Suf Daddy

I'd replace the thermo, cap and try again. Speedy geezeer may have the hairline crack in the headgasket as a cause too. The circulation you see may be PERKulation from the headgasket being cracked. My old car did it. Run no traffic, no problem. temps over 85....no go: boil over. I can swing my Bird by, after I finish with the sprockets. -Suf Daddy

Nothing like my fluid eh? GEL. http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9950

Could the PO put automatic transmission fluid in the clutch? Would that explain the gel? The clutch (I thought) worked mint as do the brakes - realizing they are separate systems just sharing brake fluid as their hydraulics. I'll post photos soon. Thanks Northman and Pete: Ding, ding ding ding ding............. Both those replies narrow down the three remaining bolts around the slave. It makes sense that the perimeter bolts (when looking at the whole sprocket cover) would be more related to the sprocket cover than the centralized one immediately around the slave. Three immediately surround the slave, five total on the sprocket cover. -Suf Daddy

Follow the "where to change tire" thread on www.nestreetriders.com Jim works in his garage after hours and has a snap on balancer and tire changer set up for bikes. $15 each one if you bring it loose. $20 on the bike. Chain Masterlinks $5-15, I forget how much. ASE mechanic..Seems like an ACE. Literally one block East of Route 28 ( S. Willow ),Manch- Vega$ NH PM me for phone number........... -Suf Daddy

Just the INFO I'm looking for. Which one of the three bolts on the slave assembly do I leave in?....just to remove the front sprocket cover. I'm writing a web page about it. I'll post pictures soon. I have a brake bleeder for a car, we blew junk out with the brake cleaner CAN (it said safe...) and immediately flushed the system by gravity replenishing the reseviour with clean brake fluid 3 - 4 times. I know brake fluid's hydroscopic (absorbs moisture) that's why they say use a sealed can. Previously open one is fine for flushing................. All an open can would do is accelerate rust internally from the moisture and lower the boiling temperature of the fluid. :!: Thanks Gent(s): -Suf Daddy Northman said: You can remove the sprocket cover with the slave intact, and it won't push out on you, as long as you don't pull in the clutch lever. No bleeding is required to replace the sprocket, but you should change out your clutch fluid periodically (like when it changes color). AND

97 BlackBird. 29K, third owner. Nobody said changing the front sprocket involved the Clutch Slave cylinder. The service manual doesn't really dedicate a chapter to front sprocket either. So hunting around, and I found the proceedure to undo the rear wheel, chain and now the Slave cylinder to get AT the sprocket. This means draining the clutch fluid reseviour, so when I turn the slave bleeder screw JUNK (redish/brown) comes out. Oh ohh...... So I open (via windscreen removal) the "Dot 4" fluid reseviour and there is GEL like junk everywhere... I clean most of it out. Doctor precision like: try to keep it out of the cylinder piston hole in the bottom. Wipe, rinse with brake cleaner and brake fluid and wick (by three huge paper towels and Q-tips) most of the crud away and out. Then we fill the reseviour with brake fluid (older open can of CLEAR DOT 4) for a flush through the system, and out the slave bleeder. Three times, GENTLY, slowwwwwwwly pulling the clutch lever so the piston (hopefully) doesn't jam on junk and score. Now the reseviour is dry and ultra clean, we put some clean fluid back in the reseviour and put the top on to prevent moisture rust while I do stuff over the next few days............... Here's my Q's: 1. Do I need to replace the slave cylinder (undoing next) 2. Should I replace the clutch Master cylinder and piston assembly? 3. There is a little metal clip in the bottom of the reseviour, how is it oriented? 4. Will failure be obvious after I refill and bleed? 5. Should I bet this proceedure thwarted failure down the road? D: Hookers Plenty of Photos too......... -Suf Daddy

Both times you mention "Hot as Hell." Hot restarts (after fueling) are common for vapor lock. I like the vent tube suggestion too. 98 Octane? Are you sure? Super duper is 91/93. Races gas is 100/110. Any HIGH test fuel above 93 is harder to burn. Its less Volitile then 87 Octane. This means its harder to ignite at higher temps. That's why turbo guys go for high octane to have a more controlled burn of the fuel in the combustion chambers. Avoids knock and pinging (detonation) higher flash point I believe. (Time for a real expert to chime in here.) -Suf Daddy

.........Just leave a No tell Mo-tel and drop some quarters into the "magic fingers"? LOL - Suf Daddy :poke:

ME too, then I figured out how it was held together. Dirt bike upbringing I'll guess. :pointup:

You sure he's NOT talking about the front axle? I didn't see in the service manual where it needs replacement though. I did overtorque mine because the service manual list Newton Meters (~50-ish) FIRST..... :evil: I then backed it off and appropriately retorqued the front to 30 something. DO I HAVE ANY WORRIES? also I thought 50-ish seemed reasonable as the rears were 69 ft lbs........ -Suf Daddy

Northman, I guessed at the Torque from memory, it could be one of the 16 ft lbs ones...... Bike and manual is down the street in the "shop". -SUf Daddy

Oh man that's awesome. Good job, you'll make more I bet with a tweek here and a tweak there...................... Stop light here, pink slip there.................. Do you have some street numbers like 1/4 mile, trap speed and all the other things men quest for? -Suf Daddy

Rich: I just ordered some from the NH shop and they were close $ to Ron Ayers. Following this thread here: http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9621 I think there is a typo in that bolt length. If its the bottom of the caliper which holds the assembly & slave too, its measured out as 45mm BTDT. I got photos too. I don't know if 3mm is going to rub or have clearance issues, but the service manual calls it a pivot bolt, the fiche????????????? Who knows...... The torque value seems low too...........~23 ft lbs? -Suf Daddy

Just put a new tire on the 97 and the Service manual says to replace the left front pivot bolt for the caliper assembly and the two caliper to fork bolts. Reuse the axle pinch, axel and other bolts / fasteners........................ So I look on Ronayers.com and the Fiche I got a print out from. In the service manual 13 - 10 shows bolts which turn out to be 6mm hex heads that hold the reflector and secondary master cylinder on. (picture 2nd down from top) According to Ron Ayers.com and the fiche (Grid 1-E13) the pivot bolt is a Bolt socket flange 8 x 48(mm?) same for all years Qty: 1 Part # 90132 - mz2 - 000 H/C 4162390 Now the bolt looks like mine but mine measures 45mm from thread tip to flange. BELOW THIS they list #23 (bolt facing caliper itself) & covered by Ron Ayers.com logo, as Bolt socket flange 8 x 45(mm?) same for all years Qty: 3 Part # 90135 - maj - 641 H/C 41980744.......these seem to match the caliper body B on page 15-28 second photo down in the service manual. These look like piston caliper bolts, but the length looks right for my (pivot bolt) application as fiche specs........... IS this a typo on the bolt & its mm lenght? The price for the #21 caliper / reflector hex head bolts and the simialr size but allen socket head for the right caliper bracket to fork are the same price. Left is #21 Bolt socket flange 8 x 32(mm) same for all years Qty: 1 Part # 90107 - mt3 - 003 H/C 3487790. IS THE QUANTITY A TYPO TOO? there are 2 each side (left and right)identical to each other. All referred to in the service manual as "bolts" Left is round head w/ allen key/hex socket 6mm and right is 12mm heads in 6 point socket shape. Thanks for looking into this for me......... -Suf Daddy

and the air filter replacement.......... The site link has photos, but the key to the tank operation isn't clear to see from the photo unless you've removed the tank before, then its like wow easy. The rubber wheels slide down and straight backwards to get out of the notch (groove) so that you can tip the tank back on the seat area (you removed the seat first remember?) and access the filter, carbs and plugs. Or you can have a second set of hands hold the tank up and work underneath. PM me for the photos. -Suf Daddy

Pete: Where did you get your chain tool? I see so many that I don't know which to get or whether I need two or just one to break the chain then set the master link. BTW: My bird has 29K on it (third owner) and I doubt the chain has been changed. I'm FAR past the replace mark on the trailing arm. A definite kink / bind when I roll the bike in neutral in a certain spot. I believe this caused my surging on the highway above 50 MPH which also felt like a vibration that made the bike squirrely. NEver noticed it around the hood at 25 - 40 mph................ -Suf Daddy

I have a picture that does the reverse. 1997 Carb bird. Plug in bottom of Rect. Top row all yellow .....[ X X X ] .....[ X X X ] bottom row Red/w, open, Green -Suf Daddy This is looking up at the Rect from the ground like crouching down. -Suf Daddy

North: Oh yes, I looked in there. I actually found one in the mung on the floor under the bike. A new battery comes with two. My old battery had its last ride tonight. No Go. Speedo inop. Stalled out instead of idle at stop sign etc..... Push start UGH. -Suf Daddy

The leads look like red & white (+) for Battery Charging line as page 16-9 says in the '97 Service Manual. Groundline: "Green and ground" Looking at the left side of the bike (Clutch) Rectifier is under the plastic cowl just below the seat. I had to remove four allen bolts. 1. at the cowl front leading edge by gas tank 4mm? 2. 6mm? above foot peg 3. 6mm? LONGEST on the back grab bar 4. 4mm? under rubber plug next to #3 above. CAREFULLY Twist cowl up and out of way. Rectifier plug as looking straight UP at it. Yellow Yellow X X X X X X R/W -- Green A determined pro could get to it in 3 minutes. It took me ten and a few more undoing and redoing............. HINT: Use Hex wrench (ALLEN Key) with the long handle sticking out towards you. Otherwise you'll scratch the cowl with the end of the wrench/key. BTDT :evil: Oh yeah..I have photos too....................... -Suf Daddy

Got an E-mail addy? I'll go take a picture tomorrow. Just rode in on it tonight. -Suf Daddy

I musta lost the nuts when I moved the battery around. I don't remeber seeing them when I checked out the terminals.... Thanks for the info. I'll try that trick. -Suf Daddy

So I go for a ride. Take the trickle charged battery to the bike and reinstall it. Take the two screws and thread them into the battery top to cinch down the leads but they just spin and spin. So I look closer and I suspect the screws screw into something under the battery ternimal loop? I guess mine are gone. Maybe the PO lost them. This could explain my charging issue..........run down battery..... Lose leads too much resistance to recharge? I always jump started it since the second start a year ago. -Suf Daddy

Kneedraggers.com drop shipped me one this winter. Good price. $124 Kinda fast shipping. Lister recommendation. I'm happy. -Suf Daddy

I saw an auction for bent and welded rims last week. No thanks. I'm trying OrlandoRich's. I'd rather help out a lister. -Suf Daddy

Wow: I thought they'd screw me........but the front made it today. Now its time to mount and try them out............. It took a while Bought in Feb free arrived April 13th but $140 for two is okay by me............... FYI: If they screw you: These things were on BACKORDER. Lean on them about it. I sent my reply by return reciept with the 16 digit USPS tracking number. I always do and let them KNOW about it. I couldn't get a reciept (invoice) for the transaction until the tire was delivered. Since it was BACKORDERED, Pirelli caused the delay IMHO. PM for help if you need it. - Suf Daddy