Eric_The_Jew

You're looking at a like new, showroom condition, bone stock CBR. You simply will not find one in this condition anywhere. Maintained by a meticulous owner and garaged since new. Never seen rain. Clean enough to eat off of.....literally. Still has original Bridgestone tires that look great. Just turned over 3,000 miles. Come check it out; you can't tell it from one off the showroom floor except for the price difference. Why buy new when you can let someone else take the depreciation hit? $6900 Call Eric at 352-226-2213.

Lol....whoever pays that kinda price for a 6 year old Blackbird is on crack.

Okay guys.....the tough economy calls for a new price for my baby. $3,900 FIRM. Thanks for the compliments! Also, the bike now has brand new front and rear Bridgestone Battlax BT-016 radials. New mileage is 4935. Clean, Clean, Clean!!!!!!!!

If you want a time capsule from 1996, then this is the bike. It is really like new. Only 3,500 original miles. I bought this bike from the original, meticulous owner. Still has the original Bridgestone Battlax tires. The ONLY thing that isn't original on this bike is a Micron slip on exhaust. Never spent a night outside of a garage. If you see it you will buy it. $4,900 Yes, I fully realize that it's priced above Kelly Blue Book. If you want to be exclusive, you pay the price! Call Eric at 352-226-2213. This would make a great addition to any enthusiast's collection. All owners manuals, factory keys, etc. included. Title in hand

I still think there is some confusion in this thread. To the original poster: Are you referring to a "valve job" or a "valve adjustment"? Two totally different animals!!

So if you screw the tee barb fitting into the bottom of the soda bottle, what is going to seal it?? A soda bottle isn't very thick, and I would think it would deform or strip out easily if you tried to thread anything into it. Just curious how to go about this, because it would definitely be a good setup!

Be careful with that mercury, kids. I hear it's a little dangerous

So I guess a barb tee fitting is a fairly common part one could buy at the hardware store? I think that's all I should need, because a gear oil bottle already has the cap with a pointed tip. I could just slide some fuel line over the tip of the bottle, and run that to the barb tee fitting. Oh yea, and i'll need to poke a vent hole in the top of the bottle and figure out some way to hang it higher than the carbs. I need one of those IV roll around carts that you see in hospitals This carb synch will be this weekend's project.

I recall reading a thread where someone had made a temporary gas "tank" for carb synching purposes (I think they used an old gear oil bottle). My question is, how would one go about hooking up a contraption such as this to the Bird's dual fuel lines?

Just to clarify, here is a pic where the vaccum nipples are built into the carbs like I was referring to earlier: http://www.geocities.com/mwtredb12/carbsync4.html

The Motion Pro mercury sticks comes with the adaptors you need. yep, that's what I've got... In fact, every bike I've worked on has had those, so I don't know what the "standard" way is, if it's not those... in fact, the only one that I know of that uses another way is SOME yamahas (FZ1, namely), and you have to buy a special adaptor for them... Hmmm...that's strange. Every bike with carbs that I have synched in the past has had the vaccum nipples and rubber caps built directly onto the carbs themselves. Guess maybe that design is the exception to the rule?

As you guys know, our bikes use an unconventional way of tapping into a vaccum source when it comes to synching the throttle bodies or carbs. You've gotta buy 4 adapters that screw into the cylinder head, and your synch tool hoses will attach to these. My question is, where have you guys purchased them? Morgan Carbtune offers them, but they list a 5mm and a 6mm size option. What size does the Bird need?

Yup, have the carbs completely gone through. As the others have stated, it could definitely be a sticky slide. It probably wouldn't hurt (with your mileage) to have the emulsion tubes replaced while you're in there. They've been known to wear out with high mileage and throw your air fuel mixture all out of whack.

It is quite possible it may need new shims, yet some on this site claim to have checked the valves at 50K miles and still needed no new shims. It all depends on how you've ridden the bike. Lots of high rpm operation at full throttle will lessen your intervals between needing valve adjustments. By the same token, you must also realize what is normal valvetrain noise and what is not. Any motor that uses direct valve actuation like ours (i.e., not hydraulic lifters) will make a certain amount of ticking. Furthermore, you have the fuel injected model, and fuel injectors also will make a ticking (the solenoids inside them) that often is confused for valvetrain noise.

Thanks airborne. I will give this thread another day or two to see if anyone has a pilot lying around that they can get the part number off of. If not, I guess i'll yank the tank and float bowl and just get the part number the old fashioned way.

Airborne, don't take this to sound like i'm doubting your knowledge, but I just want to be sure this is the right jet before I order. Keihin makes about 4 other series of pilots that look just like the "series 21" that you mentioned. See here: http://www.keihin-us.com/list.htm. Just want to clarify this before I order from Chaparral (who has some of the cheapest prices on jets, BTW!)

UGH.....I know I sound needy guys, but I need another piece of info. If someone has a pilot jet out of the bike, could you read me the part number on the side of it? Keihin makes about 4 different series of pilot jets, and I need to make sure I get the right one in a size 42.

Anyone know what number pilot jets our XX's use? (yes, I forgot to look before I put the float bowls back on :icon_wall: )

Well, I yanked the float bowls today to try and cure the rough idle my bike has had ever since I bought it. I cleaned the pilots and reassembled. However, me being the ham fisted guy that I am, I twisted off the top of one of the pilot jets (the slotted portion that the screwdriver fits into). Damn, brass is REALLY soft! It was a nice, clean break and it doesn't obstruct the hole that fuel flows into. Do any of you see a problem by just leaving it this way? The bike appears to run good now that the pilots are all clean. Also, where is a good place to buy the replacement Keihin pilots?

Thanks Bjorn! Your help is much appreciated. Are those pages out of the Honda service manual? If so, they look a lot different than the Honda manuals in the US. I noticed all the "British" spelling

Actually, someone said they had a 97 scan done and just needed to send it to me. Let me try and get in touch with them. PM me to remind me or else I'll forget... Sounds good. That'd be great if you could get ahold of that scan

So no one on this board has a service manual for a carbureted Bird?

It looks like you pick up a solid 20 HP at redline, where the stock pipe really falls off. Of course, this is TiForce's dyno chart, so I would really like to see an "independent" test just to verify this is true.

^^ Cool, keep us posted. I would also be curious if anyone is using a TiForce on a carbed bird. What size mains are you using and what needle clip position?