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Tool for checking drive chain tension?


Zero Knievel

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Well, I'm sick of it. :icon_evil:

To see if a chain needs to be tightened, you follow the instructions in your manual.

For me, it's "put the bike on the centerstand and see if the freeplay in the chain within X to Y."

I know that sounds simple, but it's really a guessing game at times. I had to mark a wrench with tape and ink marks so I can eyeball it on the road when I'm on trips.

Don't they make an easy tool that lets you measure this easily or does everyone have to improvise a way to check this stuff?

It might be a little issue, but the work to make a minor chain adjustment is a real pain if I'm reading stuff wrong.

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Well, I'm sick of it. :icon_evil:

To see if a chain needs to be tightened, you follow the instructions in your manual.

For me, it's "put the bike on the centerstand and see if the freeplay in the chain within X to Y."

I know that sounds simple, but it's really a guessing game at times. I had to mark a wrench with tape and ink marks so I can eyeball it on the road when I'm on trips.

Don't they make an easy tool that lets you measure this easily or does everyone have to improvise a way to check this stuff?

It might be a little issue, but the work to make a minor chain adjustment is a real pain if I'm reading stuff wrong.

very compact.

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Toe, with boot on, is good. Finger works too but it gets dirty if you don't have glove on.

As far as that sidestand stuff, the manual also says to check tension at several points along the chain to make sure the tension is even (otherwise you may have kinks). I find that easier to do on centerstand.

Like posted above, a locking tape stood up under the chain is what I use for adjustment.

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Toe, with boot on, is good. Finger works too but it gets dirty if you don't have glove on.

As far as that sidestand stuff, the manual also says to check tension at several points along the chain to make sure the tension is even (otherwise you may have kinks). I find that easier to do on centerstand.

Like posted above, a locking tape stood up under the chain is what I use for adjustment.

It's suppose to be a side stand measurement because on the centerstand the tire hangs dropping the wheel and changing the measurement.

I noticed this after shimming the rear shock that the chain loosened a great deal so I check the tension as the book says. When weight is applied to the wheel the chain tightens and the slack tightens up.

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Toe, with boot on, is good. Finger works too but it gets dirty if you don't have glove on.

As far as that sidestand stuff, the manual also says to check tension at several points along the chain to make sure the tension is even (otherwise you may have kinks). I find that easier to do on centerstand.

Like posted above, a locking tape stood up under the chain is what I use for adjustment.

It's suppose to be a side stand measurement because on the centerstand the tire hangs dropping the wheel and changing the measurement.

I noticed this after shimming the rear shock that the chain loosened a great deal so I check the tension as the book says. When weight is applied to the wheel the chain tightens and the slack tightens up.

I don't remember which says which, but I have seen the service manual and the owner's manual say center stand and side stand, so who knows... Center stand would be a more constant measurement, because the sag on the side stand will change if you've got luggage and such on the bike... I just do it so that it's loose, but does not touch the bottom of the swingarm when I push up on the bottom of the chain...

Mike

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Indeed it does say to check when on the side stand.

In any case. I adjusted yesterday at 1.5". On the side stand, it's just over 1".

While the manual warns of the slack being over 2" because it will cause damage, how do you know when a chain is too loose? Any eyeball way to seeing it needs tightening rather than whipping out a ruler every morning?

What happens or what harm would come from it being a bit too loose (over 1.5") compared to being too tight?

Likewise, when on the centerstand, the chain can be made to touch the underside of the swingarm, but my guess (so far) is that so long as the links don't touch beyond the plastic/rubber pad (chainguide?) on the underside of the swingarm, it's not too loose. When properly adjusted, (and on the centerstand) the chain links can be pushed up to touch this pad easily, almost to the end of it.

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Indeed it does say to check when on the side stand.

In any case. I adjusted yesterday at 1.5". On the side stand, it's just over 1".

While the manual warns of the slack being over 2" because it will cause damage, how do you know when a chain is too loose? Any eyeball way to seeing it needs tightening rather than whipping out a ruler every morning?

What happens or what harm would come from it being a bit too loose (over 1.5") compared to being too tight?

Likewise, when on the centerstand, the chain can be made to touch the underside of the swingarm, but my guess (so far) is that so long as the links don't touch beyond the plastic/rubber pad (chainguide?) on the underside of the swingarm, it's not too loose. When properly adjusted, (and on the centerstand) the chain links can be pushed up to touch this pad easily, almost to the end of it.

What I was saying was that: I don't remember which one says which, but one of them says side stand, and one says center stand... I think the owners manual says side stand, and the Honda service manual says center stand... or maybe it's the other way around... either way, I've seen Honda material say both...

I have it adjusted so that the top of the links are about 1/8" away from touching the chain guide on the under-side of the swingarm, and I replaced my first chain at 23,000 miles and it was not kinking and had plenty of adjustment left, but I just replaced it at the beginning of the season, because I didn't want to worry about it... the chain was fine, so I guess I'm not doing it too tight... With the 6mm mod done, 1.5" of slack on the center stand will not touch the swingarm chain guide, and on the side stand, there is about 1-1/4" of slack, and it still will not touch the chain guide. This chain's got alittle over 10k on it and has not yet had to be adjusted, and I adjust it the same way...

Mike

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I presume everyone checks for slack with the gearbox in neutral, right?

I can't see how you keep the top of the links from touching the underside chain guard on the swingarm. It'd have to be adjusted pretty tight to do that. :icon_eek:

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I presume everyone checks for slack with the gearbox in neutral, right?

I can't see how you keep the top of the links from touching the underside chain guard on the swingarm. It'd have to be adjusted pretty tight to do that. :icon_eek:

Yes, in neutral...

1.5" of slack with the 6mm mod done... which seems to be about like the reccomended 1 to 1-3/8" of slack at stock height, because when it's on the side stand (read, some sag), it's at about 1-1/4" of slack. It also does not bind up the suspension when riding, which is the real test as to if it's too tight or not.

Mike

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How many of you have sag on your sidestand?

When mine is on its sidestand the rear suspension is topped out. :icon_confused:

One check for correct rider sag is while dismounted the rear while supported at the front will "just" top out with the weight of the bike alone. When you have it on the sidestand it unweights the rear suspension further.

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on the stock shock, for me to have the sag set correctly for 1-up, there is some sag when on the side stand, and some sag when the bike is just sitting straight up. When I have the preload set up for 2-up, there is no sag when on the sidestand, so it is the same as when on the center stand. Therefore, I always check it on the center stand, because that is a measurement that does not change for how you have the preload and spring rate set up.

Mike

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