FDchief

I liked the idea from the UK XX site where you can just reverse the stock bars (left to right / right to left). Looks like this might be a viable alternative. My question is; will the stock wiring, cables and hoses reach the new position of the reversed bars or with the VFR bars?

I recently changed out my coolant with distilled water and coolant in a 50/50 mixture. Included Water Wetter and have noticed about a 10º F drop in temp Yes I am happy. I used the turbo flush method where you use a rubber hose and blow out the residual fluid in the system. Worked great. My Stealership couldn't find the drain sealing washers in the cylinder head (damn squids at the parts counter), so I just got a second 6.5mm crush washer like the one that goes in the water pump. Worked great, same washer. The hardest part of the whole job was the plastic R&R. But glad I did it.

BMWs are notorious for this. Haven't heard of Honda inline fours doing it on a regular basis. A good practice is to leave it on the center stand when at all possible.

Bubba, from what I am getting from the group is that all is well. I use to have a Corvette that did the same thing. They say fuel efficiency and reliability is best when running warm then cold. Of course as others say on this forum; "Big HP makes big heat". I believe that too. Anyway, as long as we all have the same temps, and she still runs like a striped ape, I will ignore my temp gage.

Thanks all for the reply. Couldn't find the normal operating range anywhere. I feel better about the temps. Steve, keep in touch and we can meet for a brewski during the air races. Reno also works. let me know. Greg

Still getting use to the digital temp gage. I liked the analog when I didn't know how hot things were getting. My question to all is; how hot does your bird run on a 90º day? At highway speeds mine is around 180-195ºF. Below 50 mph can be around 210º. Sitting at stop lights, up to 235º! All seems fine though. Have done all of the usual, check coolant level, cleaned fins, syn oils. Fan comes on just fine. Bike has 11,500 miles. Also get a blast furnace effect on my legs. Just wanted to see what every one else is seeing on their temp gages.

Anyone using speed bleeders on brakes or clutch on their Bird? Had em on my old CBR900 and they worked really slick. Cable clutch though, shouldn't be any big difference on the hyrdraulic side.

Looks great, watch out for those water spots :grin: BTW, I like your tank bra, what make is it?

Phalanx7.62, thanks, I too love the pipes on the bike, looks like they were made for each other. Did I mention they sound very good too, throaty, and just the right amount of snarl :twisted:

Northman, my exhaust also looks a little black, am sure the PC would fix this. I wonder if there is any possibility of fouling plugs running this mixture? When you got your PC did you just install it as stock, or did you download another map? Where did you mount yours? Thanks for the help.

I purchased my 2001 with a set of Micron slip ons. No PCII yet, wondering if I really need it. A slight bit of a worble when the throttle is chopped, but no back firing. Pulls hard all through the Rs, what do you guys think?

Are we talking about the D208, or something else?

OK, with all of that said, what viscosity are you using?

This should start a lively discussion. I have used Mobil 1 for many years in my cars, but have been warned not to use it on my bikes due to terminal clutch slipping. What is the thoughts of this group? If possible, I would like to use it, but don't want premature clutch problems.

I know many have stated that they use Mobil 1 in their birds. I have always stayed away from Mobil 1 in my bike because they say it is not good on the clutch, and will ultimately cause slipping. Any thoughts from the group? Is the hydraulic clutch different than my CBR900RR cable one?

I have always used a high flashpoint solvent, my preference is kerosene. You know kerosene is just a refined diesel, and a great parts cleaner that will not harm your chains o-rings. I wipe off the chain with the kerosene and a rag, then dry with another rag. Ride for 10 miles or so at highway speed, then lube it with chain wax (parafin based), which is recommended for o and x-ring chains. Let it dry. No splash, no mess. I used it strictly on my 900RR race bike, and in 5 seasons never replaced the chain. You decide. :wink: