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Drastic Changes - is there a rule?


jimmystartup

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OK, time for a question for all your farkle-ophiles. I am awaiting the arrival of a full set of stainless lines (the Spieglers), new brake pads, new springs and the Wilburs shock. All of this is compliments of Warchild's excellent work setting up the GB's. :boobies:

Should I install it all at one time or do it piece by piece? Will I have trouble isolating any setup issues if I do it all at once or should I just go for it. Everything that I'm replacing is stock so I'm assuming there will be a big change in the overall handling. I'm just a little worried that I'll go somewhere and not be able to get back.

Oh, and not to beat a dead horse but can anyone suggest the correct tools I'll need to bleed the brakes? Don't worry, it'll be done under supervision! :oops:

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Brake pads are a piece of cake.

If I can do those, anyone can. No brainer.

My only regret when I had my suspension done (by friends) was that I did it all at once.

In retrospect I wish I had raised the rear first, saw how I liked it. THEN put the new front springs in.

The ride is suppose to change significantly with raising the rear (which I'm assuming the wilburs will do)

When they shimmed my rear, they also changed the front springs. So the back went up, and then the front went up also.

So I wasn't sure where the 'geometry' of the bike really was.

I then dropped the front 6mm and I think the bike is where I want it to be. I'm totally happy with the suspension changes, but it just took a little extra trial and error tinkering because I made multiple changes at once.

But just from my inept mechanical perspective, I would say with suspension, do 1 thing at a time to see how it changes the handling. Starting with the rear shock. Ride it like that for a while, and then do your springs. Then you'll know what the shock/ride height in the rear did vs. what the springs did to handling.

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Nik wrote:

Brake pads are a piece of cake.

If I can do those, anyone can. No brainer.

Changing oil is a no brainer too, except replacing drain plug part, eh Nik? :stickpoke: :P Damn, i can be a real asshole...

Talking about brake pads, i better check mine :roll:, and I just replace the rear tire, could've should've done it then :ohshit:

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What exactly was the story behind the stripped drainplug anyway since I'm being such a smartass?

There was no stripped drainplug. Just a stripped oil pan!

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Okydoky, this may be a galactically stupid question, probably, but what da f... is a 'stripped oilpan'. I thouht the only reason u replace an oil pan was a stripped drainplug or the gaskets went south or u hit something busting up the oilpan?

What part don't i get (or missed)?

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If the drain plug is stripped, you replace the drain plug.

If the oil pan is stripped you replace the oil pan.

What da f... is a stripped oil pan? One can strip bolts and nuts (and other thingys :boobies:). Boy am I slow on the terminology...

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IMO, install everything at once.

I spend a lot of time fine tuning a setup, anyway, so why waste time fine tuning the bike each time you replace something?

Just change it all, then zero in on your best setup once.

Sorry to hijack the thread, Bruce. :flipoff:

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Replacing the drain plug was a piece of cake...

Replacing the oil pan was a bitch!

How often you need to replace those? My owner's manual doesn't say anything about it. What tools do you need? I have extension arms for the socket set and a four feet pipe which slides over the extension arm. :twisted:

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IMO, install everything at once.

I spend a lot of time fine tuning a setup, anyway, so why waste time fine tuning the bike each time you replace something?

Just change it all, then zero in on your best setup once.

I'm with Chris on this one. Thats exactly what I would do.

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Bruce, put down the slushee- There's a threaded hole in the bottom of the pan, yes? It's aluminum, plug is steel, you do the math

_________________

-------------------------------------------

Behind every great man there's a woman rolling her eyes.

:ohshit: Tough days at work last week draining my limited gray matter and got myself confused. Behind every great man is himself rolling his eyes :roll: being so clever he outfoxed himself, alias brain fart :moon: ...

Thx Tim for the 2x4 up along aside the head, I had a 50/50 chance, and i knew that, just got it backass backwards in my own mind...

For some reason i had in my pissant mind that Nik, in his sandals, managed to strip a cheap steel drain plug misthreading it into an expensive aluminum oilpan hole :raped: only finger tight believing he is a overmuscled technical god that he is...

Now, I'm going to go upstairs and make my 1st slushee and fully appreciate my galactic stupidity...

Nik, u did use a new crush aluminun drainplug washer, right?

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You know you're NEVER going to live this down...

Gotta look at the good side... Noone will bug me to wrench on their bike for them!

But I can say I am really glad for the experience. I got my tool set up now. I won't delay maintenance anymore because I don't have the right things. It will save me a lot of money.

How often you need to replace those? My owner's manual doesn't say anything about it. What tools do you need? I have extension arms for the socket set and a four feet pipe which slides over the extension arm.

Well you know.. You really should inspect the inside of your oil pan from time to time. :P:P:P

Tools.. You'll need a 3/4" drive breaker bar. Don't worry about the torque wrench, it'll hold!

MUSCLE IT!!!

:D

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Should I install it all at one time or do it piece by piece? Will I have trouble isolating any setup issues if I do it all at once or should I just go for it. Everything that I'm replacing is stock so I'm assuming there will be a big change in the overall handling. I'm just a little worried that I'll go somewhere and not be able to get back.[/quote

Measure your ride heights front and back with you on the bike with stock parts in place.This way you will have referance point or baseline for future adjustments.

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Thats OK assuming the stock bike is set up optimally for his weight. If stock setup is off then the new set up would be off, assuming your going back to stock baseline settings.

The new shock should be built for weight and riding style. The forks should be set up the same way, per weight and riding style.

You can adjust rear and front, up or down AFTER you ride it, to see if she works.

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Oh, and not to beat a dead horse but can anyone suggest the correct tools I'll need to bleed the brakes? Don't worry, it'll be done under supervision! :oops:

Turkey baster and hose. Reverse bleed.

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