cbrman1100 Posted April 23, 2005 Share Posted April 23, 2005 OK, I'm nowhere near the level of some you guys (but I'm trying). Here's my problem with my '97 XX with about 13K miles on it: Upon startup this spring, it runs like shit!! Last ride of last season was fine. This year, it was very hard to start (1st time ever). Once it did start, I had to leave the choke open to keep it running. (despite potential plug fouling). When the bike reaches full operating temperature, the choke has to be left at about 1/2 postion. This will get the idle around 1000 - but it still sounds weird. Moving the choke even a hair lower causes an immediate engine stall (no sputter - just dies instantly). I filled the tank with fresh gas and took it for a little ride. When it's on the rode and the throttle is open, the bike stills run like one mean machine ( you gotta love a bike that runs great even when it runs like shit !!) So I decided to put new plugs and a new air filter in. While they were needed, the problem remains identical as before. So today I removed the tank and filter box so i could see the carbs and choke slider(hooked to carbs). The Choke lever from OFF to 1/2 position does nothing (almost no resistance on choke lever and no movement of cable at the bottom end). I don't remember the choke lever ever feeling like that before but it appears that moving the lever from 1/2 to full open does work the choke through the full range. I base that on the fact that on the choke slide bar(at the carbs) there are 4 slots (one for each carb) that have a screw threw them. The lever being moved from 1/2 to full open moves the bar from one extreme end of the slot to the other. (which makes me think that there's no cable adjustment problem like I originally thought). The lever action still doesn't seem right though-especially since moving the lever below 1/2 cause a stall! Anyways, now I'm thinking the carbs may be the problem but I am NO carb expert. Could old gas have gummed something up in one or more of the carbs? Pulling the carb, cleaning/rebuilding, and resyncing them is beyond my "comfort level". The only local NON dealer mechanic is out of business or I would have taken it there to begin with. My local dealer is a well known crook and that's why I decided to start the project on my own. DOHH! I'm stuck trying to decide which way to go. If I should put most of the bike back together and run something like SeaFoam through the system and that doesn't work, then I have to tear it all apart again and try the carbs. While the extra wrenching isn't a big deal, the fact I may have to get into carbs could be. If anyone has read this without falling asleep and is familiar with the carbbed version of the XX, I'd love an opinion on what the problem even is (besides me Thank God I've got an 1800 VTX to ride while I screw with this!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickcbr1100 Posted April 23, 2005 Share Posted April 23, 2005 You're right -classic gummed up carbs, stale fuel over the lay up has varnished up jets/passages, try Seafoam but be prepared to strip and clean the carbs if it doesn't work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airborneXX Posted April 23, 2005 Share Posted April 23, 2005 Sounds like you need a carb cleaning :cry: First did you try adjusting the idle speed? On my older bikes the first half of the choke movement gives you fast idle and the rest moves your choke plates so that part sounds normal. As far as doing the carbs yourself they are not difficult, as long as you don't separate them from each other! actually they are real easy to remove on these bikes as compared to my 82 900c. Find yourself a factory manual and take it into the "library" and go through the section for the carbs. That's how I learned. I was scared to death on the first set, but now it's no big deal just do one at a time and PAY ATTENTION!!! I have a manual here for the 97 if you have any questions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airborneXX Posted April 23, 2005 Share Posted April 23, 2005 Oh yeah and welcome to the funny farm. So much info. here it will make your head spin :twisted: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVLXX Posted April 23, 2005 Share Posted April 23, 2005 Yep... I garuntee you , you gummed up the carbs... ever heard of Sta-bil. Well now you have... so go buy some. Now for the bad news Your Pilot jets and your emuslsion tubes are plugged. You need to pull the carbs off and start cleaning. Sorry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrman1100 Posted April 23, 2005 Author Share Posted April 23, 2005 I didn't try adjusting the idle because the problem seemed to "severe" to be fixed by doing that. I read somewhere that trying to use the idle adjuster to correct problems was a bad idea. I'll try the seafoam but I'll mentally prepare myself for that not to work - looks like I need to get the service manual and just do it! I'm more concerned about the resyncing process than anything else. As far as I could tell, It looked like there's just 4 adjustable clamps holding the carb bank on...is that right?!? Thanks guys!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVLXX Posted April 24, 2005 Share Posted April 24, 2005 Well as long as you don't pull the carbs apart individually... you shouldn't really need to worry about re-synchronizing them. Heres my suggestion. Pull the Carbs all together, pull of the float bowls, remove both the mains and the pilots, remove the emulsion tubes. Spray everything down with Carb cleaner. Especially all of the little pin holes in the bottom of the carbs. You're mainly concerned with the bottom half of the carbs, because that's where the gas has been sitting and dried up. Inspect all the parts for any remaining foriegn matter or residues. Then reinstall everything. Should run as good as new. Goodluck, and remember where everything goes when you take it apart, or take photos. :wink: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in PA Posted April 24, 2005 Share Posted April 24, 2005 Sea Foam BTW is also a stabilizer, when Spring comes you just run it through and it wll also clean. I'm afraid your pilot jets are completely clogged, since it won't idle. I doubt the Sea Foam will work if it can't even flow through, but it's worth a try. If not get/download a manual and if you're careful it can be a DIY project. Welcome, and where are you located? Nobody's bike dies near me in PA, or I'd say bring it to me and I'd make quick work of her. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVLXX Posted April 24, 2005 Share Posted April 24, 2005 Sea Foam BTW is also a stabilizer, when Spring comes you just run it through and it wll also clean.I'm afraid your pilot jets are completely clogged, since it won't idle. I doubt the Sea Foam will work if it can't even flow through, but it's worth a try. If not get/download a manual and if you're careful it can be a DIY project. Welcome, and where are you located? Nobody's bike dies near me in PA, or I'd say bring it to me and I'd make quick work of her. 1st Is completely true.... you'll never get them completely clean unless you take them apart. And 2ndly....... Maybe that's because nobody wants you to work on their Bike. :wink: So they just don't tell you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in PA Posted April 24, 2005 Share Posted April 24, 2005 Fucker! :flipoff: :moon: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVLXX Posted April 24, 2005 Share Posted April 24, 2005 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrman1100 Posted April 25, 2005 Author Share Posted April 25, 2005 Special Thanks to Pete and EvlXX for some well timed humor!! I needed the laugh Last week it was 80F and today it's snowing again...so to answer your question Pete, I live in Ohio (Canton). I need a heated garage! It occurs to me that it sounds bizarre that someone can ride one of the fastest speed machines ever built without fear but is afraid to open up some carbs to clean!! Bullshit! You've convinced me to grow a pair and do it!! Thanks guys! PS Does anyone know where there's a downloadable version for carbed version? The manual on this forum is for the fuel injected only. If not, I'm going to pony up the bucks and just order one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hobicus Posted April 25, 2005 Share Posted April 25, 2005 Canton??? I'd be amazed if we didn't have an XXr in your area (NE Ohio, W PA) who wouldn't come over and help you for beer and maybe dinner. Tip: Update your profile and add your location to your profile. Welcome to the nuthouse! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in PA Posted April 25, 2005 Share Posted April 25, 2005 This weather does suck! I got out maybe 20 min. and had the rain chase me home again. If you pony up, buy the actual Honda manual. I've had bad luck with various mistakes in Haynes and Chiltons manuals through the years. http://www.hondadirectline.com/ Is probably the cheapest place to get it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tvking Posted April 25, 2005 Share Posted April 25, 2005 Lots of good advice. I'd open the carbs right off. In my experience you'll need more than carb clean to clean the pilot jets. A bristle from a wire brush works good or a torch tip cleaner is better. It could have gunked up the emulsion tube too but usually the fuel evaporates so it's below the tube before getting gooey. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hobicus Posted April 25, 2005 Share Posted April 25, 2005 The other thing I'd recommend is compressed air. Once you get the carbs off, and opened, make sure you can blow air through all of the openings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tvking Posted April 25, 2005 Share Posted April 25, 2005 The other thing I'd recommend is compressed air. Once you get the carbs off, and opened, make sure you can blow air through all of the openings. Only do this if you have removed the carb tops and slide/diaphrams. Otherwise you could pop a hole in a diaphram w/ the compressed air. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrman1100 Posted April 28, 2005 Author Share Posted April 28, 2005 Well, I ordered my service manual yesterday. When resyncing the carbs, how do you hook up the gas tank but keep it out of the way. (I'm assuming the bike needs to be running since you need vacuum) Any special tools required?? (besides someone that knows what they're doing?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tvking Posted April 28, 2005 Share Posted April 28, 2005 The carbs come off the engine as a set. To do what you need to do you don't need to seperate them. If you don't seperate them or go willy-nilly turning linkage screws on the carbs, you won't need to sync them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amherst XX Posted April 28, 2005 Share Posted April 28, 2005 hahahahahahahahahaha - willy nilly - hahahahahahaha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrman1100 Posted April 28, 2005 Author Share Posted April 28, 2005 I promise to keep my Willy from going Nilly. There are some other topics on this forum about carb syncing and some guys seem to think it should be done around every 8K miles. One Sadist says he does his every year !!!! :shock: I hope you're right !! Thanks for the advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tvking Posted April 28, 2005 Share Posted April 28, 2005 You could try a seach for carb sync. The manual has a pretty good explaination that should keep you out of trouble. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2equis Posted April 29, 2005 Share Posted April 29, 2005 how do you hook up the gas tank but keep it out of the way Motion-Pro makes a small auxillary tank you can hang over the bike like an IV - works great!!! I've synced the XX carbs 3 times and every time all 4 cylinders were within 1/4" of each other on the gauge before starting. If you have time and want to tinker, sync the carbs. But you probably don't need to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tvking Posted April 29, 2005 Share Posted April 29, 2005 isn't that thing $70 or some outrageous amount? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrman1100 Posted April 30, 2005 Author Share Posted April 30, 2005 JC Whitney sells it for $39. Looks like it comes with only one 1/4 line. When I took the lines off the tank, There was one 1/4 line but also 2 lines that were 5/8 OD (3/8 ID) that run to top of the carbs. How does that jug supply gas to those lines?? Until my manual gets here, I'm confused! Also, when you resync the carbs, is there any special tool required to reach the adjustment screws or do they happen to be the one thing on the XX you can actually get to easily Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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