testrider Posted April 2, 2006 Share Posted April 2, 2006 Hi all, Based on recommendation here, I bought a new R1 regulator and today I just installed it. I noticed that the stock 97 XX regulator put out 14.5 V at idle and aroudn 15V at 5000 rpm while the R1 regulator put out 14V at idle and at 4000 rpm. Is this normal for a new R1 regulator? If yes, why is it so low? Is it enough to charge the battery and run all the lights and loads? For those of you who has the R1 r/r, could you take a quick measure to see what's yours at idle and 3k-4k rpm? Thanks! -mike- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in PA Posted April 2, 2006 Share Posted April 2, 2006 Yes it does put out slightly less voltage, no worries. Mines been doing fine for years/ and lots of miles now. Only need 13 volts going in to charge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhawkxx Posted April 2, 2006 Share Posted April 2, 2006 Testrider, did you change yours just to be safe? The old one still good? If so, do you want to sell it to me? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xrated Posted April 2, 2006 Share Posted April 2, 2006 Any voltage reading that is HIGHER than the battery voltage reading.....will charge the battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
testrider Posted April 2, 2006 Author Share Posted April 2, 2006 Any voltage reading that is HIGHER than the battery voltage reading.....will charge the battery. Then it must take longer to charge the battery than the stock R/R? Anyway, the hardest part of installing it was to remove my Givi rack before I can remove the plastic. It was really a pain :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amherst XX Posted April 3, 2006 Share Posted April 3, 2006 What year R1 r/r did you use? I want to have one on hand for when my r/r goes and was wondering which year R1'a to look for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
testrider Posted April 3, 2006 Author Share Posted April 3, 2006 What year R1 r/r did you use? I want to have one on hand for when my r/r goes and was wondering which year R1'a to look for. Mine is a 97 XX and I got a 01 R1 R/R part # 4JH-81960-01-00 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RodeRash Posted April 3, 2006 Share Posted April 3, 2006 When the Reg/Rec fails, most of the time, your system overcharges. Limiting voltage is the primary job of the Reg/Rec. That's why they get so hot. Symptoms include blown light bulbs, (dash bulbs go first) and a cooked battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amherst XX Posted April 3, 2006 Share Posted April 3, 2006 Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shovelstrokeed Posted April 3, 2006 Share Posted April 3, 2006 Just for reference, I checked my battery voltage today using the diagnostic mode on my GPS. At idle, with GPS, V1, XM radio and Gerbings heated liner working at about 30% through Heat Troller I had 12.90 volts. Ran the engine up to 2000 RPM and 13.4 volts, at 4K, voltage was 14.5 volts. I'm changing out the regulator (mines an 01). I don't want my system voltage that high. As I understand it, the R1 will produce a steady output between 13.9 and 14.1 volts, much better and easier on the voltage regulators in the rest of the electronics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
testrider Posted April 4, 2006 Author Share Posted April 4, 2006 Just for reference, I checked my battery voltage today using the diagnostic mode on my GPS. At idle, with GPS, V1, XM radio and Gerbings heated liner working at about 30% through Heat Troller I had 12.90 volts. Ran the engine up to 2000 RPM and 13.4 volts, at 4K, voltage was 14.5 volts. I'm changing out the regulator (mines an 01). I don't want my system voltage that high. As I understand it, the R1 will produce a steady output between 13.9 and 14.1 volts, much better and easier on the voltage regulators in the rest of the electronics. Thanks. These measurements were made with your OEM Honda regulator, right? The R1 r/r I just installed gave me around 14V at idle and 4000 rpms, with just the headlight and tail light. When I hit the brake, it gave me 13.7V so it seems that the R1 r/r can go below 14V but not more than 14V. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shovelstrokeed Posted April 4, 2006 Share Posted April 4, 2006 Yes, that was with the OEM regulator. I regularly ride long distances at 5K+ RPM for tank after tank. That high a voltage, even with the accessories running, will eventually 'cook' the battery. I just did 1260 miles in the last 2 days. Plan is to check the battery for electrolyte level tomorrow. My old ZX-11 cooked its battery dry in 900 miles due to the same problem. I'll keep you posted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
testrider Posted March 7, 2009 Author Share Posted March 7, 2009 x Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVLXX Posted March 7, 2009 Share Posted March 7, 2009 Nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dehning Posted March 7, 2009 Share Posted March 7, 2009 I'm in the process of fixing up a '91 VFR750 (to keep the '02 Bird company!) The single biggest weakness on those VFRs is the RR (Which looks very similar to the Bird's) I got an '06 CBR600 RR off ebay for $14.95, it nice big fins and fits great in the same space on the VFR. Had to change the plugs, but it works great. Just FYI Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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