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VFR bar mod - with pics


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I just installed yesterday, but not 100% finished. I still need to glue on and wire the new heated grips.

The brake line is snug, I did bend the line bracket upward a little on the bottom side of the lower triple tree to get a bit of extra length. Also, I had to loosen the clutch line from behind the rear brake line junction block on the left side of the steering head, then just zip tied it to the brake line there. I had to cut the locating tabs from the clutch and brake master cylinders to spin the banjo fittings. Crack that bolt loose and spin the banjo fittings some while they are still mounted to the stock bars. They will not mount on the new bars until you do this, and it's hard to crack that fitting loose without leverage....trust me.

I also had to grind a little away from the right clip on from where the brake light wires exit the master. There is already a notch milled out there, but it needed to have a bit more removed below the notch since the wires get pinched. I suspect the VFR wires come straight out, not out and down at a right angle like the XX.

The VFR bars are probably 1.5" wider overall between bar ends. They also have less of a downward angle, so they are maybe only 3/4" higher at the fork tube, but maybe an 1" or more higher at the ends. Also, they attach at the fork probably 3/4" farther back, but don't sweep back at as sharp of an angle. The way the geometry works out, I think it does more to put the bars closer to you, rather than higher. You will see this if you compare the different angles.

Below is a link to a zip file containing 13 JPEG pictures of the bars. Size of file approx. 1MB. Several comparison shots from different angles of the XX versus the VFR bars prior to install. I clamped the bars to a piece of plywood so you can see the different angles accurately.

The installed comparison shots show with stock bar still installed on left, and the new VFR bar on the right. The pics include the heated grip and no bar end on the right side. The heated grips are 1-7/16" diameter and the stock is 1-1/4" dia.

Click this link and save file to your hard drive. You will need Winzip or other zip program to open.

http://home.comcast.net/~cbrxx/pics/vfr_mod.zip

Sorry. It's late. So I hope that all makes sense.

Steve

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Nice! very detailed... enough to sell me on the concept.

now, if i could only get this new job i'm working on, i'll be commuting again on the bird, will afford to buy a track bike (hopefully an RC51), and these bars would make a lot of sense for me!

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Mostly because I appreciate the pictures so much, I put them on my web site:

VFR bar install pictures

I have a couple of questions:

How did you get the bar weights out of them? On the right side, I've got a Throttlemeister, so I'm not too worried about that one. I assume there's nothing else deeper inside the bar. On the left side, I assume there's a bar weight in there that I will need to pull out, and then move to the new VFR bar. Is that correct?

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Damn Hobi. Can I just send you any pics in the future to setup like that? :grin: I have some web site space with my internet account, but have not really setup anything, other than having a place to dump files. Too much of a pain in the butt to setup links to all the pics. Was easier to just make the zip file, and post one link!

Now I wish I took some better pics. :shock: My basement is a mess, the lighting was not good, and my video camera only has something like 420k pixel resolution for stills. It takes nice video, but the stills suck. It was a half-ass job, but better than nothing. I wanted to get some pics for everone, and forgot to borrow the office digital camera.

Anyway, I saw a friend struggle once to remove the factory weights on a 929, so I just bought a new set of weights with the bars. Of course, his was a few years old, and he didn't use the following method.

To remove the weights, you should spray some silicone lube in the locating holes for the switch housing, and in the holes for the weight retainer ring. This will help the rubber slide out. Reattach the bar end, so you have something to pull and twist. The retainer ring has two little tabs that click into the two holes at the outside end of the bar. You need to depress these with a small punch to release, before pulling.

It was maybe an extra $16 per bar at RonAyers.com to get the parts for the weights. It is actually recommended that the retainer ring be replaced anyway when removed.

Here are the 4 part numbers for the weights:

53105-KV3-000 WEIGHT

53106-KT7-000 RUBBER

53106-MJ0-000 RUBBER

53108-MAT-000 RING

Steve

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Great pictures. I can vouch for your instructions because I did the same job on my XX last fall. The last thing I did was to open up the wire groove in the right bar just like you described. Haven't had much riding time this spring yet due to weather, but initial impressions are very favorable. The riding position is very much like my old VFR.

MikeG

ps also in Ma--work in Framingham, live in Bolton

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RE Pictures and stuff:

Yea, I got gigs of space, and I wrote the program that does the thumbnailing/html generation, so it takes me about 5 minutes to build and post the whole thing.

When I got my Throttlemeister, it came with a bar weight extraction tool. Bascially, you put this spacer thingy on the end of one of the weights, and then put an extra long hex head screw onto the weight When you tighten the screw, it ends up pulling the weight out. I wonder if I can use the same method/tool on the other bar. Of course, I could order new weights and parts, but I was hoping to do my VFR Bar install on Friday.

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Go for it. No reason the extraction tool won't work on the other side. They are identical. The only thing holding them in, is the slight pressure on the rubber bushings, and those two pins on the clip. Just remove the grip first.

If you can't get the weight out, just don't glue your left grip back on until you get a replacement weight. A long thin screwdriver and brake cleaner make the grip removal easier.

BTW, another tip. You don't have to completely disassemble the switch housings and throttle cable. Remove the master cylinders, then loosen the switch housings, and the bars. Lift the bars off the forks, and then slide them out of the housings. Have the replacement handy to slide back in and then onto the fork.

Here is a link another zip file with 9 more pics. These are closeups of the wires and lines. File size @ 880k

http://home.comcast.net/~cbrxx/pics/vfr_mod2.zip

Steve

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Thanks for the tip(s)

I even updated the pictures on the web site

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I finally finished the HotGrips install this weekend, so got to test the VFR bars. I can't say I noticed a huge difference with the VFR bars, but I think they are in a more comfortable position. It's hard to tell, since I had not ridden the bird since December.

But the heated grips...fucking awesome! By the time I finished yesterday, it was @ 52 F outside. I didn't take a long ride, but my hands stayed toasty warm, where I would usually feel the chill at that temp.

Steve

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  • 3 weeks later...

First I want to thank mickcbr1100 for posting the link.

Now, when I try to download from the link cbrxx posted, it keeps failing. :cry:

Is there another way I can get to it? (it's pics and a tutorial, I believe)

:arrow: Thank you!!

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Just thought I would add to the thread the

part numbers for 2002 VFR bars

left: 53150-MCW-DOO

right: 53100-MCW-DOO

Not sure why the link is failing for you. It is a ZIP file, so you need to save it to your hard drive when presented with the option, and you need a program like Winzip to open the zip file, and the pictures are inside.

If you just want to see the pics, just go here:

http://www.ultsoftware.com/vfrbars

PS: Maybe this could be moved to the "useful threads" section!

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  • 1 month later...
Just thought I would add to the thread the

part numbers for 2002 VFR bars  

left:  53150-MCW-DOO  

right:  53100-MCW-DOO

Tried these part numbers, but didn't work at RonAyers.com

OR servicehonda.com

<puzzled>

:cool: TJ :cool:

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Right Handlebar: 53100-MCW-D00

Left Handlebar: 53150-MCW-D00

Speedfreek -

I did a "cut & paste" directly from ronayers website to give you the above numbers. I also used these numbers to order my husband's VFR bars for his XX a couple weeks ago. We ordered the bars directly from our Honda dealer cuz I asked them to match ronayers' price -- which they didn't hesitate to do. :wink:

edit: He got the bars (in 3 days), installed 'em and loves 'em.

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We ordered the bars directly from our Honda dealer cuz I asked them to match ronayers' price -- which they didn't hesitate to do

Since you're also in Michigan... I've got to know which dealer matched that price

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you smart folks probably noticed already, but the issue with the part numbers appears to be the difference between 0(zero) and O(the letter O). The last 3 characters are D-zero-zero.

MikeG

Have the bars on my XX and they work great!

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Since you're also in Michigan... I've got to know which dealer matched that price

It's the only Honda dealership we've dealt with for the past 3 years(Village Motorsports in GR), so they know us pretty good.

What I would do is go to ronayers.com, click on the bars and put them in the shopping cart and go all the way like you're going to purchase them, then print out that page. Bring that to your regular dealership and ask them if they'll match that price.

I'm not sure if Village would be willing to do it with someone over the phone, sight-unseen. We spent a bunch of money with them this spring (probably over $2500), so that may be another reason why they matched it.

you smart folks probably noticed already, but the issue with the part numbers appears to be the difference between 0(zero) and O(the letter O). The last 3 characters are D-zero-zero.

I noticed it, but I wasn't going to say anything. :wink:

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  • 1 month later...

Halfway through the VFR Bar mod.

Instructions posted at the top of this thread were spot-on.

I've raised the bars on the tubes to give as much "lift" as possible; I had to fine-tune the clutch side to prevent the clutch handle from hitting the left mirror at full right lock. No similar problems with the brake handle, just a little nervous about the taut brake line. Probably will replace with +1" line over the offseason.

Bar end weights were a bitch to remove; all that WD-40 that I had stocked up waiting to use on my chain solved that. I was able to salvage the old clips just fine.

Tonight I attach the Dual-Star grip heaters, and new Pro-Grips. Black and Yellow, of course, in honor of our fallen bud.

This has been mentioned before, but the "lift" and "back" isn't what I thought it would be. Doesn't really appear to be all that different from just raising the stock clips on the fork tubes. Then again, we're talking inch increments here.

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It's the only Honda dealership we've dealt with for the past 3 years(Village Motorsports in GR), so they know us pretty good.

Are they not the ones on Plainfield and Three Miles Road? Family owned business. They didn't seem like negotiating types to me for bike purchase. I tried to buy a new XX from them (the BLACK one) but didn't work out then.

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It's the only Honda dealership we've dealt with for the past 3 years(Village Motorsports in GR), so they know us pretty good.

Are they not the ones on Plainfield and Three Miles Road? Family owned business. They didn't seem like negotiating types to me for bike purchase. I tried to buy a new XX from them (the BLACK one) but didn't work out then.

I heard that the business changed hands several years ago. In 1992, I travelled there from Detroit to buy my 1993 Goldwing at a very good price. I doubt that the people who you dealt with were the family who owned that dealership for a number of years.

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Are they not the ones on Plainfield and Three Miles Road? Family owned business. They didn't seem like negotiating types to me for bike purchase. I tried to buy a new XX from them (the BLACK one) but didn't work out then.

Yes, the shop on Plainfield. A couple of the guys there are good, but then there are a couple that we avoid. That's where Don got his XX in 2000, and I purchased my XR200 from them. My other 3 bikes I bought elsewhere.

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  • 3 years later...

I have been researching what kind of bars to install on my xx. I was under the impression that the vfr clip ons increased the height about 2 inches? My next choice is the heli bar it raises them 1 5/8 inch and 1 inch rearward. I believe the convertabars will raise it the most but I think you have to change the hoses to get the most height.

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