Furbird

Last time I went in there I was looking for a solder sucker. Nobody in the store had any idea what that was. I found it and had to explain to them what it was for. Shoulda asked for a consulting fee. I miss the days of being able to go in there with a PC board and say "hey this is burned up, you got something that looks like this" and the old man go "yep, here you go." Just let me know what kind of vehicle you're wanting to add the wig-wags to and I can walk you through it. The projector lamps are the toughest because they use one bulb and have an electronic shutter that moves to focus the bulb between low and high. On a Ford, it doesn't even have a true ground going to the bulb. I know how to bypass all that without cutting any factory wiring at all.

As that site states, the only difference between the 4 pin and the 5 pin is the presence of 87a. You can always just not use that pin. We've used them for years in car audio, and I still probably have 10 or more of them laying around. I actually figured out how to integrate a wig-wag module in projector beam vehicles (like nearly all the PD vehicles have now) without having to buy that insanely overpriced $300 box by using a regular wig-wag module and 4 relays. They certainly come in handy when you know how they work.

If you need it to replace a current one in a certain slot, I could understand the search. But if you are fabbing something, you could swap it for a more standard 30 amp SPDT 5 pin relay found in nearly every vehicle on the planet. Wire it how you see fit and tuck it somewhere.

I've gone back and forth from Rotella to Mobil 1 to Mobil Delvac and Delvac is what I'm currently running. It's a diesel oil but not synthetic, as a lot of the synthetic versions have friction modifiers that will ruin a clutch. I've got over 50k on my street bird, and I also run that in the drag bike and in my Suzuki Boulevard that has about 30k on it. The real key is to not use a cheap filter. I run Purolator Pure One filters, and they all take the same one that fits a 2002-2006 4 cylinder Altima.

Tax season (I work in Revenue) and the weekend of my dad's birthday. I could force the vacation request, but I can't move my dad's birthday. Slim to none is better odds than me being at RacerXX. I did finally get the bike back running though, so that's a plus.

PM sent.

99 is the changeover for the wheels, same time they did fuel injection. Can't help you with the interchange stuff, all my birds run stock components. Even the slick on the Furbird is on a stock bird wheel.

Harbor Freight sells an adhesive rubber that you could stick on the bottom of ramps to keep them from moving around. I actually use this and cut pieces off of it to keep my printer from sliding around in the backseat of my state vehicle. http://www.harborfreight.com/self-adhesive-rubber-safety-step-tread-98856.html

Another $800 and you could have a more useful lift. And that was the first thing that popped up on google (in other words, I didn't even try hard to find a better price.) If you have the room and the slab, it's a no-brainer to get a lift that allows you to do far more things with it. https://www.derekweaver.com/rodders-garage/2-post-lifts/forward-i10-certified-overhead-2-post-lift/?gclid=Cj0KEQiAkO7CBRDeqJ_ahuiPrtEBEiQAbYupJYQtpl8Lje2MwQTxad5qe0RETzzqxWb8wHIIslENG9oaAiPa8P8HAQ

Um, not quite. Maybe for him, but for me, it is priceless. It makes all vehicle maintenance much easier, makes major work SUPER easy, and the one time you wish you had one more than covers the investment. Mine was around $3,000 installed (I wired it myself) and my folks gave it to me as a gift. It has already saved them that much money with me fixing both my dad's unintended offroad adventure which bent the bumper into the front wheel, and my brother hitting the dog a couple of years back. They buy the parts, and I do the labor for free. And no insurance getting involved either. A lift pays for itself when you own or maintain as many vehicles as I do.

I've got a lift, and I'm telling you right now, do NOT go cheap on a lift. I've witnessed arms bend due to being rated higher than true capacity, I've seen locks fail for the same reason, and a car bouncing off the pavement (or worse) is not worth saving a few hundred bucks on a knockoff. I stood saucer-eyed while a truck I was under less than 30 seconds earlier had an arm fly out and fall off a lift (at a customers business, not my house.) I might have been 6 feet from it. Heart dropping doesn't begin to touch that. Slab is number one. If it's not 4 inches thick minimum, a lift is out of the question. Power is number two. If you don't have 220, you don't need a lift. A 110 lift limits your options and will probably eliminate anything trustworthy. It's also slower than cold molasses in the winter time and has a low lift capacity. If it's not ANSI and ALI certified, WALK AWAY. http://www.autolift.org/ Those cheap ass ebay lifts are not worth it, make ABSOLUTELY SURE it is ANSI and ALI labeled, and if there is a question, you can search on the above website to make sure that it is. I personally have a Forward, and when I was looking to buy, it was either Forward or Rotary on my short list (Rotary owns both companies.) I went with Forward because it has the widest drive-through available, and uses all Rotary parts (which the whole world stocks.) I can put my full size Chevy truck on the lift and open both doors AND get my 215lb ass out of the truck without being squeezed. You can't do that on a Rotary, you have to favor one side to be able to get out of the vehicle. Or lift it with it sitting so far offset you take a chance on disaster. Get truck adapters if it doesn't come with them, because regardless as to whether or not you have a truck, eventually you will need to lift a truck. Also, buy more lift than you need, because inevitably you're going to buy a bigger vehicle and you don't want to have to buy a new lift. 2 post is the way to go for nearly everything you need to work on, a four post is easier to use but the wheels have to stay on (unless you buy slide jacks and then you're in SUPER deep on a lift.) There's some things in life you just don't go cheap on. Toilet paper. Reese's cups. And a lift holding your pride and joy in the air while you stand underneath it.

Seriously? You're worried about that? You would have been having seizures if you would have seen the crap in the hoses of my friends truck. Fill that sucker up and rock on.

Just went through this with a friend of mine this past weekend. He knew for a fact he had a crack in the radiator, as he could see it leaking out of the bottom. But he was also seeing intermittent coolant on the floorboard. Obviously, that screams heater core, but when I opened the box, it was dry. We put a radiator in it and already had the heater core, and when I cut the hoses off (23 years old, they aren't coming off any other way) the corrosion on the inlet side of the heater core was so bad that it had made a pinhole in the hard line and was leaking coolant out that was dripping on the ground while running. The intermittent on the floorboard was actually the coolant finding the path of least resistance from time to time and running along the pipe and going through the firewall. We get all that done, refill the radiator, he cranks it up, no flow through the radiator. Truck starts overheating within 90 seconds. Shut it down, bought a thermostat and a water pump to eliminate all options. Turns out it was the thermostat locked in the closed position, but the impeller had rust on it and probably would have let go in the next year anyway. Refilled it and as soon as he started it, it sucked down the coolant level. You can tell if it's flowing because if everything is as normal, the water should be rushing through the radiator with the cap off, which you can visually see. Also, check to make sure you don't have a crack in your reservoir. The coolant could be leaking there if you don't have leaks anywhere else. By the way, a new radiator is usually only $100 or so, and having a radiator repaired is nearly that much. Might as well get a new one and not worry about it. Also significantly reduces downtime.

What generation mini is it? I think they're on 4th now.

Tin snips are fine for straight, thin metal, but for thicker metal, or already shaped metal, I use an electric angle grinder with cutoff wheels. Air cutoff tools take a TON of air, and spin so fast that when the wheels break (and they will) they become projectiles. The electric grinder doesn't spin as fast and the cutoff wheels are thicker.

http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?/topic/54408-fuel-filter/ This was actually my post on the older forum, made into a permanent post on the Useful Links section here. In the case of the 01, the original fuel filter had a hard line that was bent, 99-00 had a curved hose and used a straight in-out filter. Oreilly's or any auto parts store can find you a pre-bent hose or you can just use fuel injection hose and curve it on your own, as you have PLENTY of room inside the tank to make the bend without it crimping. Then again, you could just use a hard line with two sections of straight hose. Whatever floats your boat. The factory one is $50, my version is $3. I have never replaced the pump seal on any of my bikes and I've had the pumps out multiple times. No leaks. I would open up that connector and make sure it doesn't have any corrosion inside it. If it's clean, you can dielectric grease the snot out of it and tape it up even better than OE. Better safe than sorry. On the Furbird, it was so corroded I had to replace entire lengths of wiring. One went from the connector all the way to the fan and had corroded THAT connector. I had the ground issue on one of my bikes too. The bolt (or stud, can't remember) had actually worked it's way loose. Good on you for checking and correcting that as well. Might solve your whole problem. I wasn't referencing the injectors as an upgrade, I meant if you needed a replacement. You can buy new aftermarket injectors for a Busa for $20 but the Honda ones (which are identical, but have the ability to flow more fuel) are $125. Funny how Busa boys use Blackbird parts for an upgrade... Regardless, a vast majority of electrical problems are ground related. If you clean all that up (as you are) and eliminate that as a problem, it makes finding the real problem a lot easier. Side note: on my injector fiasco, it was #4 that was locked up and it did not throw an EFI code. When I swapped it with #3, it threw the code. Weird.

Have you ever replaced the fuel filter? I don't know if 01's had the test connectors, but it could be an issue there (I know 99's have a negative connector by the battery but there is also a positive connector on the clutch-side frame rail next to the engine that will corrode, been there!) You might also want to make sure you don't have a corrosion issue at the spade connector where it attaches to the coil. The rubber boot will get brittle with age and will trap moisture in it, or possibly even start corroding the wire causing a voltage drop. I just went through a stuck injector issue myself, and it hesitated like you say before it just quit working altogether. I was thinking the whole time it was a coil/wire/plug problem. I've experienced all these issues (3 birds, the one I bought new, the bike I bought to build for a friend, and a nearly destroyed parts bike that ended up becoming Furbird) so I've seen all kinds of stuff in the "how the hell did that get messed up" categories.

The system doesn't have to be perfect to function normally. Obviously it's a sign that something is leaking slowly, but if it's not pissing fluid it's not a huge concern. My dad's car would leak fluid constantly, had a crack half way down the side (plastic side tanks.) That's catastrophic. My brother's car would steam but only at operating temperature, had a crack at the top of the radiator (plastic top and bottom tanks.) That's livable (and it did for two months because he didn't tell me) but won't kill the vehicle. What you are talking about is more like an annoyance.

I found my extra set of throttle bodies from my folks house. In total, I went through 7 injectors between the Furbird and the spare set to find one that worked. That one was still not working 100% until I rode the bike about 10 miles and was able to get some good non-ethanol fuel through it and got the bike good and warm. All good now.

Here is the legal threshold for junk in Oklahoma: 5. "Junked vehicle" means any vehicle which is incapable of operation or use on the highway, has no resale value except as a source of parts or scrap and has an eighty percent (80%) loss in fair market value. Source: http://oklegal.onenet.net/oklegal-cgi/get_statute?99/Title.47/47-1105.html

A title brand is determined by the state, and depending on the guidelines and loss amount of the claim depends on how it is classified. Junk is the same as Certificate of Destruction and Parts Only, basically it can only be used as parts for another vehicle with a repairable brand on it. Every state has their own guidelines as to what the claim amount makes it fall under each brand, but Florida puts a certificate of destruction on a LOT of vehicles, as their laws allow them to do that with damage that exceeds 50%. Louisiana has certificate of destruction branded nearly every car that was involved in their most recent flood.

If it's junk, it can't be titled anywhere in the US again. Still, you could sell everything but the frame and scrap that on the certificate of destruction or junk title they issue as the final documentation. Or make it a drag/track bike.

That's a pretty limited window, almost sounds more like something related to that particular speed range. But only in one grip is the puzzling part. I wonder if maybe something has come loose inside the bar itself, or if something is in a harmonic vibration exclusively on the right fork. Maybe a rotor is loose, or a brake caliper bolt, could even be a fender bolt on that side. Brake lever, bar end, etc. I'd check every bolt on the right fork and move from there. Or, when it's happening, use your left hand and put pressure on the brake lever, bar end, right side of the windscreen, dash, anything that is reachable to try to find the external source. Then you'll have to start pulling plastics. I think it's up front, not in the rear.

They sell rebuild kits for the Busa injectors (which are identical but flow at a different rate) so they have to be repairable. Amazingly, the injectors for a 2000 Honda CRV are also identical (and about 1/4 the cost of a Blackbird injector) but I can't find the flow numbers on them.

Well, they're already screwed, so it's not going to hurt to try and soak one and see if it frees up. I've already got to source at least one at this point, so might as well try to unbreak the broken one since otherwise it's going into File 13.