sk6f3

Rev, 250 mounted and balanced from a local, I took him the wheels. I knew they had to be good because Hobicus likes his!

49F/46R. 70 miles on a cool day. 38psiF/40psiR. Scrubbed the rear nearly to the edge. These tires inspire confidence! More stick than my previous Pilot Roads. Very smooth. Hope they last a long time. I got 4300 out of my PR rear. Not bad. I thought it was done at 3300, but it hung in there for another K before I hit the cords.

I will need a new chain and sprockets soon. Has anyone ordered and installed a dampened 16t front from another model? An install and ride report would be welcomed information. TIA

I did retain the stock washer on the needle. Rode the bike all last season with three total washers. I had no flat spots but I think it was too rich. Plugs with 8K were not light brown, more of a dark and damp look. I have the stock header with Staintunes and the outlet baffle installed (too loud for me without it). I have a 17t front and 47 tooth rear. Best milage I could get riding easy and near the speed limit was ~34, and only 30 or less, if riding agressively. For seat of the pants power comparisons, I've been out several times this winter. Clear, dry and 10 was the coldest day. I could feel the extra punch from the low temp, but the increased power with the jetting changes is much greater. I wonder which change is having the greatest effect, increasing the slide hole, or leaning the needle? I have to order new tires. I ended up liking the performance of my pilot roads, but I have a little less than 3K and the rear is almost done with the front not far behind. I always ran between a range of 39-42 in both the front and rear. Two sets of Diablos before these were even worse. I plan on trying Avons this time. It will be a while before I can report back on milage, everything is white again, we are looking at 3-6 inches of snow today.

I pulled out the two washers I had added to each stock needle. Opened my slide hole from 7/64 to 1/8. I left my idle jet at one over over stock at 45. New plugs, new oil and clean K&N filter. What a difference! It was about 34 this afternoon for my test ride. As I rode easy initially, I noticed the temp guage was riding a little higher, was I so rich last year that the extra fuel was keeping the heads cool? As I opened the throttle in first from low RPM, no flat spots, and I got the usual power wheelie at 7K, but as I kept it pinned the front was rising way faster than before the rejet. I dropped front tire back to earth, hit second and nailed it again. I am forward, with no clutch and the front is lifting again! My bike did not power wheelie in second so easily before. Of course I had to test this again and again. No doubt, the bike is pulling harder everywhere. Fun afternoon, great to make a change and have it work well. Thanks for the ideas.

Why does this work? I am at 7/64 currently.

Thanks Bruce! I ran a ground directly to my battery this morning and now they work as advertised. I took your advice about wraping the clutch side clip-on with electrical tape. Seems all is well now. I look forward to riding this afternoon as we are forcasted to hit 40 today! Bad for sleds but good for the XX. Steve

I just installed under-grip heating elements. They have a three position switch, HIGH Off and LO. I am only getting a slight amount of heat. I have power. When I select the HIGH position, power is also present of the LO side of the switch, and on the HIGH side when I select LO. Is this correct? Is the switch bad? If this is correct, the only other thing I can think of is a ground problem, both grounds are tied together under the brake lever nut. I have double checked the schematic and think is wired correctly. I have not yet installed the new grips. Any ideas?

Stock header, Staintune slip-ons with potatos in the endpipe to keep them quiet. I dented one header pipe on a rock and might just repair, not replace. I have not heard the Micron, but have heard a Yoshi with RS3 end. The Yosh was louder than my Staintunes but not too loud for me. I would rather have quiet than loud. A power boost would be nice. I have a K&N, and jets, might be a little rich.

I am considering the full Micron system currently listed on ebay for my 97XX. Does anyone have this system with the AL can? How loud is it, quality, performance? Thanks, Steve

Today I put 200 miles on my new pilots roads. They feel very solid to me. I just came off of Diablos, two rears and one front in 5200 miles. No cupping, very good stick. Before those, 3000 miles on what was left of the B 020s when I purchased the bike. The 020 front cupped badly, and I was happy to get rid of them. My first impression of the roads stayed with me all day, they take considerably more muscle to initiate a turn, but once established they are very neutral. With the Diablos, the XX rolled into the turn quicker with the same input, but then I had to counter steer during the turn, as they wanted to keep falling deeper in to the turn. In between curves and when no opposite direction cars are near, I often do the weave. I could flick the XX easier side to side with the Diablos, they had a more triangular cross section. The pilot roads are very round. The bike feels more stable with the roads, actually, a little less sporty. I usually ran 36 front and 38 rear with the Diablos. Today I ran 39 front and 41 rear in the pilot roads. I am hoping for much longer tire life with the roads. I like them so far. I am amazed at how much a different style tire affects the handling characteristics of the bike. For those guys with pilot roads and lots of miles, what pressures are you running?

My fuel leak is resolved. I finally pulled the seat, lifted the tank and realized the fuel was seeping from somewhere around the the fuel valve. The carbs and overflow tubes were dry. I removed the tank and figured the most likely culprit was the o-ring between the fuel valve and the tank. I removed the valve, replaced the o-ring, and everything is now right with the world.

This morning I had a puddle of fuel under my 97 XX. I had left the bike on the side stand overnight. I usually leave it on the center stand. I took it outside, put it on the center stand and the bike started and ran well. After letting all the residual fuel drain out of the lower fairing, I rolled it back into the garage and left it on the center stand. It does not seem to be leaking anymore. Did I have a stuck float? Is it possible for this problem to clear itself, or shoud I plan to go into the carbs to clean/adjust? Steve

I am looking at the er-6 formed ear plugs and maybe xm like Rich, but I also want to have intercom piped in to the er-6's so I can talk with my girl on the back. I tried a chatterbox with speakers in the helmet but found it totally inadequate above 30 mph. Is my hoped for set up possible? Steve

blkbrdrydr, why are you happier with your 5 wt oil vs. your previous 2.5 wt and progressive fork springs. I just got my springs (hyperpro), had to additionally order the 2.5 wt, but after reading you post, I am considering 5 wt instead. Thanks Steve

I rolled my 97XX out of the basement into the 10 degree air and light snow this morning. This was my first attempt at start since my first round of mods and maitenance. Pulled the carbs, 45 pilots, raised the stock needles 1mm, enlarged the vacume hole to 7/64s, set the pilot screws to 2.5 turns out. Changed the plugs, installed a K&N filter and change the oil. I hit the starter with no choke, 1 2 3 seconds, nothing. Full choke, 1 2 3....Fire! Runs well but starts to cough, so I backed off on the choke and it smooths right out. I start to blip the gas after it warms up for a while and it seems to respond very well. As the temp gauge rises, I start to wack it open and closed as fast as I can. The RPM jumps to 7K and back to idle with just the slightest stumble on the way up. The trottle response seems a little crisper than before. I know I must ride it to really tell if things are improved, but can you tell anything by nailing the throttle in the center stand? The roads are a mess. It may be a while before I can road test. I also added 6mm to my rear shock mount. I pulled the rear shock to increase the preload to the max. I am going to order the HyperPro front fork spring kit. I received my new rear Diablo and will send in for the free front. So far so good. I like working on the bike, hope it works even better on the street this spring, thanks to many here for the help, Steve

Thanks, I went with 2.5 turns out. Each of the pilot screws was set at 2.5 when I checked the previous setting. This was the only change I found from stock. The previous idle was just fine. I have reassembled up to the air filter, I am waiting for the K&N in the mail. If it does not come tommorrow, I may put the old dirty one in just to see how it runs. How much of a difference will the filter make? Have you run with out lower and center fairing panels, just for short test rides? I also installed a NEP throttle lock and it seems to work beautifuly, Steve

I went from 42.5 pilots to 45, raised the stock needle 1mm, opened the slide hole (insert joke, no pun intended) 7/64, and borrowed a pilot screw adjustment tool. I have stock US mains for now. MAXX after you increased your pilot size, do you remember how many turns open you set you pilot screw? I am concerned that with 45s, 2.5 turns out may be too much. Thanks Steve

I went from 42.5 pilots to 45, raised the stock needle 1mm, opened the slide hole (insert joke, no pun intended) 7/64, and borrowed a pilot screw adjustment tool. I have stock US mains for now. MAXX after you increased your pilot size, do you remember how many turns open you set you pilot screw? I am concerned that with 45s, 2.5 turns out may be too much. Thanks Steve

The kitchen counter thing did not last long, I was then directed back downstairs to the ping-pong table doubling as a work bench. My family's question; Will you be able to put all that stuff back together? So far on carb #1, I drilled the hole in the slide out to 7/64ths, increased the pilot to a 45, and lifted the stock needle 1mm with two #4 brass washers. I am attempting to adjust the pilot screw two turns out from bottom, but I do not have the proper tool and stopped for this evening in frustration. I will leave the stock mains. I am waiting for delivery a tool kit (need the spark plug socket), and a honda service manual purchased on ebay. I have yet to order a new oil filter, and a K&N air filter from ronayers. A friend may help to check the valves before it goes back together. Do they need attention at 13K? I hope I am happy with the changes, It might be awhile before I will know for sure, as it is heading below zero again tonight. Thanks for the help as I struggled with the needle assemby, I was not sure how it came apart and did not want to make a mistake, now all is well. Steve

Thanks, I thinks that covers it. I will search first next time. I am sure I spent too much at the dealer for mine. I am still trying to decide between buying a jet kit primarily for the needles, or just shimming the stock needles up. I have a 97XX. Alanb has helped, any other advisors?

What is the the difference? Do I need to return the IX-9 plugs for the VX-9 ?

Thanks Colin. What is the technique for pulling the needle assembly from the slide? How hard should I pull on the screw threaded into the top of the needle assembly? I have not done this before and am afraid of damaging something.

Thanks Colin. What is the technique for pulling the needle assembly from the slide? How hard should I pull on the screw threaded into the top of the needle assembly? I have not done this before and am afraid of damaging something.

I've read on this forum about shimming the stock needles. I assume the needle has to come free from the slide in order to shim them, or to check to see if they are adjustable (modified) from stock. The main jets and the pilots are the stock sizes based on info from MaXX in a previous post. Can anyone confirm that the pilots screws are not covered on this model in stock trim? I see some colored marks on the bottom of the carbs. Each of the float bowls has a green dot. Two of the carbs bodies have a black mark, and two have a pink mark. There is also a blue mark on the center of the throttle linkage.