SBBXX

Hey Pat I've got PRs on the front and back and I really like them. Some have tried a power/road combo and have had nothing but good things to say. I may try it when the front is due. marty

perfect. They even have a Cdn distributer. Thank you edit: $37.48 cdn for a touch-up pen plus a clear pen.

Is this just a problem up here? If so, what does everybody use?

Andy (For the life of me I can't remember his login name) had to replace a shitload of stuff by the time he was done last year. He replaced both the stator and regulator and it even burned out his light switch. good luck What he said. :icon_imwifstupid: marty

Really? you gave no indication there was anything remotely wrong with your clutch. I was worried mine was going a couple of years ago, but I changed the oil I was using (Mobil 1 red cap) and that fixed it right up. Let me know when you're ready to do the pool. Corynne and I will gladly shoot down there and give you a hand. marty

+ 1 Try this before you start pulling plugs. Even before you lift the tank: WOT and crank. good luck When it's hot I use very little choke. Basically fast idle only until it smooths out, and that's it. marty

It probably takes longer to grind the washers than to drop the shock and slip them over the top. My first attempt was with notched washers, which is why it was a first attempt. marty

Waiting for you to fess up. :icon_doh: It was the kill switch wasn't it?`

Hi Mike Welcome back. How was the trip? I used an old dust boot that was laying around the garage. Some are doing the same with old spark-plug caps, just triming them down. I don't see why the hose washer wouldn't work just fine. I'm sure I saw pics somewhere. marty

Everything you need is right here. Welcome to the board. marty

I don't think so. This does not sound like Johnny Monsoon.

I'm positive I read somewhere that it does, if not this thread, then another. It was one of the advantages of going one up on the front vice down on the back. marty

perfect. hmmm, Analog Instrument panel and fuel injection. :icon_think: 99 or 00.

HID would explain the flickering then. There just wasn't enough juice to fully charge the ballast. It would charge as much as it could, then discharge a voltage too low to fire the light, then repeat. I'm pretty sure both bulbs are lit on high beam, correct me if I'm wrong. You have me thinking about a switch now. On the other hand I would think it would be too simple to wire a LED to show when the system is in discharge. This would at least prompt you to raise the RPM if you're idling for a long time or disable the lights if you have the switch. marty

I use regular in my 97 with no problem. You need to run the higher octane only if you have problems with pre-ignition. You're right. The FI models have an anti-knock program built in, so octane should never be an issue with them. marty

Two points If your Stator was going to blow, that would have been the time. A totally dead battery is one hell of a stress on the system. The older and more deteriorated its condition, the more it looks like a short. (more current draw) So everyone is right here. if it's more than a couple of years old, invest in another. L/A batteries never recover fully once they have been totally drained BTW, although that doesn't necessarily mean it's NFG. A higher capacity O/P most likely would not have changed your outcome if the RPM was not high enough to begin with.

Just ordered 3 sets from Here. $22.36/ set. I think that's pretty good from what I've seen so far. If anyone can get them cheaper, do me a favour and don't tell me. marty

Anyone have reccomendations on the best place to order the EBC pads? Someplace that will ship up here for a reasonable price would be nice. I would use the same source as last year as they were awesome, but for the life of me I can't remember who they were. thanks marty

Just read through that thread. :icon_think:

Check the tire pressure first.

Not another yellow bird? That makes three. Not a good colour if you're planning on running from the cops, right louis? Can't wait for the pics. marty

Oh almost forgot. The rubber strap that holds the tool kit in place.

If neither the front nor the back activates the light, chances are it's not a switch. A small investment in a DVM, which you can always use BTW, and with the help of the wiring diagram, you should be able to track it down. marty

Solved mine. The sidestand was down.

Yup. You need to use the front and take some weight off the rear. Have never been able to lock it by just stomping on the pedal. marty