97bird Posted September 6, 2006 Share Posted September 6, 2006 Thanks, everyone. Please see previous post last month under the same title. I have a 1997 bird that would not idle. I cleaned the plugs and removed the pilot jets. I did this without removing the carbs. You need a good screwdriver collection, but it only takes a few minutes, and I took out the jets and squirted carb cleaner in the carb opening where the jets were. Then I soaked the jets - they fit nicely in a shot glass that was handy. I did not find much varnish at all and I checked them with a fine sewing needle like you are not supposed to. I reassembled the carbs, and the bike ran great, just like my two previous Hondas - a 350 scrambler from the late 1960s and a 600 Interceptor from the mid 1980s. The bike idles smoothly and runs better than it used to from idle to 3,000 rpm. Previously, it ran fine above 3,000. I set it to idle at around 1300 rpm. The bike has 7,300 miles on it and a new battery and new Continental tires and is in near new condition. It is much too fast for an old guy like me (57). I feel safer on my Geezer Glide. How much should I ask for it and is the forum a good place to list it? I am in eastern CT. Thanks again, members. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBBXX Posted September 6, 2006 Share Posted September 6, 2006 Thanks, everyone. Please see previous post last month under the same title. I have a 1997 bird that would not idle. I cleaned the plugs and removed the pilot jets. I did this without removing the carbs. You need a good screwdriver collection, but it only takes a few minutes, and I took out the jets and squirted carb cleaner in the carb opening where the jets were. Then I soaked the jets - they fit nicely in a shot glass that was handy. I did not find much varnish at all and I checked them with a fine sewing needle like you are not supposed to. I reassembled the carbs, and the bike ran great, just like my two previous Hondas - a 350 scrambler from the late 1960s and a 600 Interceptor from the mid 1980s. The bike idles smoothly and runs better than it used to from idle to 3,000 rpm. Previously, it ran fine above 3,000. I set it to idle at around 1300 rpm. The bike has 7,300 miles on it and a new battery and new Continental tires and is in near new condition. It is much too fast for an old guy like me (57). I feel safer on my Geezer Glide. How much should I ask for it and is the forum a good place to list it? I am in eastern CT. Thanks again, members. Nice try buddy. You can't pull the "I'm too old for this" shit around here. Your age is not much higher than the mean age on this forum. Keep the bird and stop your whining. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OZDave Posted September 6, 2006 Share Posted September 6, 2006 Yeah, Ya big sook! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
97bird Posted September 6, 2006 Author Share Posted September 6, 2006 Yeah, Ya big sook! What is a "sook" ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OZDave Posted September 6, 2006 Share Posted September 6, 2006 Sort of a Momma’s boy, A wiener. Similar to being called a skirt or a big girl. Refers to a person who should stop complaining and get on with the job at hand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redxxrdr Posted September 7, 2006 Share Posted September 7, 2006 Keep your bird. Remember, There may be a speed limit. But there is no Age Limit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric_The_Jew Posted September 7, 2006 Share Posted September 7, 2006 97Bird....please tell me how you removed the pilot jets with the carbs still on the bike. My bike runs very rough on the pilot jets (I know they are varnished up) and I would like to clean them. You said it only takes a few minutes to pull the pilot jets even if you leave the carbs on? How did you get the float bowl phillips screws off without stripping them out? I haven't had my fuel tank or airbox off yet, so i'm not even sure how the carburetors are situated or angled. Thanks for any help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sykotek-xx Posted September 8, 2006 Share Posted September 8, 2006 I checked them with a fine sewing needle like you are not supposed to. ^^^ Funny. new Continental tires Which ones? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhawkxx Posted September 8, 2006 Share Posted September 8, 2006 Keep your bird A Bird in the hand is worth two in the bush. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
97bird Posted September 8, 2006 Author Share Posted September 8, 2006 97Bird....please tell me how you removed the pilot jets with the carbs still on the bike. My bike runs very rough on the pilot jets (I know they are varnished up) and I would like to clean them. You said it only takes a few minutes to pull the pilot jets even if you leave the carbs on? How did you get the float bowl phillips screws off without stripping them out? I haven't had my fuel tank or airbox off yet, so i'm not even sure how the carburetors are situated or angled. Thanks for any help. My pleasure. Remove the tank - you can leave the air box on. The bottoms of the carbs are easy to get to and have 3 screws each - I used a stubby, a 6" and a 90 degree screwdriver. Use as large diameter phillips as will fit. I turned the drivers with a pair of slip-joint pliers when necessary. On one or two screws, I used a piece of wood as a lever to hold the driver tight against the screw and then used the pliers. Sometimes, loosening two screws helps with the third. Haynes says to use valve grinding compound to keep the driver from slipping, but I did not have to. These are just some of the usual tricks for removing screws in tight places. Other members no doubt have lots of suggestions. With the float bowls off and clean, remove the pilot jet with a slotted stubby. Clean and replace. Replace the bowls. The 90 degree is especially good for feeling how tight to turn the screws. Mine ran great after that! Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric_The_Jew Posted September 9, 2006 Share Posted September 9, 2006 My pleasure. Remove the tank - you can leave the air box on. The bottoms of the carbs are easy to get to and have 3 screws each - I used a stubby, a 6" and a 90 degree screwdriver. Use as large diameter phillips as will fit. I turned the drivers with a pair of slip-joint pliers when necessary. On one or two screws, I used a piece of wood as a lever to hold the driver tight against the screw and then used the pliers. Sometimes, loosening two screws helps with the third. Haynes says to use valve grinding compound to keep the driver from slipping, but I did not have to. These are just some of the usual tricks for removing screws in tight places. Other members no doubt have lots of suggestions. With the float bowls off and clean, remove the pilot jet with a slotted stubby. Clean and replace. Replace the bowls. The 90 degree is especially good for feeling how tight to turn the screws. Mine ran great after that! Good luck! Thanks for the tips, 97bird. Like I said, I haven't even had my tank off, so I don't even know what it looks like under there, but I wasn't expecting it to be nearly that easy. I was expecting the bowls to be way out of sight and tucked waaay underneath the airbox. I can't wait to clean up my pilots, because my bike is a bear to drive around town with all the lurching and bucking and such. One more question.....does the bird's float bowls use the cheap gaskets that break when you pull the bowls? Should I order some new ones before I attemt to clean the pilots? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBBXX Posted September 11, 2006 Share Posted September 11, 2006 Thanks for the tips, 97bird. +1 That goes for me too. I think I'll print that off for future reference as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
97bird Posted September 11, 2006 Author Share Posted September 11, 2006 Thanks for the tips, 97bird. Like I said, I haven't even had my tank off, so I don't even know what it looks like under there, but I wasn't expecting it to be nearly that easy. I was expecting the bowls to be way out of sight and tucked waaay underneath the airbox. I can't wait to clean up my pilots, because my bike is a bear to drive around town with all the lurching and bucking and such. One more question.....does the bird's float bowls use the cheap gaskets that break when you pull the bowls? Should I order some new ones before I attemt to clean the pilots? You're welcome. You can remove the air box to get to the top of the carbs - where you can access needles, diaphrams, etc. But, to get to the bottom where the pilot jets are, you can leave the air box right where it is. No need to order new gaskets. The gaskets are some miracle rubber-like substance that is plenty strong for two or three disassemblies. Just check for leaks, as anyone would do after carb work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
97bird Posted September 11, 2006 Author Share Posted September 11, 2006 I checked them with a fine sewing needle like you are not supposed to. ^^^ Funny. new Continental tires Which ones? Previous owner replaced the rear tire with a ContiForce cc130. The original front tire was worn so I put on a ContiForce cc120. I have driven them in the dry and the rain a little, and they feel pretty good. In the wet, they seem to let you know you have less adhesion, but I had no trouble keeping them firmly stuck to the road. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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