stewmg Posted April 21, 2007 Share Posted April 21, 2007 what effect would a lowering link have on the bike? :icon_think: Thanks...Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhawkxx Posted April 21, 2007 Share Posted April 21, 2007 Make the bike closer to the ground. Sorry, I couldn't help it. It does help if you are short or for drag racing. If you like the corners, you will drag things. You will have to drop the front also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stewmg Posted April 21, 2007 Author Share Posted April 21, 2007 I deserved that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironmike Posted April 22, 2007 Share Posted April 22, 2007 OK, how about a mildly serious response..? Lowering the rear via a link without lowering the forks will incrementally alter the trail, modestly enhance high speed stability, and slow turn-in a bit. If the forks are moved up through the "triple-trees" a proportionate amount, thus "lowering the front/neck" so everything is "OEM level", the trail remains as stock - but suspension travel and subsequent interference with the front fender can become an issue. There's not as much "grace space" in lowering the front as many folks think - the suspension travel of the stock forks uses almost all of what's typically available... sometimes even the addition of a fork brace presents interference problems. Consequently, lowering the front by raising the forks is possible, but not generally recommended. Rear lowering links are typically of three types: Fully adjustable (threaded rod/locknut type), Single-Drop (one position hole), and Double-Drop (two position holes). The fully adjustable type offers the broadest range of lower ride heights, but the onus is on the owner/rider know what they're doing... (Note: a well seasoned, experienced member of this board has recently had a bad experience with a link of this type - threaded rod failure/breakage). The Single-Drop type only offer a single, albeit lower, ride height (typically .75" to 1.5"). Lastly, the Double-Drop type offers two lowered heights settings, typically 1" and 3" (Note: the 3" setting is NOT recommended for XX models -all years- as it will cause rear fender interference; the 1" setting usually presents no issues). It is also worth noting that lowering links are usually longer in length than OEM links; this changes the mechanical advantage relationship of the swingarm and spring/shock assembly... In short, it makes the spring/shock assembly feel like a heavier duty version (stiffer) of the OEM assembly and slightly diminishes the overall range of rear suspension travel. Of course, some folks like that... OTOH, some like to increase the ride height by adding shims to the top of the shock mount (typically 6mm or about .25") which decreases trail and quickens turn-in a bit... to each his own. IMHO, the 'Bird is a GT, not a canyon-carver. There are better tools for different jobs. What is important is that you fit your bike to your riding style and tastes - if lowering it works for you, go for it... After all it's not like you can't change your mind and put it all back the way it was... now is it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhawkxx Posted April 22, 2007 Share Posted April 22, 2007 There's not as much "grace space" in lowering the front as many folks think You can go one inch in front without things hitting. I know because that is the way that my bike is sitting now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stewmg Posted April 23, 2007 Author Share Posted April 23, 2007 Thanks guys, I think I might have to give it a try. .. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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