MileHi Posted July 20, 2007 Share Posted July 20, 2007 I cut this from an old thread of Mike's (bartonmd), this is what I experienced this last week... I'm resurrecting this thread because I experienced the EXACT same symptoms this last week at HookersXX '07. Just to validate Mike's symptoms the fluctuations would occur randomly. I would be cruising at a steady throttle and the voltage would drop down to 12.5 or less and the jump up to 13.9 stay there for a while and slowly climb up to 14.3 to 14.9 and occasionally hit 15.0 to 15.3. At one point (in stop 'n go traffic) it dropped down to about 11.6. Now that I've performed all the checks... Battery Voltage 13.6 (after being charged) and 13.04 (after running tests with the stator disconnected). The battery is holding it's voltage and I can see some recovery after it rests. Stator Continuity between the yellow wires is between .2 to .4 Current leak (Haynes manual max acceptable is .2) is 0.0. No appreciable leak Battery Charge line (Haynes test between r/w wire and ground) 13.04 (ie. battery voltage). Charging at 5k rpm... First run it was around 13.8 V. Second run it was bouncing between 13.12 and 13.8 Voltage output from stator (between any two yellow wires) averaged between 12.x and 13.x Other than the fluctuating voltage at 5k all the tests indicate a nominal charging system, yet on my trip it was giving me fits! The voltage would drop drastically at stop lights and sometimes the bike would die or run rough until the RPMs went up. So, the stator, battery and (even the) regulator appear to be fine... All the connectors are clean and there's no burning or melting. and towards the end of my trip I could occasionally smell somthing burning or cooking, but the regulator looks OK. My guess(?) is the regulator? What's the consensus? The battery is less than a year old and holds it's charge. Should I just order the R1 regulator? Also, If I get the R1 regulator do I have to tie the the two green wires together and the two red wires together? Hey Mike... If I do the R1 reg... Would you be able to make a pig tail with the two red and two green leads? Color me confused... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunedain Posted July 20, 2007 Share Posted July 20, 2007 Put an R1 rectifier on it and see what happens. I too have had the Stator, Battery, and RR within spec.....r just at the edge and it was still the RR. Ended up havin to buy two stators and an RR. You might be able to do some more investigation and find the trouble. Good Luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R1000 Posted July 20, 2007 Share Posted July 20, 2007 ...... Voltage output from stator (between any two yellow wires) averaged between 12.x and 13.x..... The stator voltage should be like 40 to 60 volts AC when the engine is above idle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airborneXX Posted July 20, 2007 Share Posted July 20, 2007 ...... Voltage output from stator (between any two yellow wires) averaged between 12.x and 13.x..... The stator voltage should be like 40 to 60 volts AC when the engine is above idle. 50 VAC minimum is what you're looking for out of the stator. My old one was pushing out 49 VAC, the new one 56 VAC. I also had one stator winding that ohmed a little higher than the rest. So check your stator output again, and plan on replacing the r/r with a R1 unit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartonmd Posted July 20, 2007 Share Posted July 20, 2007 ...... Voltage output from stator (between any two yellow wires) averaged between 12.x and 13.x..... The stator voltage should be like 40 to 60 volts AC when the engine is above idle. that's only when the R/R isn't plugged in... If you stick meter probes into the back side of the connector when the R/R is plugged in, you get signifigantly lower voltages, because it's under load, not just spinning freely... Yes, I can make it with 2 reds and 2 greens... I noticed that Josh's '01 had (2) of each of those, but Rich hacked it ALL TO SHIT when switching out charging components from his '97 to this '01, so I thought it was just how it was hacked... (to his credit, he did think it was going to the junk yard). Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R1000 Posted July 20, 2007 Share Posted July 20, 2007 ....... that's only when the R/R isn't plugged in... If you stick meter probes into the back side of the connector when the R/R is plugged in, you get signifigantly lower voltages, because it's under load, not just spinning freely... ....... Mike You are right, 50 VAC is the unloaded voltage, thanks for pointing this out :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MileHi Posted July 20, 2007 Author Share Posted July 20, 2007 ....... that's only when the R/R isn't plugged in... If you stick meter probes into the back side of the connector when the R/R is plugged in, you get signifigantly lower voltages, because it's under load, not just spinning freely... ....... Mike You are right, 50 VAC is the unloaded voltage, thanks for pointing this out :-) Well, that's a mote (at least for me) point... Itlooks like the stator is not putting out the voltage. I ordered a stator and R1 regulator from University Motors. I should get it by the end of the month. Mike, I'll contact you about the R1 plug. I might as well have you make it with the dual green and red leads. That way all the connectors on the stock harness will be used just like the OEM. Thanks for the help guys... Now I sit here and wait. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fast Eddy Posted July 25, 2007 Share Posted July 25, 2007 When checking the stator output, should you have one test probe on yellow and the other grounded or to another yellow? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartonmd Posted July 25, 2007 Share Posted July 25, 2007 When checking the stator output, should you have one test probe on yellow and the other grounded or to another yellow? Like measuring any 3-phase line, it's a phase to phase measurement... So both probes should be on yellow wires... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MileHi Posted July 28, 2007 Author Share Posted July 28, 2007 Whoo Hoo!!! The new stator and regulator are here!!! Man, University Motors is fast! Coffee, then stator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MileHi Posted July 28, 2007 Author Share Posted July 28, 2007 Stator replaced... The old unit was uniformly and completely cooked. It was a dark, dark brown to black where the three leads come out. Since I'm waiting for Mike's Yamaha plug/harness, I hooked up the original R/R and performed all the tests again. It seems that my OEM R/R is still good. So that begs the question... Do I replace it anyway ( and keep the OEM uint as a spare) or do I continue using the OEM unit (keeping the Yamaha unit as a spare)? Surprisingly the Yammie R/R is MUCH smaller than the OEM and I'll only be able to use one bolt to mount it. I'm wondering if the '99 R/R isn't the same as the later models... It's quite big with cooling fins on both sides. Once I find where my daughter has put my camera, I'll take some pictures of the stator and both R/R's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikesail Posted July 29, 2007 Share Posted July 29, 2007 I did some investigation of this a while back. From the dead regulators I've checked out the common issue is a shorting of the stator outputs. The stator most likely is never at fault, it only fails because of the R/R. Don't use a R/R that was associated with a bad stator, but the opposite is not true. A stator that looks ok and measures the same voltage on all three phases is going to be ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MileHi Posted July 29, 2007 Author Share Posted July 29, 2007 I did some investigation of this a while back. From the dead regulators I've checked out the common issue is a shorting of the stator outputs. The stator most likely is never at fault, it only fails because of the R/R. Don't use a R/R that was associated with a bad stator, but the opposite is not true. A stator that looks ok and measures the same voltage on all three phases is going to be ok. I was kinda leaning that way too... I dremel'd the short side so the second bolt at least catches the side of the Yamaha R/R... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fast Eddy Posted July 30, 2007 Share Posted July 30, 2007 I did some investigation of this a while back. From the dead regulators I've checked out the common issue is a shorting of the stator outputs. The stator most likely is never at fault, it only fails because of the R/R. Don't use a R/R that was associated with a bad stator, but the opposite is not true. A stator that looks ok and measures the same voltage on all three phases is going to be ok. I was kinda leaning that way too... I dremel'd the short side so the second bolt at least catches the side of the Yamaha R/R... I just took a drill and oblonged the holes on the R/R a little then the bolts reached. On the 97 XX I have the stock bolts weren't long enough so I stopped at the hardware store and got some button head bolts that where longer. With Mikes plug, plug and go play... done :icon_thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h2o player Posted July 30, 2007 Share Posted July 30, 2007 Take a look at my post from earlier today. I have delt with the same issues since I baught the bike. Call Eric at Electro sport. He has your solution. Pics and contact info in my other post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MileHi Posted August 10, 2007 Author Share Posted August 10, 2007 Well, I finally got around to taking a photo of the stator... I THINK it got a little toasty!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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