Keith

I don't have longevity numbers yet, as I've only put about 500 miles on them, but I'm very pleased with the Dunlop RoadSmarts I just put on. Really good grip in the twisties. It will be interesting to see how well the dual compound does at long wear in the middle.

Or, one could try to contact N1k for some first hand advice.

Are you going to share that info? :icon_think:

I don't think that's too short a life for a bulb on a bike. With the vibration, it's a hard life for a headlight bulb on a motorcycle. I usually get 18 months to two years out of a set of SilverStars.

The EFI controller of your 2000 may not work correctly with the later engine. Can you get the engine control computer along with the motor? I think you'd have less headaches that way.

I might have one laying around. I broke the one off on the left side of my '03 in a tip over and decided to remove the one on the right, since I was dragging them all the time anyway. If I can locate it, it's yours. It's a one piece unit, not the two piece shown in the parts manual.

Those wheels are sweet!

Do they come in sizes that fit the XX????

How far between the 'bird and the desktop? Long serial cable? Easy to come by.

Is that at fast idle, i.e. idle when the engine is cold? It could be OK, although I've never seen mine that high at fast idle, only when running above 3000 RPM. At normal idle, mine is around 12.5V - 12.8V; at fast idle, maybe 13.5V.

No, they don't.

I don't know about the four finger thing; I find two fingers to be the optimum for steady, controlled braking. Even under hard braking (which I do practice), two fingers seems to be the best (for me) control; four fingers is too much, one finger is a bit light. YMMV, of course. And, I do have EBC pads; they are excellent, IMO.

Did you check the Power Commander web site? There are lots of maps available there, many for full systems; might be one you can use with the full Yoshi system.

I don't know if anyone in the US has them anymore, maybe ping John01XX. Jaws, in the UK has them: Clilcky

Based on the comments on this board, yes.

I sure like my 18T. I don't do any freeway commuting up here in the Sierra, but for me, the 18T is a much better gear for mountain riding than the 17T. As long as you are changing the chain anyway, now is a good time to swap out sprockets.

+1. It may only have 950 miles on the odo, but it has six+ years of depreciation on it. No way I'd shell out $9500 (near list price...) for a six year old bike. As soon as you transfer ownership, that thing will drop $3-$4k.

I used two hose clamps and clamped it on the outside of the sub-frame under the rear body cowl. Worked like a champ and holds it securely. Plus, I have no trouble reaching the compression damping adjuster knob.

Punisher????

My wife and I have a Scala Rider Team set - Bluetooth rider to passenger intercom. For the most part, we're pretty happy with them. For such small units, they have really good talk and stand by time, plenty of juice to last a day of riding; a quick charge overnight and they are ready to go again. I'm not 100% happy with them, though, as there's quite a bit of background noise, which surprised me, given the transmission is only 18" and is digital. But, like I said, they are pretty good. FWI and YMMV, of course.

That's a sweet deal. If you were closer, I might be very tempted. Good luck with the sale.

+1!

It's a heck of a lot easier to put the Pyramid on with the wheel off, but I'm pretty sure I was able to do it with the wheel on, by rotating it in from the rear; just be very careful you don't scratch the hugger on the undertail, unless you don't care about scratches. I had to remove it when I put Diablos on the bike, as they rubbed the hugger (Diablos must be larger in diameter than any other tire). At that time, I did it without the wheel and it was much easier, of course.

Another +1 for the 8983. I put one on a year ago and at the same time had GP Suspension in Oregon do a fork rebuild/upgrade. What a difference the two made! Handles like a different (better) bike entirely.

I didn't need to reactivate, just had to re-log in, then was good to go.