wadem Posted March 31, 2007 Share Posted March 31, 2007 I have decided to buy an oem rectifier for my 2000 but am not sure which one to get. according to ronayers the part number for an 00 is 31600-MAT-E01. However a 03 is 31600-MAT-D51 from what I have heard the newer ones seems better. Will the newer one work? Will the plugs fit. My 00 has no plug in it but has 2 wireing harness coming out of it. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceman_40 Posted March 31, 2007 Share Posted March 31, 2007 Honestly if I was replacing it I'd go with a R1's Rectifier... never heard of one of them fail yet on a XX. Do a search you should find lots of info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaygermeister Posted April 1, 2007 Share Posted April 1, 2007 Honestly if I was replacing it I'd go with a R1's Rectifier... never heard of one of them fail yet on a XX. Do a search you should find lots of info. +1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wadem Posted April 2, 2007 Author Share Posted April 2, 2007 I plan on picking up and r1 rectifier too as a spare. I would like to stick with the stock one because I don't really want to start cutting wires. If my bike was a 97 or 98 the R1 rectifier would be a no brainer but my current one has no plug in it and 2 wireing harness coming out of it and sense the stock one also lasted me 5 years Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toynut Posted April 4, 2007 Share Posted April 4, 2007 The 2112-0066 Electrosport from Parts Unlimited looks like it will do the trick and it has the heat sinks and cooling fins incorporated in the design. For $100 you should solve the problem unless your battery took a hit, too. I would take a serious look at the terminal ends and wiring harness near the regulator plug just to make sure that they did not fry with the regulator or have some of the regulator leak into the connector plug. Remember, if the terminals are not perfectly clean you will not be getting the proper reference voltage back to the regulator and possibly do more damage to the battery and or electrical system. Be extra thorough and clean the socket/connections carefully. Make sure that your battery is fully charged before installing the regulator and running your electrical system. a fully charged battery in good condition should read between 13.0 and 13.2 volts on it's own. Don't short change this repair with a used regulator of dubious quality/condition. Do it right the first time. There is one on Amazon.com for $86.00 (2112-0066 Electrosport) Amazon.com: rectifr: Automotive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartonmd Posted April 4, 2007 Share Posted April 4, 2007 The 2112-0066 Electrosport from Parts Unlimited looks like it will do the trick and it has the heat sinks and cooling fins incorporated in the design. For $100 you should solve the problem unless your battery took a hit, too. I would take a serious look at the terminal ends and wiring harness near the regulator plug just to make sure that they did not fry with the regulator or have some of the regulator leak into the connector plug. Remember, if the terminals are not perfectly clean you will not be getting the proper reference voltage back to the regulator and possibly do more damage to the battery and or electrical system. Be extra thorough and clean the socket/connections carefully. Make sure that your battery is fully charged before installing the regulator and running your electrical system. a fully charged battery in good condition should read between 13.0 and 13.2 volts on it's own. Don't short change this repair with a used regulator of dubious quality/condition. Do it right the first time. There is one on Amazon.com for $86.00 (2112-0066 Electrosport) Amazon.com: rectifr: Automotive Or, you can get the REAL '99 Yamaha R1 R/R for $47 each at University Motors... I've heard worse things about aftermarket R/R's than even stock Honda ones... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wadem Posted April 4, 2007 Author Share Posted April 4, 2007 Plus the stock honda one from 2000 and up have the heatsinks as well. The only reason I wanted to avoid the R1 rectifier was to avoid cutting the wires as the 99 and up birds wireing is different than tthe 96-98. I will pick up a used R1 rectifier when I find a good deal on them and bring it with me on trips just in case Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99Birdman Posted April 5, 2007 Share Posted April 5, 2007 FWIW - I went through the same thought process when my '99 RR failed. I went with the R1 unit with the Honda as a backup for trips. The R1 regulates to a lower voltage (about 13.8 vs 14+ for the stock RR) which puts less stress on the rest of the electrics. I wanted to deal with the splicing while in the garage (instead of on the road), so I spliced the stock connector to the R1 RR. That way, if I have to use the Honda RR as a backup on the road, I don't have to deal with splicing or rework in the field - it's simply plug and play. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartonmd Posted April 5, 2007 Share Posted April 5, 2007 FWIW - I went through the same thought process when my '99 RR failed. I went with the R1 unit with the Honda as a backup for trips. The R1 regulates to a lower voltage (about 13.8 vs 14+ for the stock RR) which puts less stress on the rest of the electrics. I wanted to deal with the splicing while in the garage (instead of on the road), so I spliced the stock connector to the R1 RR. That way, if I have to use the Honda RR as a backup on the road, I don't have to deal with splicing or rework in the field - it's simply plug and play. FWIW, my new '99 R1 R/R regulates just like the stock, Honda one did... 14.2-14.3V when just riding down the road with nothing on but the low beam, and with the high beam on (65W), it's something like 13.9, and with just the low beam on, with heated gear on full, it's a steady 13.8. With electrics on, and the high beam on, it's something like 13.7V. Also, electronics don't care what the charge voltage is. The battery is the only thing that would mind the higher voltage, but then again, most cars charge in the 14.5 to 14.7 neighborhood anyway. Also, if you're running a standard healight bulb (like, anything other than HID), it doubles in brightness for every 1.5 volts, or something like that, so you'd actually be able to see the difference between 14.3 and 13.7V in the headlight brightness. Also, I got an aftermarket connector for the R1 R/R that snaps in like the stocker and everythying, and since the R1 units were $47, compared to the Honda units being in the $160 neighborhood, I just purchased (2) of them, so there is no rewiring in the field. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wadem Posted April 5, 2007 Author Share Posted April 5, 2007 I paid $84 for the stock honda one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrBadExxample Posted April 5, 2007 Share Posted April 5, 2007 I paid $84 for the stock honda one. Yeah, but that's Canadian dollars. How much is real dollars? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canadian Bird Posted April 5, 2007 Share Posted April 5, 2007 One Kanuk buck is worth .8641 cents per Yankee $. Or one Yankee $ buys $1.3364 Kanuk bucks. And gas is $1.17 cents per litre. Cheers from the GWN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartonmd Posted April 5, 2007 Share Posted April 5, 2007 I paid $84 for the stock honda one. SO... list price is $218... Ronayers price is $168 Servicehonda's price is $160 And you paid $84 for a NEW HONDA unit? Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wadem Posted April 5, 2007 Author Share Posted April 5, 2007 Sorry that was $84us or about $100cnd. Soon the cnd dollar will match the US dollar. Then we are taking over the world. lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartonmd Posted April 5, 2007 Share Posted April 5, 2007 Sorry that was $84us or about $100cnd. Soon the cnd dollar will match the US dollar. Then we are taking over the world. lol USD or Kanook money, my above post still stands... How did you pay 60% off of MSRP, and 1/2 of what the "discount" places are charging for a new Honda brand unit? Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wadem Posted April 5, 2007 Author Share Posted April 5, 2007 Got it from these guys http://www.umotorsfargo.com/ I bought a stator from them 3 weeks ago for $144. These guys also want like $47 for the R1 stator. Just to give you an idea of what parts cost up here that same stator was $490cnd and the rectifier is $190cnd. the R1 rectifier is $150cnd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartonmd Posted April 5, 2007 Share Posted April 5, 2007 Got it from these guys http://www.umotorsfargo.com/ I bought a stator from them 3 weeks ago for $144. These guys also want like $47 for the R1 stator. Just to give you an idea of what parts cost up here that same stator was $490cnd and the rectifier is $190cnd. the R1 rectifier is $150cnd Oh, OK... That's where I got my R1 R/R's also... SO I can only get ALMOST (2) R1 units ($47) there for the price of (1) Honda unit... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Jeff Posted April 7, 2007 Share Posted April 7, 2007 I put an 01 oem rectifier on my 00. It works great. It comes with a longer harness to locate it on the other side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrBadExxample Posted April 8, 2007 Share Posted April 8, 2007 I put an 01 oem rectifier on my 00. It works great. It comes with a longer harness to locate it on the other side. I'm curious, does a 2000 XX have mounting holes one the right side of the sub frame, or did you have to drill holes on the side plates of the sub frame. Either way it seems like a good idea, since the 01 R/R looks to be a heavier-duty unit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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