Kupa

Black XX. 5 stops, 4 tickets, won the trial by mail for the last citation just this week. Red Porsche Turbo. 0 tickets. Go figure...

Plastic welding with heat is a reliable method for fixng cracks in a number of different kinds of plastic. I can't speak first hand to either having done it or having needed it on my XX, knock on wood, but I know a little about the process. Hot gas technique - you have an electric heated gun with hot compressed air and the correct filler rod, laying the filler rod in place and moving the hot air stream and tip to melt the filler. The joint to be welded needs beveling before hand. Results improve with practice. The material welded needs to securely clamped. The kit you're looking at is what you would need to do the job, as long as you have the right filler and prep the material. Practice before doing it on your finished piece. The more you practice, the better ytour bead will be.

They're also damn ugly. Boring mono-tone paint jobs. No ostentatious graphic treatments. What the HELL was Honda thinking?

Kevin- great links. I think I may just go and buy one of the Tesseract v1. units. It's far better than I'm capable of building, and looks like it addresses all the needs I have for mixing audio on the bike. Price seemed reasonable as well. The headphone amp pages are fantastic. It's great to see the humorous combinations of housing and circuitry. Thanks for your input as well. The website I found the schematic on mentioned attenuation being an issue with additional inputs. I wish I understood all this better. Maybe a new research project for me is on the horizon...

I agree it will be awesome once I get back into the box and re-solder the resistors in the right locations. I found that schematic above online, and indeed got all my components at RadioShack. Next one I build needs to have the 1/8" inputs spaced evenly, so it looks a little less ghetto. I'll post an update once I get the rewiring complete. This should work great as long as your audio cables are short from the headphone out of the devices and short going into the helmet headphones. Check out the swank coiled headphone cable I made that's plugged into the MP3/CD player, that's actually my headphone cable for the chatterbox. Beefy so it gets whipped around less at 135. RmeUp2-125... Make these? as in for sale? don't the folks at autocom need to put bread on the table? what am I? a robber baron? :treadmill: have any interesting stuff to trade? :cycle: Cheers, Cooper

I had used a boostaroo. It helped, but still wasn't loud enough. I think the real problem is- it took posting the schematic to a whole forum before I realized that I fucked up in the circuit building. I soldered the resistors in the + Right and Left channels, rather than wiring it into the ground channel. DOH! :twak: I like meesing up in front of a crowd. Hell of a lot more entertainment value then. :oops: Cheers, Cooper

I couldn't find a simple audio level/line mixer for sale anywhere that was small enough to carry on the bike. I guess autocom solves this problem, but the price tag is hefty. My set-up needs? I have 3 audio devices I wanted to listen to in stereo, simultaneously through my Chatterbox GRMS x1. I wanted to have a volume control for the final mixed audio line- each device has it's own volume control, so I didn't need to build in additional line-in volume controls. Cash is tight, so I built one. Devices: - 1. MP3/CD player - 2. Valentine 1 warning audio - 3. Police scanner to keep tabs on the CHP aircraft channels Components needed: 6 10k 1/4 watt resistors 4 1/8 stereo audio jacks in housings 1 miniature audio Potentiometer, dual gang 1/2 watt 1 knob for Pot 1 small project box 1"x2"x3" 22 gauge wire Solder Shrinkwrap The mixer works well, but has one small problem. Would really appreciate any advice on how I can get more volume out of the unit. It's about a third to a half as loud as any of the individual audio devices. I need a bit more volume to really make it work at speed. Should I have used lower wattage resistors? IE: 1/8 watt Would a 1/2 watt 200k Audio Potentiometer be limiting my overall volume? Here are some project images: The simple black box- easy to carry, with volume control out and three audio inputs to work with. The inside circuitry. Shrink wrapped/soldered. About 15 bucks worth of parts, and about two hours of time. Here's how it works. Only two inputs are shown in this image but there's room for a third, and the audio out actually goes into the headphones in my helmet. I run the Valentine 1 radar detector's audio out into the third input so I can ride fast, listen to ambient funk, hear the CHP aircraft channel chatter, and talk over the GMRS. If I could only get a cup of espresso with that.. :nerd Here's the simple schematic I found online. I added a third input jack and a stereo potentiometer to control the volume out. Cheers, Coop

Vista cruise. $25. Black where there is only supposed to be black ;-)

apolloxx and molson309, have you measured your system's voltage at full output to compare what the load difference was between your stock hi + low and the new HID lights?

Anyone ever put together a group buy on HID systems? xenondepot has a program on their website.

Just made a deal to buy a 900RR shock with a 16 kg spring, I think I'll need a 16.8. If this group buy comes together, I'm in for one.

Curious here as well... looking for good ideas on Valentine mounts.

This sounds like a good plan. I'm glad to hear that the mounting can be improvised, rather than needing some other bracket or hardware. Is it still avisable to run the 6mm frame spacing atop the CBR900 transplanted shock? I like that change BTW on my stock shock, kudos to this forum... - Are you happy with the change to 900RR shock over stock? - Are you using the 16.8 spring? - Do you think there will be any long term issues with over-springing a damper that was designed for a lighter bike than our XXs?

Looking at a 95 CBR900 Shock for my 97 XX. Only qustion is: How/where do you mount the remote reservoir?