Iceman_40

Never cut a windshield before but I have cut Plexiglas. Dremel with a cutting disk and lots of water to keep the windshield cool. If you jam it at all it will crack the windshield so go very slow and steady. Best method likely is to mark the line you want to cut. Make small cuts from the top down to the line ever inch or two. Then make the cut along the line, this way small pieces will come off and it is less likely to jam. Then you will have to do some sanding to make the edge good. I'd like just buy a smaller windshield as cutting it can be a pain.

Can't you just replace the liner with a size L?

So you know it can't have a Hemi if it is a 6 cyl. Hemi is a 5.7L V8 in these cars, I know the new hemi is the 6.1L V8 but think it only comes in SRT models.

As far as I know there is was no limiter put on any of the XX's. 190Km/h should be easy to get to in 3rd... I'd check the lines and plugs as others have stated.

I had the same thing with pipes and K&N until I had the PC3 tuned for the bike.

So how much for this Ignore? Does it work on anyone who is annoying me? If so any chance of getting 100 or so of them?

Stan is more than likely right. Battery should have a warranty with it, get it replaced.

Max Pressure is MAX... don't go above it. Maybe a 2-4psi increase if you are running below 40psi. Easy to check the two of you get on the bike lift you feet and have someone watch to see if they can see a difference.

Check your battery connections. Clean them and make sure they are good and tight. If you have another battery still charge it up and see what it does. New battery's can be bad.

If you only intend on using it for soldering wire and such get a good butane one. They heat up very fast and are cordless, not to mention high watts. If you want to work on circuit boards its not a good choice. I have 4 different irons 99% of the time if I'm working on the car/bike electrical I've got the butane one.

I had a few come with things I bough but I tossed them all in the tool box. I'll solder and heat shrink over using connectors any day. Most electrical failures I've seen are ether the connector or the wire rubbing throw the coating. I know the solder and heat shrink will last the connectors I wouldn't trust for the long term.

I don't know about the XX's shock. But I do know the shocks on my Jeep HAVE to be installed one way.

Is it gone or not working? I have never done it to the XX but on 3 other bikes I've taken the clutch switch apart and cleaned it to make it function right. Was quite easy on the other bikes so I assume the XX's would be the same.

That is the seat with the built in vibrator isn't it?

You will get a lot more interest if you list off the models of the hardware and supply pictures.

I got better millage, and quite a few others reported the same thing. Hardly noticeable while riding but does have slightly less get up and go. The bike should have come with a 18T on the front.

Tree faller wedges, they are plastic wedges that are used for assisting when cutting trees. Aircraft mechanics up here use them to break the beads on the rims. Put it between the tire and the rim and hammer away. Plastic is softer than Alum so it shouldn't hurt the rim. I've used it once on my rims but they need a paint job anyway so I wasn't concerned. Real cheep and real simple. http://www.beaverstateplastics.com/tree_faller_wedges.htm

Most likely you killed the battery from starting it and shutting it off. If you aren't driving far between starting it you keep taking power from the battery but never put enough back in to charge it back to where it was. If your fan is running and you are under 2000RPM the XX's fan and electronics are probably taking up almost all the RR's output and not charging the battery at all.

Does he have any more bikes? Sweet deal, you stole that one.

Nope, only good up to about 235 hp. One can use heavier springs made for the VTX. It's the same 6 spring clutch as the later year XX. I went with aftermarket VTX springs and used an earlier 5 spring XX clutch basket on my 2002. Thanks for the correction... so basically stock clutch should be fine until you boost the bike.

I totally understand if is close to time to replace something I always try and upgrade. Maybe someone who races will chime in and give some more info on the clutches they are using.

Other than a few guys who are drag racing I don't know of anyone bothering. The stock clutch is a damn good strong setup. I could be wrong on the numbers but I think a few of the drag racers claimed the stock one was good to about 350HP.

PM Sent

First I'm not a expert but from what my brother has explained to me wind has it's issues. My brother works for a power company and from what he says the windmills they have are only used 20-30% of the time to add power to the grid. They are ether spinning too fast or too slow the rest of the time. If they aren't spinning in the right range they need to spend a small fortune on equipment to change the freq of the power to the standard of 60Hz. I'm told the way around this for a house is to have a bank of battery's that are charged by the windmill. This way it charges the battery's and a big inverter then is used to power your house. Needless to say these big banks of battery's aren't cheap, and do need to be replaced every few years. I know lots of people that run generators and battery banks up here to do the same thing. My Ex's parents had enough battery's in the basement to run the basics for the house for 24hours. If they were using the dryer or something that needed quite a bit of power they fired up the generator.

+1 I only had 1 RK but I'll never buy another one. I don't think I got 10K out of it. I have a ZVM2 now and have about 20K on it, it still seems brand new. I'm sure some of it has to do with the pro oilier though as I put it on when I put the new chain on.