fredx Posted July 10, 2007 Share Posted July 10, 2007 After reading a few threads on batteries I opted for the bigger CCA battery, the Yuasa YTZ14S, over the OEM battery the YTZ12S. I was concerned they might be slightly different size. After a closer look: They are identical size. So for any of you buying a new battery, I would recommend the YTZ14S. More CCA, same size. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John01XX Posted July 11, 2007 Share Posted July 11, 2007 That is exactly what I did. I have a new 14S sitting in my living room with about 5 other new parts to get the bird back in top shape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FiXXation Posted July 11, 2007 Share Posted July 11, 2007 Since the Birds don't really take much to start in my experience, what will the additional cold cranking amps capacity buy you? Will it require the charging system to consistently put out more to keep it topped off? Is the 14 heavier than the 12? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceman_40 Posted July 11, 2007 Share Posted July 11, 2007 I've got the 14 in my bike since the spring... works great... Think it is a bit heavier than the 12 the extra cranking amps mean more power, it's always a good thing... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
runner Posted July 26, 2007 Share Posted July 26, 2007 I am runnign a new deka after using Yuasa for years & years...these have worked great in vseveral other bikes and the bird is pretty easy to crank.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBBXX Posted July 28, 2007 Share Posted July 28, 2007 Since the Birds don't really take much to start in my experience, what will the additional cold cranking amps capacity buy you? Will it require the charging system to consistently put out more to keep it topped off? Is the 14 heavier than the 12? ****This is absolutely correct**** I advise everyone to take a good look at the numbers because it may significantly increase the draw from your charging system and shorten the life of the stator and R/R instead of the other way around. marty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SR71BLACKBIRDXX Posted July 28, 2007 Share Posted July 28, 2007 Stick with the 12. Ive got the original battery in my '02 and it still cranks fine. Battery tenders are your friend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomek Posted July 28, 2007 Share Posted July 28, 2007 I`ve run them both since 14 is OEM on yzf1000r,it is basically just slightly taller. Honestly,bike is not a car,I tend not to ride in -20 F,there is no point in having extra cranking amps,plus it is havier and more expensive. On the other side if you run lots of electric/electronic gizzmos,junk,etc bigger battery might help, I would guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redxxrdr Posted July 28, 2007 Share Posted July 28, 2007 Fred, Where did you get the ytz14s? A search is fun, many advertise the yuasa battery, but actually sell a replacement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lanbrown Posted July 30, 2007 Share Posted July 30, 2007 Fred, Where did you get the ytz14s? A search is fun, many advertise the yuasa battery, but actually sell a replacement. Your local dealer can get them. That battery is also used by Triumph, Suzuki, etc. The 14 is a common battery and can be found in ATV's as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
choppertoo Posted August 28, 2007 Share Posted August 28, 2007 last week here in Phoenix there was a motorcycle run for a helicopter crash, so me and the wife went to it and about half way through the ride my gauges stoped working and right then and there i knew i was not going to make the rest of the ride. i pulled off and poured water on my RR to cool it down got a jump start. guages started to work again only for couple of miles, i was able to limp it home. in the beggining of the summer i had the same problem with the charging system so i replaced my battery, stator and RR. i got the RR from Ebay and put it on, voltage read 14vdc. the next day i rode it to work and by the time i got home the RR was cooking hot and not charging, needless to say i was stuck with the RR. after it cooled down it started charging again. my XX is a 97 with 26k miles, i would like to know what year yamaha R1 regulators you guys are using and where to get one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Para045 Posted August 29, 2007 Share Posted August 29, 2007 last week here in Phoenix there was a motorcycle run for a helicopter crash, so me and the wife went to it and about half way through the ride my gauges stopped working and right then and there i knew i was not going to make the rest of the ride. i pulled off and poured water on my RR to cool it down got a jump start. gauges started to work again only for couple of miles, i was able to limp it home. in the beginning of the summer i had the same problem with the charging system so i replaced my battery, stator and RR. i got the RR from Ebay and put it on, voltage read 14vdc. the next day i rode it to work and by the time i got home the RR was cooking hot and not charging, needless to say i was stuck with the RR. after it cooled down it started charging again. my XX is a 97 with 26k miles, i would like to know what year Yamaha R1 regulators you guys are using and where to get one. R/R died. Need a new one, but a little short on cash. Could use some help. What year XX? R1 install link You could order a reg/rec for a 99 Yamaha R1 from University motors for around $50. There are numerous posts here on the subject along with the wiring diagrams. OK, so here's the way it's going down... Just called Mike (Gary isn't in parts any more) at University Motors, and got (2) '99 R1 regs coming to me (always wanted a spare for shits, and they were like $48 each (Hell, Ron Ayres wants $64 for one), and a single Honda replacement is like $160), because this is the original (non-finned one) from '97, with 40k miles on it, so it's bound to go at some point... If that doesn't fix it, it's a stator, and I'll hit up a '99 stator to get the higher output from the later years. One question though... I've heard tell of a connector pigtail being available for the R1 units... Is there any truth in this, or what? Mike said he doesn't know of one, and if there is one, it's probably being sold after-market... Any ideas? Thanks, Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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