Furbird

I used Rain-X anti-fog in my old VW Beetle. I'm sure any of the motorcycle anti-fog shield products would work as well.

Because a lot of people just won't call the dealer at all for parts because they have this ingrained mentality that we are always higher than everybody else. For example, I just called the Lexus dealer and a set of front struts for a car was actually $20 a piece CHEAPER than aftermarket.

When it comes to AC stuff, I ONLY buy OEM, and this was before I worked for a dealership parts department. For GM stuff, Carquest and Oreilly's can get you Delphi equipment, which is GM, but much cheaper than the dealer. I know down here that Oreilly's even has a lot of Motorcraft original parts as well. I currently own two GM vehicles, and I bought GM compressors for both vehicles when they went out. Get the GM part number and check around on ebay and rockauto to price shop. If all else fails, you can try to get the dealer to price match, but if they won't, see what they'll do to lower the price so you don't have to deal with freight costs and the delay of ebay. It might be worth your time to spend a little more at the dealer to get it sooner.

If you have a real angled pick tool (not that cheapo little green or orange handled set from harbor freight) you could slide that in through the attachment hole and pull it up with that. I would suggest using some penetrating oil as well to help things along.

Mine is virtually identical to yours, except mine is black in the sections where yours is white. Awesome bike, absolutely no complaints, and it gets 50mpg. The only downside is that it turns quite a few RPM's at interstate speeds, and with aftermarket pipes it gets noisy. I use mine just for local cruising and back and forth to work. Great bike, and so solid you would think Honda built it.

I won't handload anything for self defense because I don't want the legal ramifications of it (if any, not a road I want to travel down.) I use store bought ammo for carry, reloads for target practice. But they are the same weight round for similar flight characteristics so it's not all for naught if it comes down to go-time.

This is why every single round I reload is visually inspected and inserted into a case gauge to make sure it is within spec. Any bulges prevent the round from fully seating in this gauge. it also has a lip on the inside at the end so you can check bullet press depth and case length. If anything extends out from either end of the gauge, it's a fail. http://www.dillonprecision.com/#/content/p...dgun_Case_Gages

www.slickguns.com I just ordered the 10 pack through Sportsman's Guide for less than $7 each. They are on backorder, but expected to ship by January 8th. There are several sites that still have them in stock for $10-14 each. Some sites are gouging already so if you can get a few, get them now before they go any higher. I'm already set so if mine don't ship no biggie, but for less than $7 a mag I had to bite.

So are you going to try and make it rideable again or parting it out? If you're parting it out, I'd like a shot at the stator and stator cover.

Because by the time you get it fixed, it might have been cheaper to replace it. Around here, it's $80 to have a radiator rodded, top and bottom tanks and seals replaced (or sides depending on your radiator design), and any leaks patched up. I spent $110 and got a brand new radiator with a 3 year warranty. Captain Obvious on why I replaced the radiator.

PS pumps are pretty durable, you can run them dry and they still function once you fill them back up. I've worked for Nissan for 7 years and we have replaced a grand total of one PS pump since I've been here (and I sell all the parts to the technicians, and check in the orders, so I would know.) Also, if there is no fluid, there is a leak, it doesn't just burn off. As far as the radiator goes, you can probably get one in the $100 range, dependent on vehicle. Check around though, as pricing can vary widely (we're talking $80-up aftermarket, to damn near $600 for a factory one.)

Well, crap. That's what I need, but they have a $20 minimum order. No boneyards around here, so I fabbed something up to get by.

I use Continentals, and I don't have to balance the tires. The factory Dunlops came with those little clamp on weights that pinch the lip in the center of the rim.

I don't know about Mazdas, but this is pretty commonplace on GM stuff. I've replaced that seal multiple times in both of my current vehicles, and they still go out, so I just keep checking the fluid level at every oil change. It's a fairly simple repair, IF you have a lift. Drain the fluid, remove driveshaft, count the number of exposed threads on the pinion nut, remove nut-yoke-seal, RTV new seal around the edge and install, reverse process.

Does anybody know where to get a pigtail that will work for the 99-up taillight? All I really need is the 3 metal connectors that slide into the white plastic connector (previous owner had apparently snatched on the wires instead of pushing the little lock on top and pulled nearly all the wire out of the metal connectors).

Dibs on the Corbin bags, if Joe (rockmeupto125) hasn't beat me to it.

My dragbike does this from time to time, and it only started it when I added the MPS autoshifter. I think my situation is the multiple ground signals it sends the coils to "kill" the engine for the shift, but it has never affected bike performance and the light goes off when you cycle the key.

... and you guys talk smack about my Furbird...

Roll wheelies in first, bounce up in 2nd, or turn on the nitrous and spray up 4th at 100. Not that I would know anything about that As far as which one to get, I have gone FI and will never go back. Motor fires every time, regardless of weather or altitude. Wheel bearings, steering stem bearings, voltage regulator, and the wire loom fix on the early FI bikes are your biggies. Steering stem bearings are the biggest PITA, but you do it once with the tapered bearings and you never have to worry about it again. Same thing with the wire loom fix. Switch the regulator out with the R1 and you're done with that. Unfortunately for me, front wheel bearings need to be kept in stock.

The problem with plugs is that the process of plugging the tire actually breaks belts in the tire because of the way you have to put it in. A patch plug (mushroom, inside plug, whatever you want to call it) uses a motorized rasp to cut through the belts instead of breaking them, so your gap in your belts is localized. Still, no more than two patches can be placed in a tire before it must be replaced (that's industry standard.) All that being said, I've plugged a tire and rode it until replacement, and I ride tires for 10k miles.

Pretty sure that's breather. Besides, the two lines that run to the wax unit have coolant running through them, which is what melts the wax and allows the idle to drop.

That is a smokin' deal. Wish you were closer.

You have to do the ground one FIRST, as it is the one that is more susceptible to water intrusion since water slings on it from the rear tire. In the picture you posted, that should be the connector, that big, black square lump right in front of the rear peg bolt. It's taped to the harness, it's not out in the open. Slice that open and you should see a brown connector with a cap on the end of it. The green one up by the engine is the positive side one, and it's rare that it needs to be bypassed. I had to do the one on my dragbike because the previous owners dogged the crap out of it, left it outside in the rain uncovered, and it was (and still is) missing the cowl finishers under the handlebars so water got directly on the connector. If you still have issues after fixing the ground (brown) connector, then you'll have to look at the positive (green) connector.

See that lump of black tape in your picture just in front of the foreward-most bolt of the rear passenger peg mount? That's the monster for the ground side. The power block is just like it but green, and it is in the harness taped inside the frame on the clutch side of the bike by the cylinder head. I learned that when I had to bypass it on the dragbike. That bike was so bad I had to replace entire lengths of wiring in it due to corrosion.

Check the cooling fan fuse.