Iceman_40

wow so bad ass on the net huh? im in phx too buddy let me know what you wanna do Wish I was in Phx, any excuse to go for a ride... Better be careful Kenny may call your mommy....

Don't bother arguing with the idiot. They just bring you down to there level and beat you with experience. He maybe great with bikes as I hear he has 12 of them, but it's not his fault he can't read.

http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/finger_tight Wiki claims 1.7 -2.3Nm That's only 1.25 - 1.7 lbf No way I'd leave the header bolts that loose.

Most likely the reason you can get them out is they have totally dried up. I'd say some astroglide, or spray silicon lube or oil to get some moisture back into them.

40 WT, Welcome to the forum glad to have you aboard. Your link for the buyers guide is broken(ie incorrect) Your link (http://www/1stradardetectors.com/buyers-guide) Should be http://www.1stradardetectors.com/buyers-guide

I thought you sold it already? Did the sale fall throw of did you repo it?

I can't imagine finger tight being right. I guess it depends on what you call finger tight. FSM only calls for 14lbs/f Page 2-24 if you have the manual.

Shifter is easy to adjust remove the bolt pull the shifter off and put it where you want it. Foot brake is adjustable as well if I remember right, I seem to remember someone pulling off the foot guard/peg to adjust the brake on the rear. I think they had to cut a bolt to shorten it enough after the buell pegs but I could be wrong

Do the lights and stuff still turn on when you turn on the key?

The make of wire isn't hugely important. Just use stranded copper wire as it is easier to work with. The biggest thing is the connectors, 90% of the time if you have a wiring issue it is the connector, or really close to it. Solider all the connections and make sure you use heat shrink, I like the type with glue inside. When it heat it up the shirk gets tight and the glue seals everything. A 12 Gauge wire is good for up to about 100W on 12V. Since the bird only has about 100-150W of extra power it should be fine to run most everything on 12Gauge wire. The main wire from battery to Aux fuse block you might want to use 8 or 10G if you have allot of electrical accessories. The following site lists rating for wire size. http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

I've got 18F and 45R and my speedo is bang on, but my odometer is 7% low now. I have a custom made map and can do about 180 Miles(corrected) if traveling 75-85MPH on the highway before the my gauge starts blinking(equiv of the low fuel light)

When the power goes out, and back on you get spikes/brown outs. These reek havoc on anything electrical. Your best bet is when the power goes out, turn off the main breaker in your house. Usually water heaters have more than one heating element, one maybe gone.

That makes sense. He pulled the lock out before installing it. Betcha. +1 It is the only way I can see the CCT putting enough pressure on the chain. Then again he could have pulled the plastic and did something unintentionally while it was off.

Looks good if we are doing a group buy I'm in.

I'm really interested but the website doesn't tell much about it. Any pictures of the actual product?

Mount a couple of sets of HID's on the Roof

I had to loosen all the bolts on the bottom of mine both times I swapped shocks. I expect that's your issue if you didn't try it.

Congrats. You probably doubled Dave's millage by now...

+1 Also the 5300k is probably the best temp range to get :icon_think: 4300K is the brightest

I put a new chain/sprocket set on last spring, I also put a pro oiler. After some minor tweaking of the settings I got it to where I wanted it and haven't looked back. 20,000Km and only adjusted the chain twice.

Does he have the map on the Power Commander or does he have it off it already?

Did you try lubing the CCT while you were at it? Ya I did try lubing it by my the screw moved freely without it.

+1 on Checking the hose clamps first ride this season I smelt coolant. Started looking around and the top hose on the rad was leaking a very small amount. As luck would have it I could tighten it throw the hole in the pannel so I didn't even have to take it off.

I've tried this while waiting for a CCT to come in. I've found if you wind it up with the screw inside and let it "snap" back out and the rattle would go away for a short time. It would come back again, but it seemed every time I did the fix it the rattle would come back quicker. You can make the CCT last longer but it still starts making noise after a while. It is a great short term fix or a way to "check" to see if the CCT is making the noise but I don't think you will fix the issue.

Good idea, and it looks pretty damn good too... :icon_pray: