yanivic Posted May 10, 2006 Share Posted May 10, 2006 Hello, Can you any one please tell me if jetting is absolutely necessary if we install a Full system? Im wondering, if adding shims to the needles and adjusting the pilot screw would suffice for regualr highway/city riding? Thanks in advance V Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porterb123 Posted May 11, 2006 Share Posted May 11, 2006 Only way to tell is to try it and see. BUT, you will have made the engine flow more air and change the ratio of fuel to air to the lean side. For best performance you will need to rejet. Pilot screws are for idle and low rpm running. Needles are more for the midrange rpms and cruising. Main jets are for the high enf and WFO. All three circuits overlap and affect each other. You may get closer just doing pilot screw settings and shimming the needles, but not just right. If you are going to pull the carbs to adjust the needles, its only a little more work to change the jets. Get a jet kit....others may chime in as to which brand is better for the XX. My experience is with older air cooled Hondas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flitemdic Posted May 11, 2006 Share Posted May 11, 2006 Hello, Can you any one please tell me if jetting is absolutely necessary if we install a Full system? Im wondering, if adding shims to the needles and adjusting the pilot screw would suffice for regualr highway/city riding? Thanks in advance V For what you save in not having to screw around with adjustments, and getting it "just right", I'd buy the kit and leave it at that. I don't have a real good idea of what kit is best- I went with whatever the wrench I use put on- but it makes a huge difference in getting rid of the flat spot. (Between that and the pipes.) Hey! One I actually knew the answer to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yanivic Posted May 11, 2006 Author Share Posted May 11, 2006 Thank you! I may get by as most of the riding should be part throttle(low to mid range rpms), if not I will install the main jets... Arent the main jets in middle carbs bigger than the outer ones? if so, can I just re-use/install them in the outer carbs and buy new bigger jets for the inner carbs? Thanks, V Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beondwacko Posted May 11, 2006 Share Posted May 11, 2006 If you like to risk detonation and or maybe overheating or terrible fuel mileage or bogging or surging or burning exhaust valves or a Republican President again,,,,,, then leave it alone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yanivic Posted May 11, 2006 Author Share Posted May 11, 2006 Out of curiousity, why would the fuel consumption go up? wouldnt the system be running lean, meaning a stingy bugger? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TURK Posted May 11, 2006 Share Posted May 11, 2006 you should always re-jet. when your bike was designed by honda and tested the carbs were detuned to pass federal emmission standards, you can re-jet a bike with factory exhaust to increase performance.one of the process when installing a jet kit is to drill the slide to increase throttle response,also if you increase exhaust flow you should always increase air/fuel mixture Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beondwacko Posted May 11, 2006 Share Posted May 11, 2006 Out of curiousity, why would the fuel consumption go up? wouldnt the system be running lean, meaning a stingy bugger? After it goes past the point of no return(really lean) many times what happens is that in order for the bike to produce a given amount of power now requires a greater throttle opening than if it were running at the correct ratio. Sorry if the explanation is vague. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in PA Posted May 11, 2006 Share Posted May 11, 2006 I question if some aftermarket exausts actually flow more air then factory. I've still got the factory exaust. I paid my $100 and bought a DynoJet jet kit, installed it and never could get it quite right. It also dropped my MPG from 42 to 32. I removed it and sold it. My current setup has shims under the factory needles, pilot screw out 3 turns, and vac. slide holes drilled out to 1/8th in. Runs perfect and I still get 40-42 MPG. If you actually find a system that flows more you can just buy 4 bigger main jets. much cheaper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yanivic Posted May 11, 2006 Author Share Posted May 11, 2006 Thanks... Hey Pete, I've searched for posts related to jetting and exhausts and found a few threads in which you have noted that, you've got rid (drilled) of the restriction in the stock exhaust to some extent. How does it sound at different engine speeds? The reason i'm asking is, I've recently bought a set of stockers (Drilled, I was told and am still waiting for them to be arrive) and also bought the D&D full exhaust from DBLTXX (sp?)... I really would like get some feed back from you on how the stock (drilled) pipes sound. I am unable to decide, whether to have the stock drilled ones or to have the D&D... the full exhaust apprently saves a lot of weight, but if it's too loud to an extent where it is unbearable, I might go back to stock.. On another note, why did you have the air screws turned out to 3 turns? isn't that supposed to make the engine run lean during low throttle application? Thank you, V edit: it is DBLXXTC from whom I got the Exhaust System... PS: Pete, where did you get the shims and can you tell me the thickness? are they some where around .5mm??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beondwacko Posted May 11, 2006 Share Posted May 11, 2006 Thanks... Hey Pete, I've searched for posts related to jetting and exhausts and found a few threads in which you have noted that, you've got rid (drilled) of the restriction in the stock exhaust to some extent. How does it sound at different engine speeds? The reason i'm asking is, I've recently bought a set of stockers (Drilled, I was told and am still waiting for them to be arrive) and also bought the D&D full exhaust from DBLTXX (sp?)... I really would like get some feed back from you on how the stock (drilled) pipes sound. I am unable to decide, whether to have the stock drilled ones or to have the D&D... the full exhaust apprently saves a lot of weight, but if it's too loud to an extent where it is unbearable, I might go back to stock.. On another note, why did you have the air screws turned out to 3 turns? isn't that supposed to make the engine run lean during low throttle application? Thank you, V PS: Pete, where did you get the shims and can you tell me the thickness? are they some where around .5mm??? Let me make a comment for just a second. If you are looking for the most in power gains, then a full system is your solution along with jetting. If you want the bike to sound different ( louder ) then slip on's will suffice. Slip on's will give you a bit of a bump in power if the bike is tuned for them ( 5-6 hp) but being that you are dealing with D&D's, it's gonna be really LOUD. If you are just interested in D&D slip on's, but waant to keep your OEM header, let me know. I may be willing to trade you my D&D slip on's and some $$ for your full system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yanivic Posted May 11, 2006 Author Share Posted May 11, 2006 Beyond---> I have yet to try the full system, I will let you know if I want to trade my system for the canisters. The system I bought is not a fancy one with Carbon fiber, it's got a Aluminium cannister, just to let you know.... One reason, I am leaning towards the full system is the weight savings, I have to try it... V Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bajjer9 Posted May 11, 2006 Share Posted May 11, 2006 In a conversation I had with Mac I learned that the factory kit is the way to go..Do a search of "jet" by "MaXX" and it should turn up...with the factory kit there is no drilling required so if you dont like it just put it like it was..Mac had some excellent advice regarding the pilot jets as well..good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in PA Posted May 11, 2006 Share Posted May 11, 2006 I put several holes in each baffle from the back end and it sounds good to me, a little louder then stock but quieter than anything aftermarket. On the other hand D&D is considered the loudest made. The pilot screws are jetting screws they richen by turning out. The shims are little washers from Lowes .025 to .035 thick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yanivic Posted May 11, 2006 Author Share Posted May 11, 2006 Thank you Both.... Pete, like I stated earlier, I also have bought extra set of stock (drilled pipes), I will try them out too! Thanks for correcting me, with regards to the air screw setting.. V Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bajjer9 Posted May 11, 2006 Share Posted May 11, 2006 As I was bored I took the liberty of doing a search for you. I am the guy he needed to PM..I like to consider myself fairly smart but this guy put me to shame and I aint ashamed to admit it! I saw a drop of 2-5 MPG, but I don't really care, still look for gas around 180 Miles just like before. Anyway, if you buy the Factory kit, just change out the mains to match the European setting (up 1 size across the board) and then bump up the pilots. Move needles to Factory's advised setting and you will be set. This will also allow you to throw on slip-ons and not have to change anything. Just my $.02 MaXX If you look at a 1997-1998 shop manual, it gives you the US and European Jetting. I think it is bumping all 4 (so 140's, become 142's and 142's become 144's...) I don't know. I will have to check. I was just asked this in a PM and I can't remember what exactly it is. I need to respond to that PM too. MaXX With my MIGS, I found the European Jetting with then new needles/setting perfect for taking out the flat spots. MaXX If you own a Repair Manual, the 97-98 bird came with different Jetting for UK Models and US Models. The UK being Richer. Here are the Jetting settings. I bumped the Pilot Jet up 1 size to a 43 or 45 which took care of my hesitation between 1500 and 3000 RPMS too. It is an Option in the Factory Jet kit, but they do not provide the Pilots. US is: Carbs 1 and 4 = 140 Carbs 2 and 3 = 142 UK is Carbs 1 and 4 = 142 Carbs 2 and 3 = 145 MaXX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yanivic Posted May 12, 2006 Author Share Posted May 12, 2006 Thanks, I will have to try the 144s for the middle cyl and transfer over 142 to the outer cyls... V Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.