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rim weight?


The Krypt Keeper

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I was curious of how much the rims weigh? This is with minus the rotors and cush drive.

Also curious on what kinda seat of the pants feeling would you get in acceleration by going to a lighter set of rims like OZ or PM's new racing rims.

Also wouldn't changing to lighter rims increase dyno numbers. Less spinning mass = quicker acceleration = higher HP numbers. Would it be significant like 3 - 5 hp gain or not worth a tinkers damn .5 - 1 hp.

Tossing around a few idea's for more vroom vroom :twisted:

Wheels, NOS, custom exhaust, maybe some engine work :shock:

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as you well know, lighter wheels are good for a lot of things. Increasing horsepower, not much I'd say. Increasing handling, a lot, I'd say. There are a whole lot of things a whole lot cheaper to increase your acceleration if that's what you want. Aftermarket wheels are pricey, but they look cool don't they :-D Still lookin at the Talledega's or have you found something else

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If you want the most bang for the buck, it is hard to beat NOS. IMHO.

+1

Espically on the FI models. 40 horse dry shot and a power commander with the fuel turned up a bit at 100% throttle. Any more that about 40 horses, and then you have timing issues so I've heard.

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So whats the best oil :razz: Just kidding

I have seriously thought about a little bottle to spray.

Right now I am working on building a custom exhaust for the bird. Making a full system and retaining the dual pipes. Doing this I am looking for a aftermarket header, and have my father-in-law do some fancy pipe welding.

Make the exhaust free flowing and also do away with "T" in the stock header. Make it more of a "Y" for the dual pipes.

Then it will be off to the dyno shop to get a PCIII dyno tuned with the new exhaust.

Where would you hide a NOS bottle? I wouldn't want a big ass bottle sitting outside the bike.

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A friend of mine has an air tank for his air shifter hidden in front of the battery box on his bird. You know, the place above the trans where that huge void is. It would be a great place to hide a nitrous bottle especially if you painted the bottle flat black or something. It would work good there if you didn't do a lot of drag racing where you had to fill it a few times a day.

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Dry is where just nitrous is sprayed. A lot cheaper to buy and install.

Wet is where nitrous and fuel is sprayed.

In most cases, a wet system uses a nozzle for each cylinder at the carb or throttle body that sprays both fuel and nitrous. You need another fuel pump for the fuel side of the system as FI pressure is too high. You can get more power out of the wet system and better distribution of the nitrous itself.

Dry systems usually spray nitrous into the airbox or ram air tube. No fuel and only 1 nozzle. A lot easier to install and tune. They use the Power Commander to richen up your fuel injection at 100% throttle opening. You don't want to spray nitrous under 100% throttle opening anyway. Your map for the nitrous will be the same as now, except for the 100% setting so your driveability won't really suffer.

You can go up to 60 or maybe 80 horsepower on a dry shot where as a wet shot you can go up to whatever your motor will handle. It's not uncommon to see 150 horsepower wet shots on built motors. With the stock pistons, I personally wouldn't go much over 60 horsepower and that's about the limit for the stock clutch anyway.

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Say you got the bird in 5th or 6th gear. You got the throttle pinned and your at say.. 100mph on a closed coarse thats pretty straight and narrow :cool:

When you hit the "Go Baby Go" button what kinda reaction do you instantly feel?

What happens if you hit it not pinned WFO :?:

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You feel it instantly. No lag or anything. Most systems are setup so that you can only spray at 100% throttle with a switch on your carbs or throttle bodies that won't let the solenoid open. More of a safety thing. Say you are sitting in traffic and accidentally hit the button and then bam, right into the car in front of you. It probably wouldn't hurt much if you hit it at 80% but think of a wet shot. You hit it at idle and it shoots 80 Hp worth of fuel and nitrous in a idling motor. Think about it.

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The rim weight thing was done recently in Sport Rider.

I'll try to look up the issue.

It's called moment of inertia. A lighter rim WILL give bigger #'s on the dyno but I don't know by how much.

For the price of these rims you could install a dry NOS system. (I think)

BTW: the big void over the tranny is where Cali bikes have a gas vapor recovery tank. :roll: Glad I don't live there or didn't buy a used Cali. bike.

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Found the article. They used a Gixxer 1K.

Stock rear rim weighs 16.8 lbs. Lightest rim in the test was 10.8 lbs. at $3400 :shock: carbon fiber. A couple of rims they tested were heavier then stock. :???:

Just think what else you could do with $3400.

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Guest rockmeupto125
It's called moment of inertia. A lighter rim WILL give bigger #'s on the dyno

So will a worn out tire, it is lighter.

Yeah, but a worn out tire won't grab the drum as well.............so there. :razz:

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Thanks for all the replies. :wink:

I will look into the dry systems. Don't know if I will go that route or not. I am always looking for my next bike. I will keep the bird but it will be demoted to be the project bike. So will be putting some time and $$$ in mods.

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