Red J

Interested to see your results, Stan. With regard to your comments, and I respect your opinion: Racing engines and especially drag racing engines, are built with a very loose clearance, and as such, could stand to benefit from substantial crankcase vacuum. They are seeing more crankcase pressure than your average street engine due to the loose cylinder-to-piston clearances. I say the two are very different animals. If, as Tomek says, there is little oil blowby, it would stand to reason that the rings on many XXs are particularly efficient at their job. Being a Honda engine, which typically have high precision, I would believe this. If this is the case, the larger reason for running heavy crankcase vacuum to control heavy amounts of combustion gases in the crankcase due to loose clearances would not apply to the typical XX. I'm not saying that the benefit is not there, because I'm not. I'm saying it's a substantial effort for most users to implement and maintain (I suspect the reeds will become gummed up in short order)

It's low, because nothing is pulling the vapor out besides the engine, which is likely burning it during power stroke. If you start extracting oil from the crankcase without anything to light it off, there is going to be residue in the exhaust. There is oil vapor and condensate in the bottom end. It will come out if you increase the scavenging effect. Rotaries have a very high exhaust gas temperature. Modern catalyst equipped rotaries have oil metering pumps to reduce the amount of oil that makes it out of the engine. Not the same as a piston reciprocating engine with it's comparatively low exhaust gas temperature. So this is worse. You have liquid oil in the pipes. Mess. Two stroke oil burns off fairly well in exhaust chambers unless the mixture is too great. Modern two strokes have much less oil emissions, or rather, can have much less, depending on the oil mixture and engine use. --- IMO, if you want to use the exhaust reed valves for scavenging of the engine crankcase, buy a oil seperator ("catch can") and fit it. TSR used to build one which was designed specifically for the blackbird. Sat atop the transmission. In my opinion, there is minimal gain to be had here, for the effort and/or cost. Spend the time in the gym and lose seven pounds of mass. Or ride naked.

yep. verify the black wire in the not automatic. It may be +12vdc, or it may be ground. I believe the not automatic shows it in the diagram. Obviously verify RR function with a voltmeter, just in case.

Without rewiring, it will not work. It won't plug in, that's for sure. However, it would work if it's rewired. J. i did rewire it...stator worked fine and still does. The RR was a different story..it would not regulate..it put out a steady 18v...i posted about it having an extra black wire IIRC but no one really knew what it was for...ultimately I just went back to a yammie RR black wire is voltage sense circuit. sink to (iirc) ground. or +12vdc. Can't remember, don't have harness diagram here. LOL. Cheers, J.

Without rewiring, it will not work. It won't plug in, that's for sure. However, it would work if it's rewired. J.

I put an 03 RR on my 97. Hardwired it and mounted it in the same location as original (had Ohlins on bike, reservoir was already on the right). I had to take a sander to the fins to get it to clear the bodywork, but other than that, fit fine. Worked great, too. Had voltmeter, power was much more stable with the new vs. the old, but the old one was done.

I have no affiliation with Lorac, they're just who did my swingarm. The swingarm takes a few minutes to remove once you have the shock out and the wheel off. My bike was pretty well disassembled when I finally took the arm off, so I don't recall how long it took me. Rider and pillion pegs were polished, and it did contrast well, but the heel guards on the rider pegs were always, always scuffed from the boots. If I had it to do over again, I'd just get the pegs powdercoated black. The bar ends were being swapped out for throttlemeisters in that pic, and I hadn't put the TMs on yet. J.

Jeff, I went with the black texture, and the color matched the frame very well in most all light. True, the arm was textured and the frame was not, but in photos and real life, it worked very well fuckyouverymuch. sokanxx, If you have not yet done it, send your swingarm to lorac in Wichita and specify black texture if you like the way mine looks. They also will provide a plate which has been coated so that you can take it home and see for yourself the comparison against the frame.

IMO, engineoscopies are cake on the XX.

IMO, the drop the engine method is the easiest to do. James, I'll drop my service tool in the box with the head. This is the socket for the locknuts which hold the rear engine mount bolts. J.

I replaced mine (1997 XX) at ~40k with a 2003 XX regulator.

James, I have a spare cylinder head. It's off a 97. LMK if you decide to go that route. J.

wet kit.

Turbo.

97-? has no harness, just a plug on the unit itself. There is a redesigned 97-? with a heatsinked case, which I understand, solves the problem. A replacement pigtail with 6-12" worth of wire is available from Honda to repair a bike whose connector has failed (mine did) Just some more info for the files.

I wired the later (03?) rectifier into my 97. Removed the plug, since it was toast. The plugs will not plug into each other. I left myself a bit of loom as a spare in case I needed to remove it for any reason. The 03 loom had plenty of length.

That ain't a naked bird... Looks like you got there, Josh. J.

Tape them to the nozzle.

Sorry, homie. Just now seeing this. I got a jet kit I can send ya...

Steve, Mine was putting out the correct voltage, but would die after a few short trips. Bring it back home, charge it, diagnose again, voltages were fine. This happened a few times before I got tired of it and dragged out the wrenches. I ended up with a fried connector on my rectifier and some burned insulation on my stator. Roughly 38k on a 97 (early bikes are the weakest XXs with regards to electrical, I understand). New stator and a upgraded (wired in an 02) rectifier, no more problems. Later rectifiers have bigger heatsinks and better regulation circuitry. Unfortunately, one chink in the armor of the XX. Good thing is, it's an easy fix, and not that expensive.

Hondabond is recommended in that location, as specified in the FSM.

If some of you fuckers want to read a little about going fast and the HP that's required, here is a nice li'l story: http://www.bobnorwood.com/The%20Fastest%20...20in%20Utah.htm

How many teef in the front? :icon_shifty: :icon_shhh:

Indeed, a great joke: "Frank was excited about his new rifle. So, he went bear hunting. He spotted a small brown bear and shot it. There was then a tap on his shoulder, and he turned round to see a big black bear. The black bear said "You've got two choices. I either maul you to death or we have sex." Frank decided to bend over. Even though he felt sore for two weeks, Frank soon recovered and vowed revenge. He headed out on another trip where he found the black bear and shot it. There was another tap on his shoulder. This time a huge grizzly bear stood right next to him. The grizzly said "That was a huge mistake, Frank. You've got two choices. Either I maul you to death or we'll have rough sex." Again, Frank thought it was better to comply. Although he survived, it would take several months before Frank finally recovered. Outraged he headed back to the woods, managed to track down the grizzly and shot it. He felt sweet revenge, but then there was a tap on his shoulder. He turned round to find a giant polar bear standing there. The polar bear said "Admit it, Frank, you don't come here for the hunting, do you?"

This thread makes my head hurt. I got a hundred on Northman. Any takers?