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HELP!


N1K

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I discovered the oil pan is split. Starting at the bolt opening and extending about an inch under.

Fuckin Fuck...

It might have even been split last night when I over tightened it, or perhaps the oversize drain bolt split it...

I'm assuming the only thing to do now is to replace the pan...

Maybe i can still order on from ron ayers today. They open on saturday?

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Just checked, they are closed...

I think I'll order it online for delivery next week. Unless anyone has a quicker way to get one?

To replace the oil pan... Take off the exhaust, drop the pan, put sealant on new pan and bolt it back up???

What is the sealant I put around the pan called?

Anything special I need to know before I pull off the header/exhaust?

Which part number is it? Ron Ayers lists 2 separate ones (todd, thanks for the link)

http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/200_0351/oil...580&parent=5570

11210-mat-000

or

11210-mat-e20

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To replace the oil pan...  Take off the exhaust, drop the pan, put sealant on new pan and bolt it back up???

Yes, and be sure to torque the new pan in place. The most important is that everything is clean, clean, CLEAN!

There is an oil drain pipe that goes into the pan, so you'll need to lubricate that O-ring before installation.

What is the sealant I put around the pan called?

Use a quality RTV silicone (Fel-pro, or name brand). I just use a small film all round, with no gaps, then torque in place. If everything is clean, you don't need much sealer at all.

If at all possible, allow it to cure for an hour or more before filling it with oil.

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Looking at the service manual..

Do I need new o-rings for the oil return pipe? Or just use the existing...

Do I need new exhaust gaskets or just use existing?

And Do I really need to take everything off (upper cowl, radiator etc) like the service manual says, or is there an easier way?

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No need to remove the upper cowl and radiator. Lowers come off, then just loosen the top mounting bolts on the radiator and pop the lower radiator stay loose, pivot the bottom forward slightly and use a long extention to loosen the header bolts.

That will all make more sense once you start........

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Anything special I need to know before I pull off the header/exhaust?

I love you Nik but.......

Step away from the tools before somebody gets hurt!

But seriously,

Ayers should be able to help with the part#. My guess is there's a change from Carb to FI.

Order the pan, new drain plug and washer. O-rings for the oil return pipe and new exhaust gaskets(may not need them but good insurance)

Then borrow Chris's Torque wrench but make sure he's attached to it when it arrives.

Sit down and read section 4-4 and 4-7,8 of the manual. then read it again.

It's not a difficult job, just go slow and take your time. And follow the torque specs.

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Rad can stay in place if you remove the lower brace, and very carefully lower the header without dinging the rad.

Upper cowl can stay in place as well, and unless you tear the o-rings, you can re-use them. Just put on some silicone lubricant (KY will also work :lol: ) for re-installation.

You can either replace the exhaust seals, or put some high heat silicone on them for re-use. The Fel-pro copper shit works well there, and you don't need much, either.

Put some anti-sieze on the header studs when you re-install them, too.

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Looking at the service manual..

Do I need new o-rings for the oil return pipe?  Or just use the existing...

Do I need new exhaust gaskets or just use existing?

And Do I really need to take everything off (upper cowl, radiator etc) like the service manual says, or is there an easier way?

The O-ring is cheap. I'd get one just for the heck of it. Did you replace the exhaust gaskets when you installed the D&D? Either way, I've removed the pipes several times using the same gasket w/ no problem. Your call.

I just removed the lowers and the lower radiator mount so I could pivot the rad forward to get to the header bolts.

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Why are all you guys on the 'puter? You should be riding.  :D

Deb at the office and junior hasn't finished his chores yet.

But I did get the new EK on. :D it looks purty

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Why are all you guys on the 'puter? You should be riding.  :D

I'm between the computer and the garage. Garage is me putting the bike back together post plug/filter change and Pair plate installation, and I've been checking in here every so often to see if Nik has managed to crack his block yet :poke:

Riding first thing tomorrow :D

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Why are all you guys on the 'puter? You should be riding.  :D

:(:(:(:(:(:(

First REALLY nice day of the year.. waited all winter for this... now I sit...

FUCK...

I've been checking in here every so often to see if Nik has managed to crack his block yet  

Don't jinx me... :?

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Nothin' but love, buddy.

I'm sure it'll be fine. If you start on dismantling it today, feel free to give me a call with any questions, I'm at home for the rest of the evening.

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WOW. Cracked the oil pan.

So was the shop doing oil changes for you till now? Just wondering if there was some previous damage.

Get new O-rings.

I tried to reuse an O-ring when I did a starter on my Sabre. Leaked immediately. They take on a "set" and don't like to be changed.

I haven't yanked out my manual. There's no oil pan gasket?

I was out riding for 5 hours. Butts a little sore. needs broken in again from winter.

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Fuck it.

JB WELD that bitch and ride tomorrow.

You're getting a new pan anyways... so what if you jbweld the plug in place??

Oh.. :!: and order a new plug and crush washer while you're ordering the pan.

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JB WELD that bitch and ride tomorrow.

I've thought of that too. :?

This sucks... If this happend in october it would be bearable.. To have it happen in the spring is fricken torture.

I got ONE ride in last sunday.. I don't know if that's good or bad.

Good because I got to ride, or bad because I got "a taste"

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JB WELD that bitch and ride tomorrow.

I've thought of that too. :?

This sucks... If this happend in october it would be bearable.. To have it happen in the spring is fricken torture.

I got ONE ride in last sunday.. I don't know if that's good or bad.

Good because I got to ride, or bad because I got "a taste"

I would..... just keep checking for leaks and carry a extra quart of oil just incase.....

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the header gaskets are only 2something apiece from the stealer, probably cheaper from ayers. i would get 'em as long as your ordering from there.

i just pulled my single exhaust and put the stock header back on without new gaskets and i have a leak. now i have to pull it all back apart. get the gaskets (they're cheap anyway) and you may not have to do the job twice.

now for some good advice: stick to your little white collar job and quit working on your bike :poke:

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now for some good advice: stick to your little white collar job and quit working on your bike

I would...

If some of my blue-collar friends lived closer so I could pay them to come wrench my bike.

:lol:

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If someone is bored, can you look over my parts list and see if I got everything I need? I got the o-ring, 2 washers (so I have an extra for next time) 4 exhaust gaskets, oil pan, and drain plug (figured I'd get rid of the old drain plug even though its probably fine to reuse.

Fuck, I thought ron-ayers was quicker shipping then this... Is the only way to get it quicker going to a stealership?

41876946.jpg

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