GiveUp Posted June 12, 2003 Share Posted June 12, 2003 Friggin figures…. My second post would have to be a tech one. I just picked up my 1999 bird. It has 8k on it… so I take it out for a nice leisure crawl around the block (for those that never read my 1st post, I’m coming from a HD and this is my 2nd bike, so I’m going slow). I noticed it seemed a little jerky (figure it’s me getting used to a higher compression bike with 6 gears). Get back into the garage and start looking at the chain…. Is it normal to have about 2+ inches of deflection??? I’m thinking no, my HD was spec’d at ¾ to 1 before adjustment needed. The chain will touch both the chain guard and center stand if I tug it, so this has got to be way overdue for an adjustment. So the plan is new filter, plugs and oil plus the chain adjust. Does anyone know where to find the info for this online or a link to buy a service manual and an owner manual. I really wouldn't mind having a copy of each. Thanks, Jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted June 12, 2003 Share Posted June 12, 2003 If you've got DSL, I'd highly recommend checking out the "not automatic" thread. For the best way to change plugs, filter and oil, look on the main site, I believe it's all in the FAQ section. Chain slack should be 'bout 1 1/4". I'll dig out my manual and see if they have a web address or something in the book. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XX Posted June 12, 2003 Share Posted June 12, 2003 welcome! chain definitely needs tightening, i think the manual says 1 3/8" on sidestand but i usually take mine to 1" and I've been fine to 17k miles so far on the original. i'm betting its the FI twitchiness that is tweaking you. 2 alternatives - get used to it and get a steady hand, or get a power commander and map it out. enjoy! :grin: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted June 12, 2003 Share Posted June 12, 2003 One more thing, it'd be worth checking the throttle cables for excessive free play, a sloppy throttle can make the above mentioned jerkyness even worse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GiveUp Posted June 12, 2003 Author Share Posted June 12, 2003 Thanks guys, I'm sure alot of it is me needing a little saddle time. It is a big upgrade in power, FI is probably a bit more reponsive than the "volume control" on the old bike. I'm going to use it to commute, so it will see some slow stuff (oh well, what can you do). I'll try to useing the brakes to smooth it out some. I was doing fairly well with just clutch work towards the end... but your right, I basically riding it in most of the time in order to stays smooth. Just playing around and giving myslef time to get use to it... but for some reason I don't remember being this jerky on the 97 I rode. OK, found Carlos's write ups on plug, filter and oil. Nice! How about the chain adjust... anything special to be aware of? Anyone now how where to order service man or owners man? I'm guessing my local Honda dealer could order it, anywhere cheaper? Rockmeup, I'm 27. But my bro had a 68? Road runner with a 383 in it. But that was 86 or so and I was just a youngin. (edit... just looked at the not auto thread. heheh Good thing I have a burner and highspeed at work. ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhanxx Posted June 12, 2003 Share Posted June 12, 2003 Check on Ebay for Haynes manual. Use 'CBR1100XX HAYNES' for your search pattern. I have one of these and is more than adequate for DIY servicing plus has excellent wiring diagrams and generic useful tips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flk Posted June 12, 2003 Share Posted June 12, 2003 Welcome to the board. Till a couple years ago, I rode nothing but HD myself, got a beemer and then the bird just last year. Not looking back at all. One little thing that is different between tightening the chain vs. the belt or chain on an older HD is you spin the adjuster 'out' instead of 'in' to pull it back. Make sure to snug up the adjusters after you tighten up the axle nut. The adjuster marks aren't very reliable, either, so the first time you may want to keep an eye on how the chain tracks around the sprocket. No big deal. It takes a little bit to get used to a reliable bike, but it's worth it! Francis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RodeRash Posted June 12, 2003 Share Posted June 12, 2003 If the ride seems "jerkey", make sure you check your chain slack in a number of different places. If you find you have tight spots as well as the loose areas, you may need a new chain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Obby Posted June 12, 2003 Share Posted June 12, 2003 I have a '97 Bird. She's sensitive at low revs too. The Bird doesn't like to be babied. Keep the rev's up a little (above 3.5k rpm) and she's happy (less jerky). Otherwise, get use to working out that left hand to smoother her out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GiveUp Posted June 15, 2003 Author Share Posted June 15, 2003 OK, I figured I would post my findings for anyone that helped and/or might care. I adjusted the chain per the manual I downloaded (thanks for hosting that). So my second ride went MUCH better. Nice and smooth. With the exception of the really slower 1-2 grand 1st/2nd gear stuff all is much better. Need to work on my gear matching alittle but at least it isn’t as scary as it was with the loose chain. I took quite a bit of slack out of it. Also noticed brake pads are my next task… as in there isn’t any left on the back… and the front is close. Thanks for the help. Jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phil Posted June 16, 2003 Share Posted June 16, 2003 G'day Jason, Seems the bike you bought needs a once-over. If you're not mechanically inclined I'd take it to a mechanic who knows his shit about fast bikes (i.e. not hogs). When I bought mine second hand I had my mechanic look at it (free of charge) to make sure my ass wasn't going to skid down the road at 270kph! You don't want a wheel bearing to go when you hit the open road! Most likely he'll not onlyl tell you what you have to work on immediately but also how much life you can expect from tires, chain, pads, head bearings etc. Also he may give you some interesting performance tips (such as setting the right sag for your weight...). All the best, enjoy the bike and stay upright! Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.