bhanxx Posted June 20, 2006 Share Posted June 20, 2006 1. Depress and Hold Starter Button. 2. Turn Ignition Key. 3. Release Starter Button upon Start (normal). HID won't ignite until after step 3 and thus cutting your HID ignition counts in half. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartonmd Posted June 20, 2006 Share Posted June 20, 2006 1. Depress and Hold Starter Button. 2. Turn Ignition Key. 3. Release Starter Button upon Start (normal). HID won't ignite until after step 3 and thus cutting your HID ignition counts in half. Yep... Been doing it for 8 months... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willxx23 Posted June 20, 2006 Share Posted June 20, 2006 Yep... Been doing it for 8 months... Mike +1 I thought everyone did this. :icon_think: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warchild Posted June 20, 2006 Share Posted June 20, 2006 1. Depress and Hold Starter Button. 2. Turn Ignition Key. 3. Release Starter Button upon Start (normal). HID won't ignite until after step 3 and thus cutting your HID ignition counts in half. This certainly works... as long as you remember to do it! I went one step further, and installed an interrupt switch to the ground wire of the low beam. Now I just switch off the low beam when I switch off the bike. When I go to start it again, I wait until the engine is running before throwing the toggle switch again. Same end result... but I have to remember to do this every time, too. My Yamaha FJR has the arrangment we're really after here... it normally does NOT flow power to the headlights until the engine is started (vice turning the ignition on). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrganDonor Posted June 20, 2006 Share Posted June 20, 2006 I've got the euro switch, so I can shut off the headlamp, or all the lights if need be. But you all knew this anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XXBIRD Posted June 20, 2006 Share Posted June 20, 2006 Yep... Been doing it for 8 months... Mike +1 I thought everyone did this. :icon_think: Except me I guess... Well kept secret, uh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBBXX Posted June 20, 2006 Share Posted June 20, 2006 Nobody's worried that the ignition switch may not be designed for the added current? It very well may be I wouldn't know, but it's the one thing that holds me back from doing this. Has anyone looked into what the starting relay draws and what the switch is rated for? marty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airborneXX Posted June 20, 2006 Share Posted June 20, 2006 Nobody's worried that the ignition switch may not be designed for the added current? It very well may be I wouldn't know, but it's the one thing that holds me back from doing this. Has anyone looked into what the starting relay draws and what the switch is rated for? marty You're not driving the starter with the ignition switch, just completing the solenoid circuit, same as when you turn the key on then hit the button. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willxx23 Posted June 20, 2006 Share Posted June 20, 2006 Yep... Been doing it for 8 months... Mike +1 I thought everyone did this. :icon_think: Except me I guess... Well kept secret, uh? I think Redbird suggested it a while back, then he went for those cool Euro switches so he wouldn't have to do it. Ooo dibs on Redbirds switches if they made it.. It took some getting use to but now its become the norm for me when starting now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted June 20, 2006 Share Posted June 20, 2006 Ooo dibs on Redbirds switches if they made it.. I've only got the right one. Consider yourself first on the list if it goes that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willxx23 Posted June 20, 2006 Share Posted June 20, 2006 Ooo dibs on Redbirds switches if they made it.. I've only got the right one. Consider yourself first on the list if it goes that way. If it goes the other way you can have any eXXtra XX parts I have laying around here to help you get her back on the road. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Furbird Posted June 20, 2006 Share Posted June 20, 2006 You EFI guys don't let the oil light and the fuel pump shut off first before cranking? Man, you just cut like 200,000 miles off your 2 million mile service interval motor! Seriously, I would not do this personally. When I cut the bike on (even with the remote start), the initial startup sequence gets to go through first before I ever think of hitting the start button (or before the starter is engaged in the case of the remote start). You guys aren't hurting anything by doing it your way, are you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willxx23 Posted June 20, 2006 Share Posted June 20, 2006 You guys aren't hurting anything by doing it your way, are you? Not hurting the HID bulb for sure... Seriously though it's not any different than turning the key and hitting the starter except for the headlight coming on then being interupted when hitting and releasing the starter. Been doing this installing the HID and have seen no ill effects whatsoever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarchyXX Posted June 21, 2006 Share Posted June 21, 2006 i read this before i went to work today and thought i would give it a try it seems to crank over another couple of seconds before firing now could this be cos there is no fuel pressure etc, I am not real keen on cranking the engine for longer than it needs so ill go back to waiting till the fuel pump stops etc then pushing the button. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SD Marc Posted June 22, 2006 Share Posted June 22, 2006 I always have the clutch in when I start the bike. How do I hold the clutch in, depress the starter switch and turn the key at the same time? Aw screw it, I just let the bulb warm up for a little bit before I start it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironmike Posted June 22, 2006 Share Posted June 22, 2006 I agree with Warchild... an in-line switch in the factory lo-beam juice line solves the problem... and I think my bike starts easier - quicker for certain. The switch I used is illuminated (red) when "ON" so "forgetting" is minimized... Besides, it pays to remember that whatever Dale comes up with usually works as well - and sometimes better - than intended. :icon_clap: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pug Posted June 22, 2006 Share Posted June 22, 2006 I always have the clutch in when I start the bike. How do I hold the clutch in, depress the starter switch and turn the key at the same time? Aw screw it, I just let the bulb warm up for a little bit before I start it. Why would you do that since it doesn't start if it is in gear? :icon_think: Moreover to the subject, I measured the current draw and for the first 30 seconds (more or less HID warm up time) is about 10 amps, then goes down to 4. I think WC is the best. For those who are looking into Euro spec switchgear, keep in mind that from 2003 (and maybe 2002) there is not lights-off switch (Euro legislation). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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