twodealdrive Posted May 18, 2007 Share Posted May 18, 2007 Ridin' back from Deal's Gap, I was about 25 minutes from Florence KY and I stopped for gas. I get back on, fire it up and I got the marbles in a tin can sound. I took the lifter off and re-install after winding it back up, but it did nothing. The plunger is firm, I pushed on it hard and it didn't move. It's the X-11 lifter that Vern (xrated) installed when he owned the bike. Is this sudden failure typical or should I have had a warning of some kind? The noise is on the right side, close to the clutch pack, in that area. Does it sound like the inner cam chain tensioner? I've read all the posts I could from previous questions and read something about the inner CCT. thanks for any help. Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John01XX Posted May 18, 2007 Share Posted May 18, 2007 no two cases are the same. yes it can go bad instantly or gradually. By going bad I mean that they just start making that rattle sound. Just because they rattle does not mean they are bad, just noisy. Sounds to me like you will end up buying a new one soon. Fortunately they are only $35.00 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhawkxx Posted May 18, 2007 Share Posted May 18, 2007 They make noise when they go but if I remember right, there has been no cam chain breaking or motors exploding when the cct went, just noise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John01XX Posted May 20, 2007 Share Posted May 20, 2007 They make noise when they go but if I remember right, there has been no cam chain breaking or motors exploding when the cct went, just noise. That is basically correct with one exception that I know of in Europe where it was let got for an extended period of time, over a year, and the cam chain slipped and the motor ended up locking up. But that was the exception and not the rule. I know of many who have run the CCT noisy for 1000's of miles with no problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sykotek-xx Posted May 20, 2007 Share Posted May 20, 2007 Mine was noisy when I hit about 9000 miles. I removed it and retensioned the spring. I'm now at over 13000 with no noise. EDIT - here's the link - http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?...1&hl=spring Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey Posted May 22, 2007 Share Posted May 22, 2007 I've gone through 4. 2 was gradual to the point I didn't really notice until someone pointed it out. One was over two days, and the last was instant. All of which was taken care of by a new CCT. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twodealdrive Posted May 22, 2007 Author Share Posted May 22, 2007 I've gone through 4. 2 was gradual to the point I didn't really notice until someone pointed it out. One was over two days, and the last was instant. All of which was taken care of by a new CCT. thanks for the good posts everyone, I've got a new cct coming from John. I played around with the old one, I was able to turn the adjustment screw enough to stop the clatter but the spring is just too weak to hold it for more than one rev of the engine. Hopefully the cct will arrive tomorrow, it's nice weather and gas is too expensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twodealdrive Posted May 28, 2007 Author Share Posted May 28, 2007 UPDATE got the new cct from John, I install and the sound does not go away. It sounds exactly the same as the old cct, marbles sound that's heavy at 3k and above. I'm at a loss now as to what to do, it sure sounds like the cct but if a new cct 2 green dot didn't fix it..... I tightened the adjustment screw a little inside the cct to see if that would quiet it down but it just made it stall out. There is a "tick, tick tick" sound all the time at the front of the engine but the marbles sound comes right up at 3k. Any idea's anybody? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVLXX Posted May 29, 2007 Share Posted May 29, 2007 Sadly enough... there's just to many Bad bad things that I would be guess your problem might be. My best guess... without hearing it in person would be... Sticky Lifter. That could cause a nice Ticking sound at low rpm's, then as you climb, the Lean cilynder, would be constantly predetonating and giving you the marbles sound. You might want to try running some tranny fluid in your crankcase, because trany fliud has alot of detergent in it, run it a while and see if it goes away, then drain it and put a fresh bach back in. What kind of Oil filter have you been running ? If your bypass valve is stuck open or defective, it would push crap into your lifters. I would also ask what type of oil have you been running ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrxxquad Posted May 29, 2007 Share Posted May 29, 2007 exhaust gasket blowed pair system problem Use a stick against the parts and your ear will help isolate location. I put the stick against the flap of the ear to close it off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twodealdrive Posted May 29, 2007 Author Share Posted May 29, 2007 What kind of Oil filter have you been running ? the black purolator from Adavance Auto I would also ask what type of oil have you been running ? Repsol or Castrol moto specific in full synth I may try the tranny fluid, if that doesn't work, I may take the valve cover off and see what I can see. Would measuring the vavle clearances give me any clues? I've never checked the valved before. As far as the head gasket, there doesn't seem to be coolant in the oil and my coolant level isn't down. I just closed off the pair valves this spring so I don't think that's an issue. thanks for input everybody Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVLXX Posted May 29, 2007 Share Posted May 29, 2007 As far as the head gasket, Not head gasket... Exhaust gasket. A teeny tiny little hole in the Exhaust gasket will also give you a tapping sound, as Stan suggested. He also give a great point... with the stick to the ear. That way you can really isolate where the noise is coming from without have to tear any thing down, other than maybe removing some plastic to give you and the stick some good acess. I actually have a stehiscope just for doing this. But a stick works just as good. Do that first... let us know what you hear and where... then I/we will tell you wether or not to try the Tranny fluid or something else. Goodluck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twodealdrive Posted May 29, 2007 Author Share Posted May 29, 2007 As far as the head gasket, Not head gasket... Exhaust gasket. that's what I get for trying to read posts before coffee. I've tried the stick/big screwdriver method before and that's a good reminder to get a better idea of where the sound is coming from. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R1000 Posted May 29, 2007 Share Posted May 29, 2007 As far as the head gasket, Not head gasket... Exhaust gasket. that's what I get for trying to read posts before coffee. I've tried the stick/big screwdriver method before and that's a good reminder to get a better idea of where the sound is coming from. Could the old CCT have made the chain to jump one tooth on a camshaft gear so the sound now comes from bad valve timing or even a valve slightly hitting a piston? In case you cant find any other cause, you may consider pulling the valve cover and check that the marks on the camshafts lines up with the crankshaft, which is marked on the pulse generator sprocket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrxxquad Posted May 30, 2007 Share Posted May 30, 2007 As far as the head gasket, Not head gasket... Exhaust gasket. that's what I get for trying to read posts before coffee. I've tried the stick/big screwdriver method before and that's a good reminder to get a better idea of where the sound is coming from. Could the old CCT have made the chain to jump one tooth on a camshaft gear so the sound now comes from bad valve timing or even a valve slightly hitting a piston? In case you cant find any other cause, you may consider pulling the valve cover and check that the marks on the camshafts lines up with the crankshaft, which is marked on the pulse generator sprocket. I don't think it will, barely able to get off even without the cct in, and think it would not idle if it did, jump a tooth. I have tried to roll the chain over a tooth and could not. Had to take the gear off the cam to align. There is not much room between the valve and piston that is for sure during overlap. Had a lash cap cocked during a install and held the valve open and bent a valve, but would idle and run. Just rough. You would have had to have had the cams out. I am thinking if the motor is as deivered, might be nothing. Has the motor had anything at all done to it,,,,,exhaust,,,,,valve adjustment,,,,,oil change,,,,type,,,,,In my experance these things start just after something has been done,,,,,,wrong. Had the lube changed at an avis oil change in the rear end of a truck with 30k miles and made sure they put the synthicic required,,,,,and they put motor oil in it. made it 200 miles before it started making noise. drove it home before it locked up. they, avis lube, paid for a new rear. checking the lash on the valves is a job that needs to be done to rule that out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twodealdrive Posted May 30, 2007 Author Share Posted May 30, 2007 that was my thinking on the on the cam chain jumping a tooth, pretty much impossible, although not entirely. I didn't have a chance to listen to the engine with a stick or screw driver cuz the fuel line feed hose got a hole in it from being propped up I guess. It is a '99 and a lot of the rubber bits are showing their age. Hopefully the local Honda dealers, (2) will have one in stock today. Of the 3 things you mention, only the oil had been changed and I didn change brands. Repsol before and I switched to a 5w-40 Castrol full sythn motorcycle oil. I rode over 1700 miles before this problem started. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrBadExxample Posted May 30, 2007 Share Posted May 30, 2007 Any change in this noise when the clutch lever is pulled in (clutch engaged/disengaged)? If you put the bike on the centerstand and put it in gear, does the noise change? What if you apply the rear brake while the rear wheel is spinning, does that change the noise? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SR71BLACKBIRDXX Posted May 31, 2007 Share Posted May 31, 2007 I tightened the adjustment screw a little inside the cct to see if that would quiet it down but it just made it stall out. :icon_doh: Thats not an adjustment screw!!! There is no adjusting the CCT. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twodealdrive Posted June 1, 2007 Author Share Posted June 1, 2007 Any change in this noise when the clutch lever is pulled in (clutch engaged/disengaged)? If you put the bike on the centerstand and put it in gear, does the noise change? What if you apply the rear brake while the rear wheel is spinning, does that change the noise? nope, I tried that and the noise is the same with the clutch pulled in or out. I tightened the adjustment screw a little inside the cct to see if that would quiet it down but it just made it stall out. :icon_doh: Thats not an adjustment screw!!! There is no adjusting the CCT. so what's happening when you turn the screw the opposite way of resetting the CCT plunger? It moves a little and feels like it pushes down a little on the plunger. It's my imagination? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Para045 Posted June 1, 2007 Share Posted June 1, 2007 Any change in this noise when the clutch lever is pulled in (clutch engaged/disengaged)? If you put the bike on the centerstand and put it in gear, does the noise change? What if you apply the rear brake while the rear wheel is spinning, does that change the noise? nope, I tried that and the noise is the same with the clutch pulled in or out. I tightened the adjustment screw a little inside the cct to see if that would quiet it down but it just made it stall out. :icon_doh: Thats not an adjustment screw!!! There is no adjusting the CCT. so what's happening when you turn the screw the opposite way of resetting the CCT plunger? It moves a little and feels like it pushes down a little on the plunger. It's my imagination? I think he means that the plunger is meant to be adjusted automatically via the spring tension not adjusted manually Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twodealdrive Posted June 1, 2007 Author Share Posted June 1, 2007 so what's happening when you turn the screw the opposite way of resetting the CCT plunger? It moves a little and feels like it pushes down a little on the plunger. It's my imagination? I think he means that the plunger is meant to be adjusted automatically via the spring tension not adjusted manually My comment sounded a little smart ass and I didn't mean it to, am I just imagining that the screw pushes more of the plunger out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrxxquad Posted June 1, 2007 Share Posted June 1, 2007 clock wise will extend it, counterclockwise shortens it, just like a screw would, just spring loaded, and has a ratching action to prevent anything from pushing it in but the screw. I wonder, if the notches are to large in the ratchets. I think it rattles and then the next notch picks up and it would be quiet. Screw clockwise would extend to the next notch if it could catch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twodealdrive Posted June 2, 2007 Author Share Posted June 2, 2007 thanks to everyone whose added some thoughts or ideas on this thread. I went ahead and checked the valve clearances and found I have one exhaust valve out of spec. + or - 1 from .009 on the exhaust side and this one is .007. It's cylinder 1, right ex valve. The one right next to the cam chain. If I'm not mistaken this is tight at .007. Any thoughts on this making the noise I'm hearing? Would a tight valve even make any noise? I'm thinking no. Would a broken spring in the tight valve make that rattling, metalic sound? This is the only thing I've found wrong so far. - I've checked the cam chain top and bottom and the chain and guides look good, very tight with the CCT in - looked at both cam and crank pulsars, both are in good shape - all cam lobes look good, no discoloration or scoring thanks again everbody for your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2dealdrive Posted August 17, 2007 Share Posted August 17, 2007 well the #3 big end rod bearing is shot, it sure makes a rattle sound when it first starts up. Then in goes into a tick/knock sound. Anyway, I've got everything apart and the bearing is so far gone I can't see any color on the bearing like the manual says. I was thinking of ordering all 3 sizes and plastigaging till I got the right one. Anyone have any tips on getting this right. The manual says measure the ID of the big end but without a color on the bearing I'm kinda in the dark. Any help is greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrxxquad Posted August 17, 2007 Share Posted August 17, 2007 the book talks about the letters on the crank and rods will tell you which color bearings, if i remember correctly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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