rhubarbray

Reality is over-rated. Enjoy your own view.

500w? Just read where the carb models have a 390w stator and the FI models have a 460w stator. Those are the only numbers I found online though, if someone can come up with others, feel free.

Is it me or does the tail section look tweaked to the left?!

12.1V after a couple of hours is way too low. That`s only about 35% charged, how old is the battery? It might not be holding a charge anymore. As an aside, I did not have any FI issues with my `00 when I decided to take a look at the harness test port. Corroded like you wouldn`t believe! Took a while to strip back to good wire to solder together. One caution: when you pull the test port plug off, not all wires are grounded together! They are grouped in sections, which will be indicated by the different sized strips in the plug housing. Not sure if it makes a difference but I grouped the wires together in the same way. I didn`t want any issues with wires getting grounds when they`re not supposed to.

Ahh, the sensor info I did not know. That`s why I asked. Thanks

Dynojet map M102-301 is set up for D&D slip ons and a stock or aftermarket air filter. Would that not be close enough? It`s available on the Dynojet website, Never mind. Just saw you had an `02, I probably have the same maps you do that go up to `01. Just wondering, would there be a problem using the map anyway? What would be the difference?

Just thinking out loud here. 6500-7000rpm. Where does the CV carb come off the needle and transition to the main only? I realize it`ll depend on throttle position as well but I don`t know if poida is doing his testing at 1/4, 1/2, or wfo throttle. You say you`ve cleaned the carbs but are you sure all the passages are clear? I had an FJ1200 that I had cleaned the carbs 4 times but it still wouldn`t pull the skin off an onion in 1st gear. Broke down, had them cleaned ultrasonically, brand new bike.

Did you find out anything?

You had the full service done so would it be possible to go back to the shop and ask the mechanic if they saw anything unusual in the oil? Maybe go for a short drive, thoroughly clean an oil change pan, and drain the oil looking for anything? If it was a small shop, they might still have your oil filter on top of the pile, cut it open and inspect? Just had a thought, would it be possible to drop the oil pan when you drop the oil? You could then check the inside of the pan for residue and also see if you can get any movement on the rod big ends. I`m not sure but you might be able to see the counterbalancer and see if there`s play in the gear teeth.

OEM stator here in paradise is around $240 and my '97 has had 2 so far. The charging system on my XX has been the only significant flaw on the bike (other than my occasional lapses of visible riding talent) but parts prices here are soooo high. Is it the regulator taking out the stator? Would it be possible to change the regulator to the new series style to lessen the load on the stator? Oh, now I`ve done it, I`ve started a regulator thread!

Counterbalancer needing adjustment?

I just looked up a Ricks` unit and it`s $140US. How much could it cost for someone to ship to him? And how much does Honda want for a new OEM? Clarification. How much does Honda in South Africa want for a stator?

Sure I can do that, when it`s back together. Unfortunately, when you get a free project bike you never know what you`re going to get into. I had the carbs ultrasonically cleaned, new carb rubbers, repainted the clutch side cover, and gave the whole bike a good going over. I knew the previous owner and while his kids were growing up he hadn`t ridden it for 10 years. I got it going last spring, and while it was warming up there was condensation coming out the pipes,......that didn`t go away. Ran it for a while and it started to get worse. Crap! head gasket. Couldn`t figure out which one so no problem, pull the heads. As for anyone who has worked on the V4 Hondas, there is NO room to remove the rear pipes so the engine had to come out! Pulled both heads and sure enough, rear head #3 cyl I could see white around the exhaust valve. When I cleaned the heads I realized what caused the leak. Corrosion. There was a couple of spots of corrosion on the aluminum heads that must have pushed againt the gasket. Ever see an old bridge that`s been riveted together? Corrosion can warp 1" steel no problem!

Yes, I realize it`s an old topic but it`s solved! A co-worker was very patient with me, took the switch housing, flasher, turn cancel unit, and made up a turn signal system on the bench. And it worked! Put everything back in the bike, no work. WTF??!! After more searching he eventually came over and told me how to hook up the wires in the flasher connector. But they didn`t match the OEM manual. First shot, they worked! The OEM manual was wrong. Go figure. I would have been a LONG time figuring that one out.

I've had the DDM low beam 55w kit in for about three years now, no problems. I opted for the 4500k kit and have no issues but I wonder what the 3000k bulb would look like? When I talked to DDM then they told me that when the bulbs get old they tend to fade to the higher end of the Kelvin scale so a 3000k natural light bulb would slowly fade toward a 4500k white light. I opted to go the heavy wiring/ relay install and have had no issues but whoever said " no problem- it' s a 30 minute install" is full of crap! Probably took in excess of three hours but that included the relay harness and securely mounting the ballasts with double sided tape and foam tape so they don't bounce around AND wiring in a separate bulb socket for the DDM kit so that if I'm on the road and a bulb fails I can use the original socket for a halogen bulb and keep going. I had the high beam as well as the low beam but ended up taking the high beam out. I found that when driving at night and I saw a car coming around the corner I'd switch to low beam and back to high beam when the car had passed. Problem was that the light takes several seconds to come on so the temporarily I had NO lights! A couple of interesting moments resulted in me switching back to a halogen high beam and having a spare 55w system downstairs. Ray

Strange, when I typed in 32005/26, I got quite a few hits, but for some strange reason, all the companies are either in the UK, NZ, or Australia??!! North America has the 32005 but not the 26mm version.

Not sure if the XX is a two pole or a four pole but you`ll need something like this. http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog/SMBK147.html Honda has them too, but it doesn`t appear to be a kit. You`ll have to buy individual parts. http://www.mrcycles.com/fiche_section_deta...amp;fveh=164533 Not expensive and not hard to do. If the commutator is grooved or burnt, take it to a friend/shop/someone and see if they can clean it up on a lathe. Do not remove too much or you may have to undercut the insulator segments again. Not difficult, just time consuming. Ray

yep. Clymer and an oem Honda manual. But I`m not changing where the wires are going to in the harness. I`m putting the wires back into the black connector. The connector can only go on one way and I`m just making sure if the wires were 1-2-3 originally, the I`m not accidentally putting them back 3-2-1. The bottom of the flasher has B L E cast into the housing and if someone could explain what that means that might help solve which wires go where.

I have a project `85 V65 Sabre I`ve just about got finished but can`t get the turn signals to work. The PO had taken the female blade connector out of the connector housing and tywrapped them to the aftermarket 2 prong flasher. Don`t ask!! I`m pretty sure I`ve got them back in the right location according to the manual but I want to be sure of the orientation of the wires. I got a used OEM flasher but I can`t get it to work. I want to make sure the wires are right before spending the money on a brand new one. thanks, Ray

Just thinking out loud here. And god knows I really don`t need another project, but does anyone know if the XX engine will fit into a CBR900/929 frame? I did some searching here but couldn`t find anything. And I`m not talking about cutting the headstock off and repostioning type of fit, more like bolt-in with perhaps new mount plates. Then maybe I can fit a big bore kit too. Ray

First off, not mine, don`t know if it`s a scam, don`t know the person, just saw the ad tonight. Figured if someone wanted/needed a second `bird,............well,,,, http://www.cycletrader.com/listing/1997-Ho...11xxw-107584195 Ray

Damn!! Should I? Umm,.. well Christmas is coming,.....and I WAS talking about doing the ZX front end mod, but we do have a trip to Mexico coming up. But it is a really good deal. But there`s the wedding to pay for,........ DAMN You Hank!! Ray

If you really need to get your hands out of the way, I think these have only been out for a few years. And the prices on the regular offsets seem pretty good too. http://www.tinnerstools.com/miupavsncut.html Ray

Just my opinion but I`d be replacing the spacer and bearings anyway. If you`ve torqued the nut enough to bottom out the threads on the axle and compress the spacer then the bearings will have had some serious side load on them. And now that you`re able to torque up the axle to the correct torque you`ve reintroduced the side load. Ray

Thanks for the writeup, a great help. Now if I can just separate the "want" mods from the "need" mods, I`ll be all set. That, and the money. Ray