Jump to content
CBR1100XX.org Forum

front right engine mount thread stripped


tgo63

Recommended Posts

Today I finished installing forks I received earlied this week from gp suspension. I went only for a short ride; the ride is nice; I rode over rail tracks that used to send the rattling shock through the bars and now it's much better. Since I also installed set of brand new tires I took it easy. At the same time I replaced stearing head bearing with the tappered one so it's difficult how much of the improvement can be attributed to the forks alone. After coming back from the ride I started installing fairings and here is my problem. I had a set of rg frame sliders installed some time ago. After many tries I succeded in fitting the spacer that goes between frame and the engine with permatex. This is the right side I describe. I had the fairing attached with the upper using two bolts. The hole I cut in lower fairing for a slider is slightly off center so I had to pull a little on the opposite edge to fit the slider assembly through the hole; it seeemed to me the thread started right way. I did not feel any unusual resistance when I tighten the bolt to 29 ft lbf as per manual. With the second click on my torque wrench the thread snapped and now I have stripped thread issue. What would be the best; heli-coil? Will I be able to repair thread in place? I'm a little pissed off with myself going through this at the very end of my maintainance project :icon_scratchhead:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Off the top of my head, I can't recall the area you're describing, but could you put a bolt all the way through the frame and put a nut on it? I'm guessing my idea would involve drilling that hole completely through the frame. I might have time tomorrow to look at this area on the bike and see if I have any other ideas.

Thats sucks though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You could put a nut there with a longer bolt i believe, the right side is not a blind hole like the left. Normally I would say to helicoil it, but i think that the frame hole will cause some difficulty in this case. Take off the gas tank and you will see the mounting tab that is stripped, and you can check the clearance for a nut. Someday when you feel like dropping the engine is the time to helicoil.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the nut of certain thickness migh work; I will look into it tomorrow.

O.K. I just checked the area moment ago; there is not much space to the front of the hole. It might work if I grind off part of the nut. Right now it looks like heli coil is the answer but I do not want to take the engine out. I have to do some research on the size of the drill needed for heli coil. I do not think it's much bigger then the hole in the frame. The bolt itself has some free space inside the frame hole.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't worry Jay, I'll be there.

I realized the most probable cause for my problem was using wrong frame slider spacer. Short goes on right side and long on the left. I kept all my parts separated as per left side and right but somehow I managed to mix them

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm lost on this one.

You put a bolt into the right side engine mount...the one on the cylinder assembly just below the cylinder head. The bolt broke off.

I'm not sure how you got from the "bolt breaking off" to "front right engine mount thread stripped."

Are we to assume you have removed the now headless threaded rod and have already examined the threads on the engine?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Joe, now I'm confused...I did not mention the bolt broke off.

The bolt I refer to is called front engine mount as per manual, it goes through the frame and then threaded hole in the engine. You can see the bolt head in the picture below

PA100019.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay, when you said the thread snapped, I was thinking of the RG bolts that are designed to break away.

What do you mean by the "second click" of the torque wrench?

Its going to be pretty difficult to put a nut on the back side of the lug on the cylinder block, because its not machined flat like the front...its at an angle in the rear.

It sounds as though either a helicoil or welding that lug up and retapping it are the best choices....both of which will require dropping the engine. For a temporary fix, I would think that a grade 8 bolt and nut with a wedge washer would be adequate.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Off the top of my head, I can't recall the area you're describing, but could you put a bolt all the way through the frame and put a nut on it? I'm guessing my idea would involve drilling that hole completely through the frame. I might have time tomorrow to look at this area on the bike and see if I have any other ideas.

Thats sucks though.

I had the same thing happen and did the above nut thing, works fine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use