bhanxx Posted October 7, 2004 Share Posted October 7, 2004 '02 XX stalling at normal freeway speeds 2 days in a row now, 2nd day about 2 miles further than 1st day. 1st time w approx. 35 miles off full tank (10 miles from beginning of ride), 2nd time w approx 85 miles (same tank of gas, approx. 12 miles from beginning of ride). This has happened 3 previous times, but w no consistency. I think EFI light is coming on solid, but not exactly sure when. Everytime b4 it happens there is a slight lean surge that increases intensity till what i would call a stagger. I have been turning key off and coasting to stop, most times turning key on and she starts right up and goes fine. It seems to be gradually getting more consistent on lean surge/stagger. I will ass/u/me fuel starvation is the problem (bike runs perfect otherwise). It has full yoshi, k&n (recently cleaned/oiled), pc3 and 13k miles. I have a magnetic tankbag (Oxford Humpback) that sits on top of gas cap (same tankbag on my other '02, never had this problem, so will ass/u/me tankbag not problem). I read the link http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forum/viewtopic.p...ight=starvation describing similar problem and suggestioins, but still have a couple questions (i'm one of those computer nerds too :roll: ). 1. Checking/cleaning gas cap, exactly what am I looking 4 and how do i clean vents? i popped cap quick and there is some grunge around lip area, but left as is till used guys got back at me b4 i destroyed the evidence. 2. More detailed instructions how to check gas tank vent (mucho please w sugar on it). 3. Is partially clogged fuel filter a potential culprit that is gradually get worse at a rising rate? Let me guess, fuel filter is inside tank, big $ job, right? 4. Other thread suggested leaving spare key in tank lock, open when problem starts occuring to unlock/crack cap to see if problem resolved. Did I read that right? Is there anything i should be concerned about? 5. Any other suggestions mucho appreciated. Mucho thanks in advance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickrad Posted October 7, 2004 Share Posted October 7, 2004 SELL IT! Your tire is cupped! :razz: :razz: :razz: :razz: :razz: No, seriously, you could possibly have a vent hose clogged or kinked. I dunno if it's that simple of a fix or not but it costs nothing to try that. It is only two bolts to remove to lift the tank. Once you are there the filter is easy to get to. Does it start right back up once it's stalled? I dunno how handy you are with your tool :shock: but if you need help let me know. I can swing by & help you take a looksee. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhanxx Posted October 7, 2004 Author Share Posted October 7, 2004 Yep, starts right back up after stalling. NO, I not that handy with tools, esp. when it comes to this type of thing. And yes, u can stop by and have a looksee, I installing other toys on it this afternoon/evening, so will be around. Going on trip starting tomorrow for the weekend. I'll PM u my home phone, cell phone and address. Damn thing has stalled both times on 35W South in heavier traffic, not exactly my idear of excitement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rockmeupto125 Posted October 7, 2004 Share Posted October 7, 2004 Other thread suggested leaving spare key in tank lock, open when problem starts occuring to unlock/crack cap to see if problem resolved. Did I read that right? Is there anything i should be concerned about? Just do it and see if it works. Changing fuel filter is annoying, but hardly difficult. I'd suggest you release the tank and work on it upside down rather than draining the gas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlphaBird Posted October 8, 2004 Share Posted October 8, 2004 Sounds like your PC3 (namely the ground wire is loose)---check it--I had the same prob---the ECU and the PC3 were just bouncing around in the tail section as the rubber band thingy broke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhanxx Posted October 10, 2004 Author Share Posted October 10, 2004 It stall 5 times today on about a 150 mile trip. It ran fine 1st 50 miles on less than 1/2 full tank, refueled to about 2/3 full and stalled again 22 miles down the road, restarted, ran 2 miles, stalled, opened/closed fuel cap ran father but started staggering and couple more stalls opening/closing fuel cap each time. Finally left fuel cap cracked open and didn't stall after that and seemed to have more/crisper power, but that was probably only about 15 miles. Got home, siphoned tank, and checked vent hoses. Bigger one (open end under tank) blew ez and felt air coming out of lower fairing. Pulled smaller one off tent vent nipple and blew it, harder, but hear/feel air moving but significantly lesser volume. Then put some tubing onto tank vent nipple and blew it. With fuel cap closed could blow it for short while and no more, put open end tubing next to check and could definitely feel it releasing air for about 5 seconds b4 stopping. With fuel cap open, no blow back. Seems right to me assuming when fuel cap closed it should be an air tight enclosure. IS THIS NORMAL? Sounds like your PC3 (namely the ground wire is loose)---check it--I had the same prob---the ECU and the PC3 were just bouncing around in the tail section as the rubber band thingy broke Visibly checked ground (to - post on battery) and everything looked/felt very solid and clean. The PC3 was NOT under strap but was partially velcroed so it was probably flapping like on a hinge. Putting back together and will try to get test ride in b4 i have to go out tonight. Any help mucho appreciated, i hate being parked along side a road even for short time for obivious saftey reasons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XXodus Posted October 11, 2004 Share Posted October 11, 2004 If you have a pc3, and have checked the vent hose and fuel filter, the symtoms sound similar to an issue I had this spring. My issues was not a faulty ground on the PC3, but a bad PC3. I think dynajet had a bad batch of pc3's with serial ports. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northman Posted October 11, 2004 Share Posted October 11, 2004 It still sounds like a tank venting problem to me, but the PC is easy enough to eliminate if you want to try that, first. The large hose is the overflow, so it will flow freely, but the smaller hose is your vent, which is inside of your tank. Meaning, if you had the cap closed, you could create a vacuum by sucking on that hose, or blocking it off when the bike is running. Not sure if the '02 is different, but on my '00 the vent hose comes down to a "T". One end vents near the throttle bodies, and the other is routed through a bracket on the right frame spar, then comes to the left where it's routed between the water pump & clutch slave. If venting is narrowed down as the problem, raise your tank, and remove the vent line from the tank. This will eliminate the hoses as being the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhanxx Posted October 11, 2004 Author Share Posted October 11, 2004 Will the oem efi black box compensate for a full Yoshi RS3 and K&N air filter? What is the best way to disconnect/reconnect PC3 for testing purposes? The irratic nature of the problem tends to lead me to believe PC3 is bad, esp. since others have similar problem. Plus, if venting problem, stalling should be more consistent based on fullness of tank. Testing in earnest begins after work today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northman Posted October 11, 2004 Share Posted October 11, 2004 Will the oem efi black box compensate for a full Yoshi RS3 and K&N air filter? Close enough. You won't be causing damage by running without one, but might be off on your mixtures a bit at certain rpms/throttle settings. What is the best way to disconnect/reconnect PC3 for testing purposes? Turn the key off, disconnect the PC at both ends, and plug the ECU back in. Done. I can do mine without removing the cowl, but you may have to remove yours if it's difficult to get at. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhanxx Posted October 11, 2004 Author Share Posted October 11, 2004 disconnect the PC at both ends I think u mean the in-line harness, basically figure A - C in reverse? http://www.powercommander.com/maps/install...ll/I113-211.pdf XXodus, did u have to buy a new PC3, or did PowerCommander replace it as a defect they took responsibility for? :grin: My confidence is rising i'll exorcise this gremlin :twisted:, mucho thanks on the help everyone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rockmeupto125 Posted October 11, 2004 Share Posted October 11, 2004 Finally left fuel cap cracked open and didn't stall after that and seemed to have more/crisper power Leave the fuel cap open and head out again. Don't introduce extra data to the equation. If anything, make sure that your PC is accessible to remove. That way, if after 50 miles out with the fuel cap open it stalls, you have something else to test on the way back....because you will have ruled out the venting. Also....don't forget about the fuel filter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickrad Posted October 11, 2004 Share Posted October 11, 2004 Will the oem efi black box compensate for a full Yoshi RS3 and K&N air filter? It will work, it just won't be perfect. If you are worried about it I'll swap ya my stock system for that Yosh. :twisted: Testing in earnest begins after work today. I'll need directions. :razz: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhanxx Posted October 11, 2004 Author Share Posted October 11, 2004 Rick, I'll PM u directions/phone #s. I can be home by 2:30pm. Perfect day for a ride/test. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickrad Posted October 11, 2004 Share Posted October 11, 2004 Good cuz I did a search for Earnest, MN and this is all that came up: I guess I went to the wrong house on Saturday :razz: There were 3 matches returned. Please choose one. Results 1 through 3 shown: Earnest Corner, ME, Penobscot, US Earnestville, MO, Dallas, US Earnestville, PA, Centre, US « New Search :???: :poke: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhanxx Posted October 11, 2004 Author Share Posted October 11, 2004 Do the PA one and say hi to Joe 4 me! I ass/u/me the one I PM'd u worked for Burnsville MN. I'm probably about a 1/2 hour from you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XXodus Posted October 13, 2004 Share Posted October 13, 2004 dynojet replaced it for free... after having the bad one in their hands longer than I orignally had it. It was purchased in november of last year and I was trying to figure out the problem from march til june (I'm not a wrench and the dealer wouldn't help cause a speed shop installed it). Dynojet had my pc3 from june until after nexxt before it was replaced... god I missed it!!!! The bike runs so much better with it (smoother, throttle response, seat of the pants, etc). Dynojet was trying to get rid of the pc3's with serial cables. At the time they wouldn't give you a new pc3 with USB until after 3 months. They could have replaced it with a rebuilt serial model if they had any... but they didn't. I personally don't understand why they didn't rebuild my old one, but that's another question I didn't ask. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhanxx Posted October 13, 2004 Author Share Posted October 13, 2004 :grin: Problem has been diagnoised w about 98.8390203% certainity. Pulled the PCIII harness and reconnected oem plugs. Took it out for a test w rickrad riding shotgun. All the lean/surge, stumbles, staggers and stalls disappeared. Have filled to brim and everything hunkydory. :grin: Thanks 4 info XXodus. I've started a email exchange w Dusty Schaller @dynojet. He said it would run quite a bit richer and to let them know what I find out. Hope they replace it free like yours. rickrad could smell she was running plenty rich (or was that the leftover Hormel chili heavy on the tabasco i had 4 lunch) :shock: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rockmeupto125 Posted October 13, 2004 Share Posted October 13, 2004 Glad to hear that you've isolated the gremlin. Thanks for updates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickrad Posted October 13, 2004 Share Posted October 13, 2004 was that the leftover Hormel chili heavy on the tabasco i had 4 lunch :shock: I thought it smelled funny for exhaust :shock: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhanxx Posted October 19, 2004 Author Share Posted October 19, 2004 Okydoky, just got off the phone w Dynojet and got my RMA#. They just want me to send in just the black box, no cabling or wiring, to diagnois it. That should make things a lot easier 4 me. It would appear i have the USB flavor since the speed shifter stopped working when I disconnected / pulled the PCIII harness outta the oem harness. Bird flying perfect, she just smells like ripe Hormel chili! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northman Posted October 20, 2004 Share Posted October 20, 2004 It would appear i have the USB flavor since the speed shifter stopped working when I disconnected / pulled the PCIII harness outta the oem harness. Speed shifter? :???: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhanxx Posted October 20, 2004 Author Share Posted October 20, 2004 Yep, tube-like sensor attached to directly to foot shifter bolted to main frame w bright Dynojet sticky w harness directly plugged to PCIII black box. Just pulled black box and it's definitely labeled USB w lot # and serial # (w with oem plug like harness to shifter sensor (even I'm not that galactically stupid even though i can impress the most delusional :roll: ). When talking to Dynojet helpline, they kept asking if serial blackbox, but I insisted speedshift was fully integrated, and they agreed to be USB. It said USB on blackbox after I pulled from tail section after talking to 'em, so feel quite so stupid. Anyway, el presidente is packaging and will wrap it/ship it out to Vegas NV for diagnois tomorrow. Which leaves me to believe on previous post this thread that they seemed aware of XX problem w serial blackbox, but acted somewhat surprised that USB box was acting up too in similar fashion. Gremlins? So far great support from DynoJet (albiet a bit slow, but definitely acceptable, B+) and not questioning my problem and seem truly concerned about stalling problem for obvious safety concerns (for a f...king Honda it picked the worst place possible to stall last time, another long story). I double-checked fuel tank venting and PCIII wiring when pulling blackbox/harness for RMA and everything looked very solid/clean, definitely no corrosion/crimped wiring. Will keep ya posted, in DynoJets hands now! When da bird shuts down trolling at 90 in 5th gear in left lane on 35W South in construction zone w cement barriers just off left knee in traffic, a naueous sinking feeling and time to suck it up big time :banghead: ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northman Posted October 20, 2004 Share Posted October 20, 2004 Yep, tube-like sensor attached to directly to foot shifter bolted to main frame w bright Dynojet sticky w harness directly plugged to PCIII black box. Just pulled black box and it's definitely labeled USB w lot # and serial # (w with oem plug like harness to shifter sensor (even I'm not that galactically stupid even though i can impress the most delusional :roll: ). Got any pics of that? Is it an electric shifter controlled by the PC? Never heard of it before, but interested..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhanxx Posted October 20, 2004 Author Share Posted October 20, 2004 http://www.powercommander.com/quickshift.shtml Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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