N1K Posted December 2, 2004 Share Posted December 2, 2004 How hard is it? Can someone give a quick explanation (for changing the front)... Rear is self-explanatory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matey_peeps Posted December 2, 2004 Share Posted December 2, 2004 Nuttin to it G. Take of the countershaft cover and slave cylinder off, they're just some M6 bolts. There's also a little metal doohickey that holds the sidestand switch wire out of harm's way, keep an eye on it as it could get dropped and disappear into the ozone. Put the bike in gear and get yer breaker bar out and undo the nut. If you're turning the engine over trying to get the bolt out of the countersproket, stick a hammer handle or appropriately sized piece of wood thru the rear wheel to lock it against the swingarm. Hopefully you havn't removed the chain yet. You don't even need to take off any bodywork. A note of caution, wrap a couple zip-ties around the slave to keep the piston from popping out under spring pressure. This could save you a headache and cleanup, and I almost learned this the hard way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Byrdman Posted December 2, 2004 Share Posted December 2, 2004 He's right about the zip ties. I learned the hard way! At least now I have fresh clutch fluid though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northman Posted December 3, 2004 Share Posted December 3, 2004 I left my slave on the cover, and it doesn't extend far enough to come apart. Just remove all of the perimeter bolts, and the slave will stay in place with the single bolt still holding it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XX Posted December 3, 2004 Share Posted December 3, 2004 piece of cake. hardest part is getting the bolt loose, just because it's torqued up pretty tight. take the hints above. excellent mod for the $ and effort. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted December 3, 2004 Share Posted December 3, 2004 Rear is self-explanatory. You probably don't need to do the rear, unless you have a lot more miles on that thing than I thought, or you're planning a gearing change. It's good for at least two chains. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xxexcess Posted December 3, 2004 Share Posted December 3, 2004 I have always thought the reason for changing chain and sprockets is that new chain on old sprockets causes excessive wear on the new chain, because the the old chain and sprockets have worn into each other (if that last comment makes sense). Iain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rockmeupto125 Posted December 3, 2004 Share Posted December 3, 2004 That last comment does make sense. However, the rear sprocket on the XX seems to hold up quite well, and if its not deformed, should have no ill effect on a new chain. An original rear should be good for two or even three chains. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Krypt Keeper Posted December 3, 2004 Share Posted December 3, 2004 My rear sprocket looks damn near brand new with 11,500 miles on it. Chain stay adjusted, cleaned, and lubed properly and has no dry or binding links. Will probably last all next season, and then I will replace all 3 at once. How much does do changing the sprockets from -1 front and +1 rear effect the speedo? Really wouldn't want to loose space under the seat to a yellow box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N1K Posted December 3, 2004 Author Share Posted December 3, 2004 You probably don't need to do the rear, unless you have a lot more miles on that thing than I thought, or you're planning a gearing change. It's good for at least two chains. Cool... Saves having to pull the rear tire... I've only got 18,000 miles on the bike. Anyone got a part # and a place to buy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhawkxx Posted December 3, 2004 Share Posted December 3, 2004 I think I got mine from Two Brothers. Sorry, no number. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demon Posted December 3, 2004 Share Posted December 3, 2004 Going to a -1 on front and a +1 on back changes the speedo about 8% from stock. With the built in 7% error or so, the total error should be about 15%. So it will read about 7 MPH fast at 50 MPH, 15 MPH fast at 100, 21 MPH fast at 150, and about 25 MPH fast at 175. It's not really a problem with me at legal speed. Your speedo says you're going faster than you really are. As a rule, at legal speed, I keep my speed about 5 MPH over the limit when needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hobicus Posted December 3, 2004 Share Posted December 3, 2004 Nik: You planning on changing the number of teeth, or just need to replace the sprocket since you just put a new chain on? If you're not changing teeth, then go with a stock sprocket. It costs a touch more, but it's got rubber dampers on it that makes it run quieter. I'm having trouble finding the part number on Ron Ayers. Seems to have the whole set, but not the individual parts. The sprocket from my dealer cost me I think $27 or so, after my discount. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N1K Posted December 3, 2004 Author Share Posted December 3, 2004 If you're not changing teeth, then go with a stock sprocket. It costs a touch more, but it's got rubber dampers on it that makes it run quieter. Staying stock... $27... hmm cheap! good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
birdie_xx Posted December 3, 2004 Share Posted December 3, 2004 Here is the part number from RA.... Part Number: 23801-MAT-760Description: SPROCKET (17T) Price: $44.47 Ask Rich to buy it for you ...... :wink: Cheers, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonW Posted December 4, 2004 Share Posted December 4, 2004 I left my slave on the cover, and it doesn't extend far enough to come apart. Just remove all of the perimeter bolts, and the slave will stay in place with the single bolt still holding it. Yep, what he said......and remember, do NOT touch the clutch lever once it's all pulled apart! While you're in there, you might as well clean out all the goop from the chain, and also pull out the clutch lifter rod, clean it off, and regrease it before installing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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