EVLXX Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 Who here mounts and balances there own tires... I've decided this is my next project... building my own Bead Braker, balancer, etc. I'm tired of paying $45 per tire.... and the last time they scratched the shit out of my rim and Denied the whole thing.... assholes.*ARGGGGG!* So now I've got a 6" gash in my powder coat! :evil: The only thing that's got me still concerned is the Mounting part. Should I buy some spoons (Tire Irons) or not. I've read some posting that say those are bad for tubeless tires, as they may damage the beed... :? I can see both sides to that argument, but can't decided what to think. And I don't want to buy that huge contraption that J.C. Whitney sell either... I don't have the room in the garage for that. About those bead breakers.... if you have one, what DON'T you like about it. Can you show me a picture of it. Like I said, I'm going to build my own, but I don't want to reinvent the wheel here... so all the input I can get, both good and bad, will be greatly appreciated. As for the Balancing.... well that's the easy part. No questions there yet. Thoughts, concerens, sugestions... ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 http://www.clarity.net/~adam/tire-changing-doc.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rockmeupto125 Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 The hardest part is breaking the bead. The tires are easier to mount than a stiff 70's vintage motocross tire. No problem using the spoons. If you have all your ducks in a row, they slide on pretty reasonably. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVLXX Posted January 12, 2006 Author Share Posted January 12, 2006 So Tim, I take it you change your own tire then? Seeing how you do everything else to your bike, I probably already know the answer to that question. And do you pretty much follow those direction to the T, or do you have some more insight ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVLXX Posted January 12, 2006 Author Share Posted January 12, 2006 The hardest part is breaking the bead. This is what I was aftraid of... There seems to be about ten different ways that poeple recommend doing it, from hydrolic presses... to home made pinch blocks. So I'm hoping for more opinions in this area. Seams like the Hydro Press would be a pain in the ass... and slow. And don't get me wrong, I change Automotive tires at work, with a Air operated machine. It always wants to slide off the bead... so I,m sure tose pinch block clamp thingies will probably want to do trhe same. So... what do you use or do... to break the bead ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 I use one of these, works beautifully- http://www.aerostich.com/catalog/US/Bead-B...er-p-16835.html More later, have to go to work right now..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVLXX Posted January 12, 2006 Author Share Posted January 12, 2006 Yep... this is pretty much what i was thinking about making for a bead breaker, Light, small, easy to store someplace, etc. Question though... does the little tooth try and slide back down the side wall, or does it actually bite into the Bead ? Seams like as long as the pivot point is in between the rim and the pivot point of those things, it would want to push towards the bead. PS. Go to work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matey_peeps Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 http://www.clarity.net/~adam/tire-changing-doc.html That's probably the best tire tutorial out there. This is your bead breaker. No need to buy some big fancy expensive deal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in PA Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 http://www.pbase.com/fredharmon/tirechange This is what I do but I have mine bolted to a 3/4in. plywood board so it all can be put away for storage. I just use the long arm for bead breaking not for tire removal. I just use tire irons and the stand as a holder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dano Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 Get the harbor freight stand and MC attachment. @ $100 Get some good tire irons, at least 3 and some rim savers. Tie a string to each rim saver incase they fall in, much easier to retrieve. If you're spending $45 per wheel you're ahead after two changes. The bead breaker is not the best but it does work once you get the hang of it. Some guys just use a big ass C clamp to break beads. The real issue is to have something that holds the tire/rim firm cause you gotta use some muscle to get the bead over the edge. If you really want to make one, there are plenty of articles out there using old car rims and such to make a holder-clamp fixture. Oh yeah, when you install the new tire, make sure you have the tire rotation right on the rim... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVLXX Posted January 12, 2006 Author Share Posted January 12, 2006 Thanks for the pictures Pete, That gives me some...... more ideas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BDAZ XX Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 I need to get set up with that stuff as well. I only pay $20 to change a set and thats why I haven't gotten anything yet. This year I'll be changing alot more tires. You could always do what I did as a kid. I use to put the tire under the edge of front tire of my truck and carefully drive onto the tire to break the bead on all my old race bikes. :wink: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVLXX Posted January 12, 2006 Author Share Posted January 12, 2006 2 years ago the shop here in town would changes 1 tire for $25. Then they closed... :roll: last year $35 at the next closet shop... 12 miles. this year $45... at 12 miles and 18 miles away. :? And that's if I take them the wheel already off the bike, and wait... at least an hour. :roll: So... I'm thinking if I do this right... I can probably buy enough equipment to get me started antway.... off of the cost of 1 set of tire changes. ($90) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartonmd Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 I have the Harbor Freight manual tire changer with motorcycle wheel attachment... I paid $70 for it, but it's gone up to $100 since then I've heard... I also just got a balancer from this guy (item # 4604239103) which looks to be AWESOME (recieved it yesterday) although I haven't used it yet... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JB4XX Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 Mike, That's the same balancer I use. You'll be happy with it! I use the Harbor freight setup too. Works just fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GadgetXX Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 I use a Coats 5050 rim clamp machine. It is an automotive machine that has attachments for cycle wheels. I also have an auto balancer, but I need to get the adapters for it to fit cycle wheels. Works great, but takes up lots of space in the garage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RC Randy Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 You might want to check out http://www.tireqwik.com/tireqwik/index.html I purchased the Deluxe Kit with all of the stuff, and it worked quite well. I know at $200 bucks it will take a while to pay off, but it beats the hell out giving my local stealership business. Unless you buy them there, they won't even mount tires. I also found that a pieces of a plastic milk carton folded and doubled, makes great rim protectors. They work better than the thicker ones that came with the above kit, because they aren't nearly as thick, and gives you more room for the tire levers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragonslayer Posted January 14, 2006 Share Posted January 14, 2006 These are not exactly cheap but I am sure that most would agree that it would pay for itself in a couple of years at $45.00 a wheel and this is what i use to mount mine since the dealer scratched the hell out of my rear wheel on the last change and only offered to take $5.00 off of the bill. In Fact the wheel shown on the changer on the opening page is mine before I purchased one of these. http://www.nomartirechanger.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVLXX Posted January 18, 2006 Author Share Posted January 18, 2006 Step one complete... Balancer Cones.... aren't they pritty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickrad Posted January 19, 2006 Share Posted January 19, 2006 setup I have FWIW.. http://www.tireqwik.com/tireqwik/ I have the standard set. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVLXX Posted January 20, 2006 Author Share Posted January 20, 2006 If there would be a suficiant interest... about 20 sets. I could have a small run of these cones made for $20 a set, plus shipping. The cones are 3" long, (I believe) 1 5/8" round, taper down to 5/8" at the smallest part of the cone, slide on a 1/2" shaft, and have a 1/4 - 20 hole for a locking screw. I'm going to look into finding some thumb screws, but I haven't found them yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhawkxx Posted January 20, 2006 Share Posted January 20, 2006 When you can, how about a photo with them on the wheel as it would be used, please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted January 20, 2006 Share Posted January 20, 2006 I believe he's aiming for somethng like this- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonW Posted January 20, 2006 Share Posted January 20, 2006 The cones are 3" long, (I believe) 1 5/8" round, taper down to 5/8" at the smallest part of the cone, slide on a 1/2" shaft, and have a 1/4 - 20 hole for a locking screw. Wow, he seems to know you pretty well, Tim. NBL, man. :wink: Now, so I don't get my post deleted :wink: , I'd probably be interested in a set of these. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted January 20, 2006 Share Posted January 20, 2006 Wow, he seems to know you pretty well, Tim. NBL, man. :wink: Now, so I don't get my post deleted :wink: , I'd probably be interested in a set of these. Damn...ziiiing, nice shot No worries on the deleting. If I suddenly went rogue and decided to start editing stuff that might reflect poorly on me, it'd be a full time job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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