v00d00child Posted November 14, 2005 Share Posted November 14, 2005 I've never heard when anyone's had their XX's valves drift out of spec. Anyone care to post the mileage at which their's needed adjustment? I'm about to turn over to 42K miles, with virtually no maintenance aside from consumables. I'm thinking baby needs to go in for a checkup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TechnoGecko Posted November 14, 2005 Share Posted November 14, 2005 IIRC someone had their bike in just after 40,000 and the valves were fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in PA Posted November 14, 2005 Share Posted November 14, 2005 "supposed" to be checked every 16k miles. I've checked mine on schedule and everytime they're in spec. I'm going to let the mileage run this time and not check them till next winter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John01XX Posted November 14, 2005 Share Posted November 14, 2005 checked mine at 35000 and was all perfect Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rockmeupto125 Posted November 14, 2005 Share Posted November 14, 2005 Checked mine at 115k and they were fine. Oh, wait.. :oops: I DIDN'T check mine at 115 and they seemed fine.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matey_peeps Posted November 14, 2005 Share Posted November 14, 2005 I checked mine at 25,000. What a waste of time. I'll do em again at 50K. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XX Posted November 14, 2005 Share Posted November 14, 2005 valve check? what's that? 48k and she still runs :wink: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Helvet Posted November 14, 2005 Share Posted November 14, 2005 80.000 and well within specs..... A motorcyclecourier in the UK did over 400.000 miles with his 1999 XX and needed all of 2 valve-adjustments....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BarryG Posted November 17, 2005 Share Posted November 17, 2005 You should check the valves every 3k mi and change the oil every 600. Lube the chain after every ride. Gotta go...haven't washed my hands in 10 MINUTES!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimXX Posted November 17, 2005 Share Posted November 17, 2005 I had my valves checked at 28,000 km and they were well within spec. This is an expensive service in Vancouver [$340CAD incl tax]. Is there any sound or feel that indicates when they are too tight [i am assuming they get tighter as the shims wear]? I just hate to pay that much when I oculd go 100,000 km without adjustments needed. On the other hand, having a piston hit a valve doesn't thrill me either. Any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porterb123 Posted November 17, 2005 Share Posted November 17, 2005 I had my valves checked at 28,000 km and they were well within spec. This is an expensive service in Vancouver [$340CAD incl tax]. Is there any sound or feel that indicates when they are too tight [i am assuming they get tighter as the shims wear]? I just hate to pay that much when I oculd go 100,000 km without adjustments needed. On the other hand, having a piston hit a valve doesn't thrill me either.Any suggestions? Shims do not wear much, they are under a bucket. The bucket rides against the cam lobe. Even with my old 1100F with the shims on top did not wear much if any. A tight valve will allow gases in the chamber to push back through the intake or exhaust at a time that they are not supposed to. Gas cutting of the valve or seats is the result....not much danger of valves and pistons colliding Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RodeRash Posted November 20, 2005 Share Posted November 20, 2005 I had my valves checked at 28,000 km and they were well within spec. This is an expensive service in Vancouver [$340CAD incl tax]. Is there any sound or feel that indicates when they are too tight [i am assuming they get tighter as the shims wear]? I just hate to pay that much when I oculd go 100,000 km without adjustments needed. On the other hand, having a piston hit a valve doesn't thrill me either. The valve adjustment in motorcycles that use shims usually get tighter, but not because of wear on the shims. It is because the valve itself tends to distort and "tulip". If they distort enough, they still won't hit the piston, but they will quit sealing properly, and you will loose compression. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rockmeupto125 Posted November 20, 2005 Share Posted November 20, 2005 Valve wear occurs on the face between the valve and the valve seat, where the metals meet to seal off the combustion chamber. As the valve and seat wear, the valve sinks deeper into the head when closed. This effectively lengthens the valve stem, and decreases the clearance. Once the clearance is zero, the valve starts to leak, allowing the flame and exhaust gas of combustion to flow past the valve edge, burning the valve. That's why valves get tighter, not looser as they wear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLY DVL Posted November 20, 2005 Share Posted November 20, 2005 That's why valves get tighter, not looser as they wear. Valve lash is entirely dependent on what part of the valve trane is wearing. Usually, it's the cam lobe & bucket which start to wear increasing the clearance in the valve trane requiring a larger shim to account for the wear. Yes, if the valve seat were soft enough the valve would begin to wear into the head resulting in too little clearance as rockme stated. However, I thought it was only the early to mid 90's Kawi's that had a soft head issue? Has anyone actually had to REDUCE the shim size on a bird? Kev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northman Posted November 20, 2005 Share Posted November 20, 2005 Has anyone actually had to REDUCE the shim size on a bird? Yes. 3 of my valves were on the tight side @25K miles. It is also highly unusual for the cam & bucket to wear before the face of the valve, and the valve seat, hence why valves tighten more often than loosen. Once a cam starts to wear, it's downhill fast as the hardening wears off. Just ask the ZZR guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmmb Posted November 20, 2005 Share Posted November 20, 2005 I'll chek it when my mecanics says :wink: In maintance manual don't say anything.... in mine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rockmeupto125 Posted November 20, 2005 Share Posted November 20, 2005 Valve lash is entirely dependent on what part of the valve trane is wearing. Obviously, that idea makes sense. But the part that most often wears is the valve and seat. Wear on the other valve train components is indicative of increased stress, poor oiling, or defective components, and as such, doesn't fall under "normal" wear. Valve/seat wear is normal, expected, and unavoidable.....that's why valves are made to be adjusted. Cam and follower wear may change the clearance, but as Chris said, that's a result of metal failure, not normal wear. When I see the cam or shim wearing, I know there's a problem. And while I'm sure they exist, I've never taken a worn shim out of an engine. The cam lobes will grind into paste before then, once the hardening gives way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLY DVL Posted November 20, 2005 Share Posted November 20, 2005 Has anyone actually had to REDUCE the shim size on a bird? Yes. 3 of my valves were on the tight side @25K miles. It is also highly unusual for the cam & bucket to wear before the face of the valve, and the valve seat, hence why valves tighten more often than loosen. Once a cam starts to wear, it's downhill fast as the hardening wears off. Just ask the ZZR guys. Really? So on the XX the shims actually have to be reduced to compensate for wear? Un"f***ing"beliveable!!! Who was the engineer that decided to use a soft valve seat? I've been adjusting valves in the automotive trade for 15 years and never had to loosen one! The only instance I've ever heard of removing or reducing shims was on the ZX's & ZZR's. So one can't even wait until thay start to tick, cause they won't if they're getting tight. Kev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StPeteXX Posted November 20, 2005 Share Posted November 20, 2005 You should check the valves every 3k mi and change the oil every 600. Â Lube the chain after every ride. Â Gotta go...haven't washed my hands in 10 MINUTES!!!! You mean that's not normal? :wink: Think I need to go wax the bike..it's been a few weeks Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hobicus Posted November 20, 2005 Share Posted November 20, 2005 I had mine checked at 50k: All were OK, except one intake. Cylinder 4 aw reading at 10/11. Replaced 2.00 shims wiht 1.95 shim, now reads at 15/16 Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bar10dah Posted November 21, 2005 Share Posted November 21, 2005 Haven't checked mine. I have 32K on the clock. I think I'll probably get them checked at around 60K, just to be safe... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magneto Posted November 21, 2005 Share Posted November 21, 2005 So with 11000 on mine I'm ok for awhile????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red J Posted November 21, 2005 Share Posted November 21, 2005 I checked mine at 27k when I had the head off. Seats looked good, no sealing problems. In fact, I did not lap any of the valves in. I decarboned them all, but kept them in a tray so that the holes were filled with their same valves. Springs, cams, lifters and lifter bores all looked good and within specs. All valves were slightly tight. A few of the exhausts were borderline out of spec, and one was out of spec. Adjusted them all, since I had easy access. J. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric_The_Jew Posted August 6, 2006 Share Posted August 6, 2006 I checked mine at 27k when I had the head off. Seats looked good, no sealing problems. In fact, I did not lap any of the valves in. I decarboned them all, but kept them in a tray so that the holes were filled with their same valves. Springs, cams, lifters and lifter bores all looked good and within specs. All valves were slightly tight. A few of the exhausts were borderline out of spec, and one was out of spec. Adjusted them all, since I had easy access. J. Wow, i'm REALLY impressed with what i'm seeing here. I had a Bandit 1200s, and those valves would get tight within 5,000 miles. Granted, the Bandit used a screw and locknut setup, but if the valves kept getting tight, then it was an issue of the valve face or valve seat wearing quickly. What kind of valves seats does Honda use on this bike? They must be tough as shit, because 25K and 50K miles with NO adjustments needed is almost unheard of on a high performance bike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceman_40 Posted August 6, 2006 Share Posted August 6, 2006 Wow, i'm REALLY impressed with what i'm seeing here. I had a Bandit 1200s, and those valves would get tight within 5,000 miles. Granted, the Bandit used a screw and locknut setup, but if the valves kept getting tight, then it was an issue of the valve face or valve seat wearing quickly. What kind of valves seats does Honda use on this bike? They must be tough as shit, because 25K and 50K miles with NO adjustments needed is almost unheard of on a high performance bike. Wow talk about digging a thread out from the past.... Not sure what they are using but with the exception of the CCT, stator and RR you'll find most things on the XX over engineered... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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