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Is this normal?


Aurora

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2003 XX

Conditions:

Bike 100% stock

Outside air temp 102 degrees F.

Oil and filter new Honda.

Drive chain is adjusted to 7/8 inches with bike on center stand.

When the bike is cold; it will first idle at 1200 RPM. After its warm idle speed is 1100 RPM with a variation of +- 50 RPM. After a little warn up the bike is smooth no surging in neutral at any RPM thye same when riding.

After the bike is warm 190 to 217 dergees the bike surges or bucks in first gear say 15 mph. Holding clutch in or in neutral the following is observed: At idle there isn't a pure smooth sound or idle it varyies a little. now say at a speed above idle, holding a steady throttle setting the engine RPM varies a few hundred RPM, say 300-400 RPM. The bike runs smooth at speed above 3300 RPM. The bike is extremely smooth at 90 MPH. I feel a little buzzing in the handle bars at 40 to 70 MPH. Then again I came off an Electra Glide with rubber mounted engine and handle bars. The tires are the factory Bridgestones. The bike has 4400 total miles. But at slower speed I swear I can feel the pistons traveling up and down their bores. Then again I fly for a living and am hyper sensitive to the motions of equipment.

Is all of this normal? No high speed idle when the engine is cold even though the outside air temperature is 100 degrees? How about the first gear bucking or surging at parking lot speeds? Buzz in the handle bars? Engine litely hunting not dead nuts steady at idle RPM? Engine hunting for RPM at higher RPMs?

I would appreciate some honest feed back.

Thank you,

Bob

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If the bucking you're talking about is when you put it in gear with clutch in- then that's normal at cooler temps. The idle problems, I don't know about. Yours is FI, my carby does that sometimes when it's time for a tank of Seafoam or an air cleaner cleaning. I'm sure others with FI with kick in here before long.

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Guest rockmeupto125

The wax element that provides high idle for the injected versions is somewhat touchy to extreme temperatures. That ambient may be enough to confuse it.

Once the engine warms and the high idle kicks out, you may experience low rpm surge due to not only the quite sensitive throttle, but also the lean condition from the factory ECU to meet emissions. A power commander will help that, as well as some time getting used to the really touchy throttle.

I'd suggest that to cover your bases, you run some Seafoam through it as well. With your low mileage, its possible the previous owner either didn't take it out very often, or babied it a bit much on short rides. If it was just putted around, its possible the spark plugs may not be as clean as they should be, and giving a bit of a poor spark that shows at low speeds, and contributes to your situation. I don't have any immediate thoughts from your description of the situation that there is anything wrong with your XX.

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Thank you for the advice.

I will try some Seafoam. The manual said to have the drive chain between 1 and 1 3/8 inches to play. Mine is around 7/8 inch.

Since I just got my hugger, fender extender, NEP and Heli bars I have some work ahead of me.

It would be nice to put new plugs in the bike. I just don't know how much of a process changing the plugs will be.

DUCE.

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A tight chain is not good. But 1/8 inch may not be a issue. Is the chain still in the green?

Warchild has a great writeup on his site for the plugs. Warchild plug

You need the plug wrench that comes with the tool kit.

Get your tank very low on fuel. You can then remove the two bolts at the rear of the tank, pull the two side cover plugs loose, and stand the tank up above the battery. I use soft packing foam to prevent scratches, others use towels. Follow his steps, and you can do it in a hour. Less if your eyes aren't old like mine.

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A tight chain is not good. But 1/8 inch may not be a issue. Is the chain still in the green?

Warchild has a great writeup on his site for the plugs. Warchild plug

You need the plug wrench that comes with the tool kit.

Get your tank very low on fuel. You can then remove the two bolts at the rear of the tank, pull the two side cover plugs loose, and stand the tank up above the battery. I use soft packing foam to prevent scratches, others use towels. Follow his steps, and you can do it in a hour. Less if your eyes aren't old like mine.

Thanks,

DUCE

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Thank you for the advice.

I will try some Seafoam. The manual said to have the drive chain between 1 and 1 3/8 inches to play. Mine is around 7/8 inch.

Since I just got my hugger, fender extender, NEP and Heli bars I have some work ahead of me.

It would be nice to put new plugs in the bike. I just don't know how much of a process changing the plugs will be.

DUCE.

You should not need a new set of plugs. A plug can go bad at any time but generally it would run on 3 cylinders at start up and be really rough.

I would add the Seafoam to your tank and take a long ride. She will run a little rough with the cleaner in the fuel. Get her out on the highway and open her up. I like to do a 5th gear roll-on up a hill full throttle from 50 mph. Slow down and repeat. Get those injectors clean.

Let the tank run down to flashing empty and fill it up with some good fresh gas (Shell V-Power). When the rest of the cleaner is out of the lines she should run fine.

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Ya I go along with the Sea Foam{ or fuel injector cleaner} idea, cant hurt and there could be some H2O or a little Crud in the fuel system.

Also if that is the OEM chain and of course it probably is and the bike has been parked alot, you could have a few tight spots.

Lube it up and the lumps will go away in a few miles.

Run the mother and see if it clears up!

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Also if that is the OEM chain and of course it probably is and the bike has been parked alot, you could have a few tight spots.

Lube it up and the lumps will go away in a few miles.

Run the mother and see if it clears up!

I was thinking this as well. Also 7/8 is awfully tight. When you lower the bike back on the ground and you are sitting on it the chain may just be too tight, and thats most certainly not a good thing. I would also do what chaserkeywest said and lube and work the chain, if its been sitting it is likely to be a little rusy in areas and a little tight in areas, so give it the attention it needs. And remember a new $120-150 chain only seems expensive until it breaks and messes everything up!

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In the maintenance section of my service manual ('97) it states the slack should be 1-1 3/8 inches when the bike is on the side stand. I don't recal what the relationship between the center stand/side stand measurement is as I haven't had to adjust mine for some time (in addition to getting old, I have 2 other bikes I ride regularly---so the Bird chain gets checked/adjusted couple times a year max now the new chain has 'settled in').

Once you have established the relationship---avoid being a jackass like me,--- write it down somewhere. Then you can easily adjust it on the center stand---no problem.

For sure---if your chain does have tight spots and you are running it tight---it will feel awful---and you know that has to play hell on lots of components. I would much rather have one on the loose side rather than tight.

Happy trails kel

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