Canadian Bird Posted October 22, 2006 Share Posted October 22, 2006 I have 100,200 kms, and used Amsoil, now Motul Semi, what should I looke for re my engine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartonmd Posted October 22, 2006 Share Posted October 22, 2006 Let's see. $12/qt for Amsoil and let's be generous and give it a 10K change interval with a filter change at 5K. That's $68/10K miles or $272 at 40K when you are due for another $68 change. I pay $12/gallon for Shell Rotella 15w40 at my local NAPA and get a filter there for $5. Change oil at 5K miles, so, at the end of 40K, I'll have spent $68 and be due for another $17 change. I can't imagine my engine showing any more wear using an oil designed for heavy duty applications. I could be wrong though, I'll let you know in a couple of years when I have over 100K on it. MSRP from Amsoil is like$8.50/qt... And the Rotella synthetic is one of the "synthetics" that got through the loop-hole of being a highly refined dino oil that can call itself synthetic, whereas M1 and Amsoil are both from synthetic base stocks. Don't get me wrong, I use Rotella synthetic in a couple of my cars, and it seems to do fine, and have used it in the bike, but it's not REALLY the same... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVLXX Posted October 22, 2006 Share Posted October 22, 2006 This is my point... all typed out... thanks Ed. Let's see. $12/qt for Amsoil and let's be generous and give it a 10K change interval with a filter change at 5K. That's $68/10K miles or $272 at 40K when you are due for another $68 change. I pay $12/gallon for Shell Rotella 15w40 at my local NAPA and get a filter there for $5. Change oil at 5K miles, so, at the end of 40K, I'll have spent $68 and be due for another $17 change. I can't imagine my engine showing any more wear using an oil designed for heavy duty applications. I could be wrong though, I'll let you know in a couple of years when I have over 100K on it. And.... as smart as everyone around here is.... Doesn't it seem odd that.... HONDA recomends changeing the Oil every 8,000 miles...... ( Page 3-3 of the service manual )... I suppose you've got some hard data somewhere that proves the need for changing every 3-5 K contrary to what the Honda Engineers recommend. I also don't believe that they planned on everybody running around at the speed limit all the time, or Babying there engines. Maybe that's why the Bird has 4 quarts of oil per Liter of motor and My Truck has 4 quarts per every 5 liters of motor. I know old habits are hard to break, but..... com-on. I change my Oil every 10,000 miles or 1 year.... and I run Mobil 1, and my last oil change cost $23. heck... I should probably only change my Oil every 15K or 1year..... but Like I said old habits are hard to break and that little voice in my head starts scaring me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartonmd Posted October 22, 2006 Share Posted October 22, 2006 This is my point... all typed out... thanks Ed. Let's see. $12/qt for Amsoil and let's be generous and give it a 10K change interval with a filter change at 5K. That's $68/10K miles or $272 at 40K when you are due for another $68 change. I pay $12/gallon for Shell Rotella 15w40 at my local NAPA and get a filter there for $5. Change oil at 5K miles, so, at the end of 40K, I'll have spent $68 and be due for another $17 change. I can't imagine my engine showing any more wear using an oil designed for heavy duty applications. I could be wrong though, I'll let you know in a couple of years when I have over 100K on it. And.... as smart as everyone around here is.... Doesn't it seem odd that.... HONDA recomends changeing the Oil every 8,000 miles...... ( Page 3-3 of the service manual )... I suppose you've got some hard data somewhere that proves the need for changing every 3-5 K contrary to what the Honda Engineers recommend. I also don't believe that they planned on everybody running around at the speed limit all the time, or Babying there engines. Maybe that's why the Bird has 4 quarts of oil per Liter of motor and My Truck has 4 quarts per every 5 liters of motor. I know old habits are hard to break, but..... com-on. I change my Oil every 10,000 miles or 1 year.... and I run Mobil 1, and my last oil change cost $23. heck... I should probably only change my Oil every 15K or 1year..... but Like I said old habits are hard to break and that little voice in my head starts scaring me. Yep... I just did an oil analysis on the MX4T that was in my 'bird for 10,000 miles, and the viscosity was still good, and the TBN was 6.7 still, so the oil was really only about half used up at 10,000 miles... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVLXX Posted October 22, 2006 Share Posted October 22, 2006 Yep... I just did an oil analysis on the MX4T that was in my 'bird for 10,000 miles, and the viscosity was still good, and the TBN was 6.7 still, so the oil was really only about half used up at 10,000 miles... Mike Hey... do you still have the print-out on that test ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartonmd Posted October 22, 2006 Share Posted October 22, 2006 Yep... I just did an oil analysis on the MX4T that was in my 'bird for 10,000 miles, and the viscosity was still good, and the TBN was 6.7 still, so the oil was really only about half used up at 10,000 miles... Mike Hey... do you still have the print-out on that test ? Yes, I have 2 of them, actually...although I'd have to find the other one... somewhere... Everything was good other than the silica and subsuquent aluminum in the oil were a bit high... The bearing materials, cam/crank, and ring materials and everything looked very good, so we're thinking it may have just been that these engines are sand-cast, and if an unfinished piece of the gasting gets worn away (like around the cam chain, if it hit the case or something... have been starting to hear the CCT again...), you will find both silica (sand) and aluminum in the oil from it... I'm about to do an analysis at 2000 miles with this oil to make sure it's not a larger problem, but rather, just an isolated thing... Also, since the pistons, heads, and cylinder walls on this engine are aluminum, and I have a K&N air filter, and did a bunch of riding in dusty conditions (like the 5 miles of DUSTY gravel road we went down while exploring at NeXXt in this last OCI), it the silica could have gotten through the filter (K&N's are not known for filtering well) and caused some wear in the intake and cylinder walls. We will see though... Actually, it turned out that I shouldn't have done an extended drain interval on the last one I did, because the bearing and ring metals were high, and were causing the oil to be abrasive, because at 10,000 miles when put that oil in, the engine was not completely broken in, so I had to do (2) 3000 mile OCI's to get the break-in materials out of the engine, and then did this 10k OCI, in which all of those materials were down at "normal" levels... I'll try and post it up on Monday... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shovelstrokeed Posted October 22, 2006 Share Posted October 22, 2006 And the Rotella synthetic is one of the "synthetics" that got through the loop-hole of being a highly refined dino oil that can call itself synthetic, whereas M1 and Amsoil are both from synthetic base stocks. Don't get me wrong, I use Rotella synthetic in a couple of my cars, and it seems to do fine, and have used it in the bike, but it's not REALLY the same... Mike Mike, I never mentioned the synthetic. I use the dino version. I really don't see any need for a synthetic oil in my bike even though it does get hot down here. I got turned on to the stuff by a friend who runs a fleet of vehicles from lawn mowers to big excavators. Same oil in all his stuff and never a breakdown related to oil. He actually buys it by the 55 gallon drum as there are about 50 vehicles in his fleet. In a pinch, I just head over to his shop and change the oil there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartonmd Posted October 22, 2006 Share Posted October 22, 2006 And the Rotella synthetic is one of the "synthetics" that got through the loop-hole of being a highly refined dino oil that can call itself synthetic, whereas M1 and Amsoil are both from synthetic base stocks. Don't get me wrong, I use Rotella synthetic in a couple of my cars, and it seems to do fine, and have used it in the bike, but it's not REALLY the same... Mike Mike, I never mentioned the synthetic. I use the dino version. I really don't see any need for a synthetic oil in my bike even though it does get hot down here. I got turned on to the stuff by a friend who runs a fleet of vehicles from lawn mowers to big excavators. Same oil in all his stuff and never a breakdown related to oil. He actually buys it by the 55 gallon drum as there are about 50 vehicles in his fleet. In a pinch, I just head over to his shop and change the oil there. Sorry, reading comprehention... You typed 15w40, and I saw 5w40... Either way, still good oil... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverbird1100 Posted October 23, 2006 Author Share Posted October 23, 2006 This was never meant to be an oil thread, we're not going to convince each other of anything. I'm pissed about unethical pricing nothing more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartonmd Posted October 23, 2006 Share Posted October 23, 2006 This was never meant to be an oil thread, we're not going to convince each other of anything. I'm pissed about unethical pricing nothing more. you mean your dealer charging $4 over MSRP on Amsoil's website? Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted October 24, 2006 Share Posted October 24, 2006 Well, AMSOIL finally replied. Thank you for contacting AMSOIL with your concerns. In response to your inquiry, we have never recommended 50,000 mile oil drains, except with the use of the ByPass filter and oil analysis, and then only if analysis showed the oil was still suitable for continued use. Motorcycle Manufacturers now recommend against gasoline fueled engine oils in bikes, due to the use of wet clutches in most of them. They prefer a non-friction modified oil like our Motorcycle Oil. There is a real difference between car oil and motorcycle oil! Thank you again for the opportunity to respond to your concerns. As always, please feel free to contact us again if we can be of further assistance. Sincerely, Byron Selbrede AMSOIL Technical Service The Accuracy of this e-mail response is dependent upon the information provided. AMSOIL INC. is not responsible for wrong recommendations that were based on inaccurate or incomplete information I know this is bull because I carefully read their site and promotions before I bought the product. Extended oil drain intervals were part of all the sales hype. More so, their regular motor oil had no friction modifiers and was wet clutch compatable (of course, most off the shelf oils are wet clutch compatable anyhow). So, either this person is clueless about what AMSOIL used to promote or he's lying. If they didn't change the composition of their product, I suspect they decided to disavow their prior claims to avoid lawsuits. Ah, from AMSOIL's own site....they're now only saying 25,000 miles/1 year. AMSOIL has recommended 25,000 mile/one year drain intervals since 1972. AMSOIL delivers the highest quality lubricants on the market. It’s the AMSOIL identity, and it’s what customers expect. Al Amatuzio coined the phrase “extended drain interval,” and from the beginning, AMSOIL synthetic motor oils have been formulated for extended drain intervals. http://www.amsoil.com/articlespr/2005/arti...exxonmobil.aspx Fortunately, I still haven't put more than 25,000 on either the truck or the bike in a year. On that same site, they now warranty most products with that limit. Earlier, there was no warranty per se. It was just their claim about being able to go 50,000 miles or 1 year on an oil change. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartonmd Posted October 24, 2006 Share Posted October 24, 2006 More so, their regular motor oil had no friction modifiers and was wet clutch compatable (of course, most off the shelf oils are wet clutch compatable anyhow). Not now days... Anything that says "energy conserving" on it is not wet clutch compatible... now days, that's pretty much anything except some diesel oils... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrxxquad Posted October 24, 2006 Share Posted October 24, 2006 I have been running amsoil for 20 years at 25,000 with bypass. Never seen more or heard otherwise. Without bypass run 6,000. No reason just see color change. Buy direct. No fee. Buy once a year, for the year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davesXX01 Posted October 26, 2006 Share Posted October 26, 2006 Ha, went to my local Bumper to Bumper today and noticed they had the newer stuff on the shelf (red, white and blue lable) at the old 5.99 price,,,, bought a case of it then informed the manager (a friend) about the price increase, he grabbed the price sheet and almost cried I'm set for the next 3 years! DAve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted October 26, 2006 Share Posted October 26, 2006 Ha, went to my local Bumper to Bumper today and noticed they had the newer stuff on the shelf (red, white and blue lable) at the old 5.99 price,,,, bought a case of it then informed the manager (a friend) about the price increase, he grabbed the price sheet and almost cried I'm set for the next 3 years! DAve Thank you for letting us share in the victory of your hunting expedition. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.