Hooplehead Posted August 13, 2007 Share Posted August 13, 2007 Just got finished replacing my front brake pads, and noticed the left side rotor was "free floating" where the pins attach the rotor to the hub. Is a little play acceptable? The other side doesn't have this play. Just wanting to know if i can run it, or do I need to start looking for the pins, the rotor or the hub. thanks guys/gals! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockmeupto125 Posted August 13, 2007 Share Posted August 13, 2007 They are a floating rotor. Listen for a "crunk" sound when you push the bike backwards and apply the front brake. That or if you can detect "slop" in the rotor movement means its time to replace. "Slop" in this case I define as being able to feel space in between the parts. Could also be called "play." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hooplehead Posted August 13, 2007 Author Share Posted August 13, 2007 They are a floating rotor. Listen for a "crunk" sound when you push the bike backwards and apply the front brake. That or if you can detect "slop" in the rotor movement means its time to replace. "Slop" in this case I define as being able to feel space in between the parts. Could also be called "play." When I try to move the rotors by hand, the left side has some play, and I can hear it clicking on the pins. the right side doesn't do this. So, you are saying that I need to replace the left side? If so, will I get the rotor complete with pins and hub, or do I need to inspect to see which parts are worn? Thanks for the info, being a car mechanic for 10yrs never taught me these things. BTW, is this a dangerouse sitiuation? It is very little play, and I really would like to keep riding, but 150+mph means I need to know if this is dangerous.-Shane Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwimack Posted August 13, 2007 Share Posted August 13, 2007 I had the same problem but on both sides, I tried re squishing (highly technical term) the rivets back together got rid of the looseness but decided not to fit them and replaced the rotors. I wasn't 100% sure that what I had done was gunna work and I really need them front brakes .... a lot.......... mack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockmeupto125 Posted August 13, 2007 Share Posted August 13, 2007 If you've been a car mechanic for 10 years, apply the same princibles. If you'd replace it on a car, replace it on the bike. As with most components, a wee bit of play is acceptable, but as clearances increase, the rate of wear increases. From what you describe, I'd just keep an eye on it for now. And individual components are not available....you have to replace the entire unit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hooplehead Posted August 13, 2007 Author Share Posted August 13, 2007 excellent replies guys! I don't think it's enough for them to come loose, but I will keep an eye out for the rivets getting worn worse. I hadn't noticed any noises or any problems braking. . . yet. I'll post on the board and see if anyone's got a used one in good shape. Thanks again!! POWER TO THE FORUM!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hooplehead Posted November 19, 2007 Author Share Posted November 19, 2007 Replaced the left rotor finally. Found one used and it had nearly no play. Towards the end, I could really feel a lot of slack, and it was getting worse fast. I did find that all you have to do is give the rotor a little rap with your knuckles, and the slack will be heard as a rattle noise. This method was more audible than hitting the brakes hard while rolling backwards. i am going to assume the previous owner (200+ lbs), liked to really smash the rear brake, causing the LBS to abruptly apply only the left front, thus causing the pins to wear. Make sense to anyone else? Anyhow, thanks for all the replies. btw:I tried resquishing the pins in a highly sophisticated press, and it didn't do shit! Tried a sledge hammer, it didn't work either! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hooplehead Posted July 3, 2008 Author Share Posted July 3, 2008 Well fuck! :icon_banghead: Only 1k miles on the newer left rotor, and here's that noise again. Does anyone know if it could be the LBS causing this? I don't think my braking style is that horrible. Any advice on whether or not I should delink this girl before spending big bucks on pretty wave rotors? The brake system operates smoothly and I have fairly new pads on her. Someone please tell me what the hell is causing this, or what the hell will solve it?!!. . . .and my list of goodies continues to grow..... Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrzxxx Posted July 3, 2008 Share Posted July 3, 2008 The rotors grow with heat different than the carriers. Most of the time they are different materials. That is the reason for the pins, or buttons. Look to the race type rotor manufactors for information. I know that there are buttons that are replaceable, type. If the wear is on one part or the other or the other needs to be looked at. Only then will you know where the problem is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hooplehead Posted July 3, 2008 Author Share Posted July 3, 2008 Makes good sense about the difference in heat expansion rates. The rotors I'm having problems with are always left front (linked side), and I've only been using Honda rotors. If no one else is having this issue, maybe I just ended up replacing an old (20k?) rotor with another used one that was nearly killed. I just want some decent brakes that don't give me worries. Perhaps Honda has the specs for their rotor pins. I could always destroy my old one, and mic it to see if it's the pins or hub or rotor. Perhaps they get loose with age because of the heat cycles? I dunno, but 2 new rotors aren't cheap, and I'd totally cry after saving all that cash for naught in another 2k. I try not to destroy my brakes and I don't think I'm using too much of the front or rear. Even with the LBS, I haven't gotten lazy and started using only fronts. . .yet. I am wondering if maybe the entire setup with the swinging caliper is causing extra stress on it. Still kinda seems weird that I can't lock-up the rear tire. Ah, LBS to be or not to be, that is another question. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CxBXR Posted July 3, 2008 Share Posted July 3, 2008 2 rotors within a year does sound a bit off, do you think the "rotating" caliper bracket is bent, causing it to add stress horizontally when LBS is applied ??? Replace the left caliper ??? I to have yet too lock up my rear tire, even on a wet surface. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted July 3, 2008 Share Posted July 3, 2008 Check the pivot bearing on the left fork lower. While you're at it, check all the moving parts down there. If there's something binding when that assembly attempts to pivot, it may be damaging your rotor. Never heard of it happening before, but it's an idea. Also, are you checking the clearnace with that little feeler gauge (the one in the little sleeve on the outside of the OEM tool pouch. Yes, that's what that thing is for) when you reassemble? Exact instructions are in the manual, it's been awhile for me. BTW, the secondary cylider on the left fork actuates the rear, not the other way around. When you apply the rear brake, force is applied equally to both front discs via a hydraulic link. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hooplehead Posted July 9, 2008 Author Share Posted July 9, 2008 Check the pivot bearing on the left fork lower. While you're at it, check all the moving parts down there. If there's something binding when that assembly attempts to pivot, it may be damaging your rotor. Never heard of it happening before, but it's an idea. Also, are you checking the clearnace with that little feeler gauge (the one in the little sleeve on the outside of the OEM tool pouch. Yes, that's what that thing is for) when you reassemble? Exact instructions are in the manual, it's been awhile for me. BTW, the secondary cylider on the left fork actuates the rear, not the other way around. When you apply the rear brake, force is applied equally to both front discs via a hydraulic link. I've had all the parts apart. Everything seems in good shape. I relubed all the pivots and all the action was smooth. Didn't know about the clearance thing. I must admit, I don't reefer to the manual as much as I should. Good info on the rear actuating both rotors. . .thanks! Perhaps I am grabbing the front too hard and that's doing it. Anyhow, I am off to read the manual and find this "clearance spec" of which you speak. I'll keep everyone informed. Damn, I was hoping I wasn't the only one. . . .......................AGAIN! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fast Eddy Posted July 9, 2008 Share Posted July 9, 2008 IMHO, I would bet you replaced the bad rotor with a almost bad rotor. I would replace both with EBC pro-lites, cause that's exactly what I did when my rotors got noisy The EBC's are less expensive than the stock Honda. They are also lighter(not that you can really feel it). I would bet if you called Mike Barth @ University motors in Fargo ND and told him you are a member here he might get you a great price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hooplehead Posted July 11, 2008 Author Share Posted July 11, 2008 That is a very real possibility Eddy. I wanted to go new on both but DAMN even EBC's are expensive. You gotta pay to play, I know. REDBIRD: "BTW, the secondary cylider on the left fork actuates the rear, not the other way around. When you apply the rear brake, force is applied equally to both front discs via a hydraulic link." I found this information on a tech sheet, that may shed some light on this issue. "Operation-Enhancing Delay Valve The system also features a delay valve that smooths front brake engagement to minimize its associated dive when performing minor speed corrections using only the foot pedal. Positioned between the foot brake's master cylinder and the center pistons of the front brake calipers, the delay valve engages only the left-side front caliper at first, reducing the initial front wheel braking force by nearly half. As pedal pressure increases, the delay valve introduces pressure to the right-side front caliper, which rises to match pressure to the left-side caliper at a preset level." CBR1100spec_page.htm ^-----entire article I aint trying to argue by any means (for once), just really curious if my braking style could be the culprit, or if the brake design has something to do with it? One could always de-link it, but that wouldn't be figuring it out, now would it? Yep, it's driving me nuts, The sign of a decent mechanic: obsess until it's figured out, or the doctor says your blood pressure is too high! :icon_slap: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CxBXR Posted July 12, 2008 Share Posted July 12, 2008 The left front caliper/pad(s) has to rotate forward to engage the rear correct ? Your problem is in the left front rotor correct ? Seems to be a connection there.... I would look into the left front caliper & its operation, to make sure it isnt causing the issue..... Replace the rotor last, if it isnt causing the problem it will happen again unless you sell the bike before then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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