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Regularly Needed Parts and suppliers...


EVLXX

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I need...

A new Drive Chain,

A chain Braker / installer,

a Fuel regulator,

and spark plugs.

I've done a couple dozen searches over the last few weeks, trying to come up with the best of your reviews and sorces. I've come to the conclusion either I suck at doing searches or the info I was looking for was on the system before last. ( some of you remember, the one Mr. C burned and then shot, etc etc. )

Plus as another thought, maybe if enough poeple throw in enough good info into this thread, someone could move it to the "usefull threads area" , because... well I sure would have found it usefull. Right now I feel like I'm starting from scratch.

So what are you useing, what's the best (performance and wear), and where should I get it from ?

Thanks in advance.

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For the chain, sprockets if necessary, and breaker, check out White Buffalo Racing

Fuel Regulator is an OEM Part.. Talk to Mike Barth out at University Motors, Fargo While you're at it, ask them to send you a few OEM oil filters and and air filter and save on shipping.

You should ask him for prices on plugs, too, but I'd also talk to your auto parts store, and see if they can order them for you. My local parts store doesn't stock them, but will order them and it's considerably cheaper than buying from either a dealer or an cycle parts place.

PM me your addy, you can borrow my chain tool.

Fucker.. I was gonna send him a PM and suggest that he could borrow mine, too. :icon_biggrin:

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You can use one of the online part number crossovers and convert the NGK number printed on the plug into a 4 digit number to be used at a car parts store. The stores have access to this info, but some can be a PITA to work with. Oreilly stocks the NGK plug around here in both iridium and regular platinum.

Ditto on the White Buffalo Racing for the chain. As far as tools go, my chain breaker is called a die grinder!

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Thanks for the offer guys.... and I might take one.... or both of you up on that.

About the chain itself.... I think my searches had me believing D.I.D. was the prefferd choice around here. But I'm more concerned with chain life rather than gold plates. So am I to understand that the D.I.D. will also last me the longest as well ?

What brand of chain braker you guys got ? I'm thinking I might want to still buy one at some point in time, what's the best / easiest to use, etc ?

And as for sprockets.... I have a heck of a time finding a 44 rear. I think the last time I had to buy it from either Dennis Kirk or Chapparral, and haven't found another supplier since, that sells steal rears in that size.

:icon_biggrin:

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The XX rear sprocket fits a couple other bikes.

Give White Buffalo a call, they should be able to hook you up.

The DID chain happens to be gold. I think most folks here buy it because it has a history of good performance. There are other manufacturers that make high-end chains....RK and Tsubaki come to mind....we just seem to be sold on the DID because we know how it works.

Motion Pro and DID make chain riveters. White Buffalo has them also. Cut your chain off with a cutting tool rather than stressing the riveter with that task.

You'll need a new front sprocket as well unless you've just recently changed yours. They are not that expensive. 16, 17, or 18 tooth all can use the 110 link chain. Of course, if you are dropping a tooth in the rear, that negates that. Remember, one tooth on the front is the same as three on the rear.

Why do you need a fuel regulator?

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The XX rear sprocket fits a couple other bikes.

Give White Buffalo a call, they should be able to hook you up.

The DID chain happens to be gold. I think most folks here buy it because it has a history of good performance. There are other manufacturers that make high-end chains....RK and Tsubaki come to mind....we just seem to be sold on the DID because we know how it works.

Motion Pro and DID make chain riveters. White Buffalo has them also. Cut your chain off with a cutting tool rather than stressing the riveter with that task.

You'll need a new front sprocket as well unless you've just recently changed yours. They are not that expensive. 16, 17, or 18 tooth all can use the 110 link chain. Of course, if you are dropping a tooth in the rear, that negates that. Remember, one tooth on the front is the same as three on the rear.

Why do you need a fuel regulator?

I've seen the add for an RK chain... supposed to be good for the 14,000 cc'ers. But haven't heard any review on them.

Dropping 1 on the rear so that my combo is a 17/44 corrects the odometer to about 0.4%, And since I really don't care about my speedometer being perfect or the minimal power loss, I like that combo for Knowing how far I really traveled, whithout haveing to do any corrective math. :icon_biggrin:

As for the Regulator, well, the bike ran like dog do-do the last time I fired it up, and since I know what ethanol does to those rubber thingies....... I figured I might as well changes it before I have a major problem.

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Rating a chain based on engine size, which so many of the manufacturers do, is decidedly a disservice to those who might be a bit more technically minded.

Its comparable to a salesman assessing what motorcycle you need when you walk into the showroom based on your age. He's probably often correct, but occasionally not.

Obviously, the chain rated for the greatest displacement can be expected to last the longest, whether you have a 14 or a CB350. And when you have a grand old hyperbike like the XX, or a busa, ZZR, or whatever, you're already near the upper end anyway. But there are many options available that will do the job suitably. Do you use grade 8 bolts in all your applications? Umm...no. So why pay for what you don't need?

Chains should be rated for tensile strength, not engine displacement. Hell, using that formula, Northman needs a stronger chain than elixxir, because he has more displacement. But people look at that engine displacement thing, and take it as gospel. I suppose if they do, it only comments on their knowledge level....but it still gripes me.

Okay, I'm done. Go call White Buffalo, tell them we sent you, and buy a bunch of stuff.

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I'm running an EK chain, and it's suffered an incredible amount of abuse, while still working well, even at 20K miles.

It's their highest-rated chain, and I'll install another one when the time comes.

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I'm running an EK-ZZZ chain now. It's rated even higher than the one Chris is using. I'm hoping it lasts forever with the Pro-Oiler. :icon_biggrin: It's also nice to get the spacers that prevent you from over-crimping the rivets.

Parts411 used to have the best prices on this chain, but I don't see it on their web site now.

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Rating a chain based on engine size, which so many of the manufacturers do, is decidedly a disservice to those who might be a bit more technically minded.

Its comparable to a salesman assessing what motorcycle you need when you walk into the showroom based on your age. He's probably often correct, but occasionally not.

Obviously, the chain rated for the greatest displacement can be expected to last the longest, whether you have a 14 or a CB350. And when you have a grand old hyperbike like the XX, or a busa, ZZR, or whatever, you're already near the upper end anyway. But there are many options available that will do the job suitably. Do you use grade 8 bolts in all your applications? Umm...no. So why pay for what you don't need?

Chains should be rated for tensile strength, not engine displacement. Hell, using that formula, Northman needs a stronger chain than elixxir, because he has more displacement. But people look at that engine displacement thing, and take it as gospel. I suppose if they do, it only comments on their knowledge level....but it still gripes me.

Okay, I'm done. Go call White Buffalo, tell them we sent you, and buy a bunch of stuff.

Joe, I totally agree with you on the chain specs, why manufactures don't list cold hard facts is beyound me.

As for the White Buffalo, and buy a Bunch of stuff....... so i'm to understand they give us a great deal. O.K.

I'm running an EK-ZZZ chain now. It's rated even higher than the one Chris is using. I'm hoping it lasts forever with the Pro-Oiler. :icon_biggrin: It's also nice to get the spacers that prevent you from over-crimping the rivets.

Parts411 used to have the best prices on this chain, but I don't see it on their web site now.

Ah-ha.... that what I was looking for. Someone had stated in another thread somewhere, that they were using a ZZZ chain, and I couldn't find what brand it was. So thanks.

Now for another question... how's it holding up ? and does it come it Black or plian metal ? I can't stand those colored chains, every time I see one off colored from the bike................... well I just think it stupid. (kinda like someone walking around with a colored straw hanging out his butt. Then I imagine the guy saying something like " look at my Gold Straw... isn't it Cooooooooool.")

And which is the best Chain Breaker ? Toughest... easiest to use, etc ?

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My ZZZ chain has about 5000 miles on it and looks brand new. Mine has sliver side plates, but I think other colors are available. I have a Motion Pro chain tool kit, (the one in the grey plastic box). It works OK, but I'd rate it as a hobby grade tool. There are several tougher looking tools out there. I think Motion Pro, RK, DID and others make some good ones, but I've never tried them.

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I guess there are various tensile strengths published, but the DID link on White Buff's web site lists its tensile strength as 10,400.

DID Chart

The EK site shows a tensile strength of 11,000 if it makes a difference to you.

EK page

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With regards to which tools, etc, I've got both the RK Chain Tool and the Motion Pro tool.

Both get the job done. I lost the rivet set on the Motion Pro, and there's no way to order a replacement. On the RK, the end that pushes out the pin when breaking the chain bent. Fortunately, I was able to pick up a working replacement at the local hardware store by finding the right size Allen wrench and cutting it to fit.

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My ZZZ chain has ...

The EK website does not say the ZZZ is an O-ring chain...... ???

Is it an O-ring type chain or not ?

And does anybody know the NGK number for the spark plugs off the top of there head ?

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Yes. The EK-ZZZ is an o-ring type chain. I think they call their o-ring and x-ring and claim it's better.

I think you have a '99 right? The proper plug from the NGK web site is part number CR9EHIX-9. Your auto parts store will probably want the stock number. It is 6216. Here's a link.

NGK Site

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The EK ZZZ chains is ordered,

RK tool is ordered,

Tires ordered, Road R, Power F,

Sprocteks ordered,

Plugs ordered,

now all I gotta do is go to the Dealer for that other thingy.

Thanks for all yours inputs. :icon_biggrin:

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Enjoy Eric. Will we see you at OzarXX?

Well..................

Considering how much I truely enjoy that event and seeing everybody again, including you slow-poke, I would love to say Yes, but....

This next year and all Vacations are still completely up in the Air. I honestly don't have any plans other than going Camping with the family several times.

Although I do have plans on building my own reciever hitch for our G35. Which was for the purpose of making the commute to the OzarXX and bringing the Wife along that much easier. So.........

Only time will tell.

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Although I do have plans on building my own reciever hitch for our G35. Which was for the purpose of making the commute to the OzarXX and bringing the Wife along that much easier. So.........

Well shit, get to welding bitch. Fuel injection discussions won't be the same without you there!

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