wadem

You need good information right now more than you need gear... Do some online searching, or better yet - visit your local library and read a few books on the subject before you start buying reloading equipment. This is not an inexpensive pastime and will demand an investment of cash and time. It's far better to be well informed (and consequently safer by an order of magnitude) if you intend to take up this hobby; it requires precision, patience, and a modest proficiency with math... but it can be very rewarding. I have downloaded a bunch of books and have started to read. I have a friend who reloads and can help me. Just try to get an idea of a price it will cost to start up. I have seen reloading kits only like this one http://cgi.ebay.ca/Lee-Anniversary-Reloadi...1QQcmdZViewItem Just want something cheap to start out on to see if I will like doing it or not.

I am looking to start reloading my own rifle ammo and was wondering if anyone has any basic reloading gear they want to get rid of for cheap. right now I have nothing so I don't really know what I need other than powder bullets and brass. thanks

Got it from these guys http://www.umotorsfargo.com/ I bought a stator from them 3 weeks ago for $144. These guys also want like $47 for the R1 stator. Just to give you an idea of what parts cost up here that same stator was $490cnd and the rectifier is $190cnd. the R1 rectifier is $150cnd

Sorry that was $84us or about $100cnd. Soon the cnd dollar will match the US dollar. Then we are taking over the world. lol

I paid $84 for the stock honda one.

Plus the stock honda one from 2000 and up have the heatsinks as well. The only reason I wanted to avoid the R1 rectifier was to avoid cutting the wires as the 99 and up birds wireing is different than tthe 96-98. I will pick up a used R1 rectifier when I find a good deal on them and bring it with me on trips just in case

I plan on picking up and r1 rectifier too as a spare. I would like to stick with the stock one because I don't really want to start cutting wires. If my bike was a 97 or 98 the R1 rectifier would be a no brainer but my current one has no plug in it and 2 wireing harness coming out of it and sense the stock one also lasted me 5 years

I have decided to buy an oem rectifier for my 2000 but am not sure which one to get. according to ronayers the part number for an 00 is 31600-MAT-E01. However a 03 is 31600-MAT-D51 from what I have heard the newer ones seems better. Will the newer one work? Will the plugs fit. My 00 has no plug in it but has 2 wireing harness coming out of it. Thanks

Just got back from thw bike shop. They tested the battery and it tested fine. They even gave me a battery they use there all the time to try and it does the same thing. The only fifferenec between the 2 are the one they gave me is a little taller (same brand yusa).

I will get the new battery tested. I only had the new battery a few months and it was kept on a battery tender the whole time.

Does anyone know if the rectifier from a 2001 r6 will work in the bird? It seems to have the same part number as the the R1

Brand new stator I put on today. So brand new stator and brand new battery doing the same thing as old stator and old battery.

I did that last year. I thought the battery was dead so I got a new one and it was doing the same thing. Then after going through the trouble shooting charts it looked to be the stator.

Forgot to mention it was a new battery. Bought it last year and never used it. I kept it on a battery tender all winter

When I check the battery when the engine is not running it is reading at 12.65

Last year my bike was not charging the battery. If I start the bike up the voltage will read 14.3v then after 20 sec or so it will start to drop. and at idle will only put out 11.8v to 12.1v if I rev it up to 4,000 rpm it only goes to 12.3v. After testing using the electrical testing print out it indicated a bad stator. So today I change out the stator for a brand new oem and I did notice some of the sheilding on some of the wires is flaking off. After starting it up again it is doing the same thing. voltage dropping after only like 20 sec. Can a bad rectifier cause this? I was under the impression that when they fail they let out too much voltage. Which year of R1 rectifier works with the least amount of moding?

The voltages went up and down like crazy. the higest I saw was 40v's but most of the time it was around 9v's testing at the stator. When doing this test the bike should be running right? Also does it matter what end of the plug you put the voltage meter test probes. Not sure I was doing this test right as I have done no electical testing before. All the wires coming out and going into the rectifier look fine no burning. On my 2000 the rectifier is very big with fins on it. Wish I had some around here with a bird I could check just to see what the number should be. I have a freind who is going to double check my work when he gets into down on the 14th

After checking the ohms using the method in the shop manual it is reading .4 The book says it should be between .5 and 2 I am going to check the voltages coming off the stator after lunch. They should be reading around 50v right? I printed the trouble shooting guide and am going to follow that.

Ok so I put a new battery in the battery tester. Hook it up to the battery and start the bike. Voltage goes up to 14.5 but after like 2 min it drops to 12.5 and ends up at like 12.1 if I rev the engine to 4 grand it only goes up to 12.38. So I guess I now need to test if it is the stator or rectifier

Yeah it is a Yusa. I was thinking about getting a better charger like a BatteryMINDer or battery tender.

After charging it and having it off the charger for about 12hrs it reads about 12.9v turning on the key drops it to like 12.3 and during starting it will go down to like 10v and shoot right back up to 14.5v once started.

My walmart charger is rated at 1.5 amps. I left it on until the light went green indicating fully charged at which point it went into maintain mode and even then left it on over night. I am going to check current leakage tmw after work. Could the charging system be putting out enough voltage and not enough current?

Just went out and checked again after 1 hour it reads 12.35 volts. So I disconnected it from the bike and it now sits on a 1.5amp automatic battery charger from walmart. This battery is brand new so from what I have read it should read around 13v. the only reason I can think for the quick drop from 12.7 to 12.35 in 1 hour would be that the battery cooled off a little. Last night before bed it was at around 13v this morning at 15c it was at 12.8 before the ride. When running the voltage seems right but I wonder if amps the bike s putting out are high enough to charge the battery.

Ok so I just got back from a 30 min ride. I check the battery and it reads 12.5v wait like 20 sec now it reads 12.6v and after another min it reads 12.7v. What is going on here? The battery in my voltmeter is dying would this cause a bad reading? When the bike is running I check the battery and it read like 14.5v. I am hopping it is just the tester. This is a veru good voltmeter paid like $100 for it.

I charged it up with a walmart brand battery charger that is like a battery tender (1.2amp at fully output then drops down when it thinks it is charged). Bike is a 2001 and I got the battery yesterday. So today I put it on a 5amp charger for like 30 min and then on a steady 1amp charger for 2 hours. Maybe the walmart charger is cutting out too early in the charging cycle.