Hobicus

I made a similar assumption when I first bled the linked brakes, and Tim (Redbird) set me straight on this one. Look at the left front brake caliper, and you'll see that it has a master cylinder attatched to it. The way the front brake activates the rear is when the front brakes grab, it causes the caliper to move UP, pushing on the master cylindar. In other words... just squeezing the lever doesn't make the rear wheel stop. Squeezing the lever and rotating the front tire does.

I switched to Mobile 1 synthetic 15w50 on the first oil change at 500 miles. 23k miles later, every 3k change, no problems.

That's actually next on my list, too. The manual bleed process for the clutch is easy. For the brakes.. it sucks.

Exactly what I do.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1 Just curious. Seem inexpensive, wondering what they sound like, how the fit and finish is.

Agreed. I'd ride on a plug until I could get to where I could get the tire off the bike and get a new one. I'd hate to have to worry about it for the next 4000 miles (at the rate I'm going, that's about a month). I prefer to keep the vendor's tires the same. Dunlops with Dunlops, Avons with Avons. Since the front is so new, buy a front/rear set of whatever they've got in stock that match, but keep the front. When the time comes that you need to replace the front, you'll already have one. Smart man buys the matching rear and keeps it around as a spare.

I swear, some times it's affected by solar flares. Today, mine started flashing, and I went 20 miles on it before stopping, and it would only take 5.1 gallons. Of course, I wasn't riding at too high a speed, as it was so heavly patrolled.

Tire pressure. Edited to add: Front pressure seems a bit low to me. I keep mine at 40, even in the twisties. I've seen the Avon's cup when running at 35. Adds a nasty shake in the coriners, ask Matt37 about it.

Nik: I've got filters and the wrench here. Head this way and we'll do it on Saturday. As for Oil, I use Mobile 1 15w50 Red cap.

It's the heat level for the pad, the HH ones last the longest.

Day before I left, the replacement brake bolt came in. I loctited it in place, and torqed it to spec. Of course, before leaving for MegaXX, I checked the brake pads, etc, and everything looked OK. The back pads were close, but not quite ready. When I replaced them last time, they were out of the HH pads for the rear, so I used a lower temp one. This time I've got the HH pads. So, after getting back from MegaXX, (1900 miles in 4 days, much of that time on 2 of those days in triple digits), I replace the rear pads (they were close, real close) and decide to go ahead and look a little closer at the front ones, especially where the damn brake bolt was lost, just to give it a once over, since I'm doing maintenance anyways. I go to pull the pin, and the pin is nearly wore through. :shock: :shock: :shock: Must've been rubbing on the rotor when the bolt was lost. I missed it when I did my brake inspection, because it really was hard to see until I started rotating the pin with the alan wrench. The pin broke removing it. Here's a pic: Amazing it held together considering the amount, and kind, of riding we were doing. New one on order. No one has one locally. Bird's probably parked until Thursday.

I had a similar problem happen to me, and I had the bike stuck at a gas station. Fortunately, I had the extended warranty, and Honda paid for the entire lockset replacement. However... there's some good information here: http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9814 and http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8198 The last one shows how to take the whole thing apart, and what was done to fix the problem.

D) Hookers Actually, under ours we put some nice globe bushes, they look OK, and you can dress it up the corners with some flowers, such as Pansies.

There's this little piece of wire inside the bulb, called a fillament, that might have burned out. :razz: If I were you, I'd Sell the bike!!! Or you could just buy another lightbulb. :razz: Ok, if it's not a blown bulb: If you really wanted to, you can check to see if it's got power first, by taking an electrical meter to the socket and seeing if you've got juice first. If it's not getting juice, then you should probably work back from the switch with your meter and see where the power is dropping off. My money is on the bulb. And tell your busa friends at least the whole back end of the bike didn't fall off, and it didn't catch fire.

After riding the 250, I concur. However, it's her money. She DOES have some $ issues, and that plays a part, but she's SOOO tiny (95 lbs, soaking wet) that she's worried anything bigger than a 250 will be too much bike for her. I figure I'll let her get her feet wet, then when she gets the bug for something bigger, I'll buy the thing from her and maybe turn it into a trackbike or something.

Thanks for everyone's input. Checking around, I found a front wheel on Ebay which has the rotor for $10 right now. Replacement stocker is going to cost $190 or so, and I found an used one for about 60, so... no worries. I'd prefer it if she'd get a SV 650, but she hasn't been riding all that long, and maybe a 250 is OK for her until she gets the bug for something bigger.

$1,500, 7k miles. It's overpriced, though. I'll see if I can figure out what the valve train type is.

I went with a friend to check out a 96 Ninja 250 tonight. She's looking for a small starter sportbike, and saw this one in the paper. Of course, I found the bike underpowered, etc, but it had a couple of other problems. The front brake has a bit of a pulse problem... when you're slowing, it feels like it grabs, releases, grabs, releases... I'm thinking it's probably the brake rotor. Thoughts? Also.. it makes quite a bit of clicking noise, sounds like it's valve related. Not sure if an adjustement is in order, or if it's something more serious. The guy who owns it says it's always been like that, and it's the nature of the bike. Whaddaya think?

I had the same exact problem. Made me have to bungee it until the new one arrived.

Actually, I think Nik is somewhat close on the mark here. The key I usually use had a slight bend to it. Not overly noticable, but it was there. As I don't habitually abuse my key, I'm not sure how it got there, but... it's possible that it was the culprit. Most likely when I went to put the key in and turn something, it caused one of the tumblers to get stuck. I think that after I put in the graphite, etc, that eventually the guy at the dealership futzed around with it enough to break the tumbler loose, thereby temporarily aleviating the problem. Since I paid good money for the extended warranty, I'd prefer it if I actually got something out of it, such as fixing the locks when they break. Otherwise, I'd probably go the same route as was described in the article Joe mentioned, and just see if I could fix it myself. Locks and tumblers aren't rocket science, especially when you've got someone who took pictures. I've since taken the slightly bent key, and with the help of my trusty vice, been able to straightenit enough for it to work when put in the ignition both ways. Pretty screwy, but I'll take it. At least until the new lockset shows up.

So I stop today to fill the tank at the local Mobile station. Use the speedpass, put the key in the gas tank, fill the tank, close the lid, put the key in the ignition and It Won't Fucking Turn No matter WHAT I do, it won't turn. I just dropped it off at the dealer, they've never heard of this happening. Warranty work, but I won't have it back until Wed at the earliest :evil: :evil: as they have to order a new lockset for the whole bike. As I was typing this, they just called. they were playing with it, and got it to work, and since then it hasn't failed again. They're going to go ahead and order the new lockset, but if I want to come pick it up, and ride it all weekend, I can. Sigh.

Well, I had my parts guys order it by number. I'll measure the length and let you know. As for the torque value, as long as it's got a locking compound in place, I don't think it's a huge deal. 23 ft lbs is Ok if the threads are locked, considering our rear wheel is held on with 69 ft lbs..

Yes, I usually do, but this time I was in a bit of a hurry. :oops: The other side of the coin was that it was about 30 degrees outside when I last had the front wheel off, and it's possible that it was temperature related. Bottom line, is that it's holding up well, and I know better than to do THAT again. Duh.

Agreed, I'm not going to sweat the cost of a $5 part. Bolt is on order. The one that's in there will hold it until I get it in the next couple of days. It's sunny and 70 here. I dont' want to miss a great riding day. I was planning on getting a stripper to sit on the bike tonight and take a picture or two. :grin: It's my bad, since I didn't Loctite the bolt when I put it back in after the recent front tire change. I even know better. :oops: Rotors seem OK, I did some high speed brake tests on my way in today, and there's nothing wrong with them, so I 'm not going to sweat it at this time.

I'm glad I'm not the only one with that fantasy.