XXTi Posted February 15, 2007 Share Posted February 15, 2007 Enjoy Eric. Will we see you at OzarXX? Well.................. Considering how much I truely enjoy that event and seeing everybody again, including you slow-poke, I would love to say Yes, but.... I'll start practicing so I can try to keep up this year. Like Byrdman said, get to welding! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVLXX Posted February 15, 2007 Author Share Posted February 15, 2007 Although I do have plans on building my own reciever hitch for our G35. Which was for the purpose of making the commute to the OzarXX and bringing the Wife along that much easier. So......... Well shit, get to welding bitch. Fuel injection discussions won't be the same without you there! :icon_shifty: ..... Oh ya.... Fuel injection and all that stuff..... Which reminds me..... did you ever get yours figured out ??? Enjoy Eric. Will we see you at OzarXX? Well.................. Considering how much I truely enjoy that event and seeing everybody again, including you slow-poke, I would love to say Yes, but.... I'll start practicing so I can try to keep up this year. Like Byrdman said, get to welding! Well first I have to convince the Wife she needs to go with me..... so she'll let me put it on Our "Her" car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVLXX Posted February 16, 2007 Author Share Posted February 16, 2007 Thingy Ordered, from Ron Ayers... The Fuel Pressure Regulator part number is 16740-MAT-EO2 and was $39.46 + $8 shipping. Still cheaper than the Local Stealers cost of $52.99 plus tax. Joe, I think I neglected to give you a real good reason for my needing the fuel reg. The other day I went out to run the bike. It started and was running for about 15 seconds then died. I thought it was just from the cold at first, although it's never had a problem before, so I tried it again. This time however I kept my eye on the Air fuel ratio gauge I have and watched it go from a normal choke reading of about 11.5:1 and slowly climb in Richnes until it died again with the needle below 10:1. I seamed to remember ready that a few poeple on the board had a similar problem with there bikes running overly Rich, whereas they concluded it was the Fuel Reg. So that coupled with my readings, and the knowledge of our heavily Ethanol fuels and it's effects on rubber parts. Lead me to my decission to just go ahead and change the part. I've had to change every fuel system rubber part on almost every vehicle I've had over the last 10 years, from Pumps to Hoses. In fact I have to change the rubber Fuel lines on my truck every 5 years, because of the crap. So I just figured rather than getting stuck somewhere in the middle of knowwhere.... I might as well just do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedygeezer Posted February 18, 2007 Share Posted February 18, 2007 This may be common knowledge, but, when talking chains, make sure it is a 530 - regardless of brand. I tried a 520 and it was junk in 8K miles...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVLXX Posted February 18, 2007 Author Share Posted February 18, 2007 Yep, it's a ZZZ-530. Cost was like $229 and another $8.99 for the rivet master link, from a local supplier, who had to order it from Parts Unlimited I believe. I sure hope that extra $40 was worth it.... only time will tell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartonmd Posted February 18, 2007 Share Posted February 18, 2007 So that coupled with my readings, and the knowledge of our heavily Ethanol fuels and it's effects on rubber parts. Lead me to my decission to just go ahead and change the part. I've had to change every fuel system rubber part on almost every vehicle I've had over the last 10 years, from Pumps to Hoses. In fact I have to change the rubber Fuel lines on my truck every 5 years, because of the crap. So I just figured rather than getting stuck somewhere in the middle of knowwhere.... I might as well just do it. NO SHIT! I had to replace the 2" rubber line on my Caprice, that goes from the fuel pump to the in-tank hard line, because of that shit... It was all dried out, cracked, and erroded down to nothing on the INSIDE of the middle! Hell, that sucks even more than a fuel pump failure! This failed when I was just rolling down the road, and I had to pull over! When a fuel pump dies, it's almost always because it won't restart when you turn the vehicle back on, so there's like a 50/50 chance you'll be at home when it goes... Hell, even if you're not at home, I've usually been able to get another start or (2) on a dead fuel pump by beating on the bottom of the fuel tank with my fist... No such luck with a hole in an in-tank fuel line... Just because the car has ~90k on it, I went ahead and replaced the pump anyway... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XXTi Posted February 18, 2007 Share Posted February 18, 2007 Yep, it's a ZZZ-530. Cost was like $229 and another $8.99 for the rivet master link, from a local supplier, who had to order it from Parts Unlimited I believe. I sure hope that extra $40 was worth it.... only time will tell. Wow. It looks like the price went up since I got mine. I think I paid about $180 for mine, but I don't remember for sure. I'll bet the extra $ will be worth it. BTW, my ZZZ came with a rivet master link in the box. Didn't you get one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tgo63 Posted February 18, 2007 Share Posted February 18, 2007 One of the best price I've seen for ek chain is schnitz racing. EK530ZZZ gold is $174.95 includes one rivet master link. Shipping is $8.05 linky In my case DID lasted longer then EK 530zvx but it was more due to proper tension, lubrication then particular brand. I do not think we have to worry too much about small difference in tensile strenght.More important is to have chain properly installed. Sparkplugs, I just changed them yesterday, ordered from sparkplugs.com. Below is my order info, 10% discountcode found on one of mopar forums. Just google for 'sparkplugs.com discount' rightnow I do not see any. irtitan expired january 27 Following is a summary of your order: 4 - NGK Iridium plug Stock Number: 6966 Part Number: IMR9A-9H Unit Price: $11.71 Extended Price: $46.84 Subtotal: $46.84 Discount: $4.68 Tax: $0.00 Shipping & Handling: $8.20 (UPS Ground) Total: $50.36 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XXTi Posted February 18, 2007 Share Posted February 18, 2007 You might check your local auto parts store next time Tom. They can get any of the NGK products and they are usually cheaper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tgo63 Posted February 18, 2007 Share Posted February 18, 2007 I'll do it next time Jim, thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVLXX Posted February 19, 2007 Author Share Posted February 19, 2007 So that coupled with my readings, and the knowledge of our heavily Ethanol fuels and it's effects on rubber parts. Lead me to my decission to just go ahead and change the part. I've had to change every fuel system rubber part on almost every vehicle I've had over the last 10 years, from Pumps to Hoses. In fact I have to change the rubber Fuel lines on my truck every 5 years, because of the crap. So I just figured rather than getting stuck somewhere in the middle of knowwhere.... I might as well just do it. NO SHIT! I had to replace the 2" rubber line on my Caprice, that goes from the fuel pump to the in-tank hard line, because of that shit... It was all dried out, cracked, and erroded down to nothing on the INSIDE of the middle! Hell, that sucks even more than a fuel pump failure! This failed when I was just rolling down the road, and I had to pull over! When a fuel pump dies, it's almost always because it won't restart when you turn the vehicle back on, so there's like a 50/50 chance you'll be at home when it goes... Hell, even if you're not at home, I've usually been able to get another start or (2) on a dead fuel pump by beating on the bottom of the fuel tank with my fist... No such luck with a hole in an in-tank fuel line... Just because the car has ~90k on it, I went ahead and replaced the pump anyway... Mike Yep... this Ethanol in the fuel is going to start costing poeple a Hole big Fuckload more than just a few cents a gallon. But hey...... we're helping to protect the environment right !?*..... na, it's all about the money. Yep, it's a ZZZ-530. Cost was like $229 and another $8.99 for the rivet master link, from a local supplier, who had to order it from Parts Unlimited I believe. I sure hope that extra $40 was worth it.... only time will tell. Wow. It looks like the price went up since I got mine. I think I paid about $180 for mine, but I don't remember for sure. I'll bet the extra $ will be worth it. BTW, my ZZZ came with a rivet master link in the box. Didn't you get one? Well I haven't got mine yet, it's still shipping. But I order the extra link just in case it didn't come with one... I figured better safe than sorry. One of the best price I've seen for ek chain is schnitz racing. EK530ZZZ gold is $174.95 includes one rivet master link. Shipping is $8.05 linky In my case DID lasted longer then EK 530zvx but it was more due to proper tension, lubrication then particular brand. I do not think we have to worry too much about small difference in tensile strenght.More important is to have chain properly installed. Sparkplugs, I just changed them yesterday, ordered from sparkplugs.com. Below is my order info, 10% discountcode found on one of mopar forums. Just google for 'sparkplugs.com discount' rightnow I do not see any. irtitan expired january 27 Following is a summary of your order: 4 - NGK Iridium plug Stock Number: 6966 Part Number: IMR9A-9H Unit Price: $11.71 Extended Price: $46.84 Subtotal: $46.84 Discount: $4.68 Tax: $0.00 Shipping & Handling: $8.20 (UPS Ground) Total: $50.36 OH....... Ya Fucking Jerk ! Where were you 3 days ago with that Linky. Fucking Jerk! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tgo63 Posted February 19, 2007 Share Posted February 19, 2007 Sorry Eric I hate myself buying something and see the same item at the lower price after the fact. Here is the link to my original post about schnitzracing.com linky If I saw your post earlier I would not let you pay over $200 for a chain. Note to admin; we should have a special section for vendors with lowest prices for popular items: tires, chains, sparkplugs, lightbulbs, brake pads, oem parts, etc...I know we have 'useful products links' section but it is growing quite fast with so many posts and it becomes difficult to find information. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVLXX Posted February 19, 2007 Author Share Posted February 19, 2007 Oh, I wasn't serious, hence the "Razzing" imoticon on the end. It just figures, my luck is to always find something better.... after I've spent my money. No biggy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Para045 Posted February 21, 2007 Share Posted February 21, 2007 Yes. The EK-ZZZ is an o-ring type chain. I think they call their o-ring and x-ring and claim it's better. I think you have a '99 right? The proper plug from the NGK web site is part number CR9EHIX-9. Your auto parts store will probably want the stock number. It is 6216. Here's a link. NGK Site I just changed my plugs today on my 98 XX with a set I got from the PO when I bought the bike and they were NGK CR9EHIX-9 Iridium, yet the manual and Warchilds site says NGK CR9EHVX-9 and TGO63 says IMR9A-9H . Is it right that the CR9EHVX-9 is a superceded plug or did I have the wrong plugs, the link to the NGK site listed the CR9EHIX-9 as being the plug for the 2000-97 XX so which is correct the site or the manual. BTW the plugs that came out were CR9EHIX-9 as well Also on a side note when I stripped the tank etc off the bike to do the plugs as per the instructions I found on Warchilds site I noticed that there was no Pair valve and thet there were castings in the top of the rocker cover but no reeds or covers and in fact no holes through the cover at all :icon_think: Is it that the pre FI bikes did not have pair valves ( except cal bikes :icon_think: ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northman Posted February 21, 2007 Share Posted February 21, 2007 they were NGK CR9EHIX-9 Iridium, yet the manual and Warchilds site says NGK CR9EHVX-9 and TGO63 says IMR9A-9H The original plugs for the application were CR9EHVX-9 (platinum), which were superceded by NGK to CR9EHIX-9 (iridium). Either plug is correct for the application. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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