Furbird

OK, gotta say it, that is badass. The last thing I need is another bird (as that would put me at four) but DAMN that paint is cool looking.

Change it now, just to be safe. When mine went out, it filled the entire engine. Fuel was actually above the butterflies in two of the throttle bodies. Put on quite the show when I pulled out the plugs and hit the starter.

Salvage title or clean? That right side frame damage would be a bear. You can't exactly pull that back out, and that's the main fairing mount for the right side, so you'd have to do some rigging (or know an aluminum welder that could build you a new tower.) The forks look twisted, although that could be the camera angle. Your state may be mileage exempt (10+ years is exempt in Alabama) so the mileage isn't that big of an issue. I know it sucks, but you're probably better off selling it as a parts bike and finding something else (once you heal up.)

Had no idea about this process. I'll have to check and see if my new rotors have buttons or not (can't remember) but will definitely have to check the ones on the dragbike and the other bird as well.

Might not be that. I left a disc lock on mine once by accident, got almost a full rotation in before it hit the caliper, and bent the rotor.

You would think that after all this time, SOMEBODY would have made a stick on cover like they offer for most sportbikes.

I swore off of carbed bikes after nothing but constant problems with my prior ownership of such entities. I specifically waited until 1999 to get an EFI bike, and all 4 of the bikes I own currently have EFI. It's not a shot against anybody, just a personal preference.

If only it had been an FI bike...

This forum brought to you by Warner Brothers. Ba-deep-ba-deep-ba-deep that's all folks! Pretty sure if you need a starter Joe has 15 or 20 he can sell you cheap.

I pulled one of mine apart and about 1/3 of that squiggly material ended up in the garbage. Just simply couldn't get it all shoved back in there. I honestly don't know of any way to clean it, as you can tell, whatever is trapped in there is trapped in there pretty much permanently. I'm genuinely surprised the pump has that much junk on it and the tank is that clean. Mine looked like somebody had done a horrendous paint job with brown fleckstone. There is no liner, it's all metal. I had to go through mine with either 600 or 1000 grit (can't remember) and wiped everything I could get to with an old t-shirt. Blew compressed air through it a few times and kept wiping out junk until it was close enough for government work, then washed it with some fuel just to make sure. New pump, works fine. Now I only run E-free fuel like I do in my lawn equipment.

It's normal. It's kinda like a pre-filter for the sock. Any big things floating in the tank get caught in that rough Brillo looking stuff and don't stop the sock itself. You pull all that shit out and it will not all go back in. The corrosion is not. Looks like Obama gas and long term parking with low fuel levels. Just went through that with one of my birds that sat for a year. Walls of the tank probably have that same grimy/rusty look to them as well I would bet.

You can look in Zero's post about the fuel sender issue and I have pictures of the OTHER connector that nobody ever checks and on one of my bikes was ate up with corrosion. Might be the source of your issue.

I used the zip ties on my van, but I'm with everybody else on this one and would recommend the brackets. A bike moves more violently than a big heavy van, just by wheelbase alone.

......aaaaaandd done.

Somebody want to let Scott know that his bike he dreamed of building is done and for sale?

Buy just the pump. I have one like that in my bird right now, no issues (but I got mine on ebay since I don't have Prime.)

You can buy the straight filter and curve your own hose. The only difference is that in the older bikes they have a curved rubber hose, and the newer version they integrate the curve into the pipe.

Direct power the fuel pump. If it's not powering up, there you go. Been there, done that. Buy a used unit on ebay or a replacement fuel pump itself (not the entire module like Honda tries to sell you.) Also replace the fuel filter while you have it apart.

Oh, its rusted pretty bad. I had to scrub the tank out as well. Pretty sure it had E10 in it when the injector went out and it was low on fuel. Quite the mess. Probably can't afford a new one on government salary. I don't have that Dave money!

All mine are 99's, and I'm referring to the float assembly that goes to the gauge. Looking back through posts, it's probably what you just installed.

My sender is bad in the flat black bird, but that's because it sat up for a year with a dead injector. Guess I'll have to get a used one on ebay because I shudder to think what an OEM one would cost.

Couldn't get the iphone to focus on the actual connector but you kinda get the idea.

Here you go, pulled these pics off of bird#3. If you pop the filler panel off the left side of the tank and look down at the harness, that's where you should see this big square lump. Picture 3 shows you the throttle body boot clamp bolt as a point of reference. So it's actually just behind the engine, not beside it, like I originally thought. Like I said, it's been about 10 years since I had to bypass it on the dragbike. Sorry for the insanely small pictures, I had to take these with my borescope.

It's been a long time since I had to do that repair, but I'm pretty sure it's in the main wiring harness, inside the left rail (clutch side) somewhere near where the coil bolts onto the airbox. I stumbled upon it chasing corroded wires in the dragbike and it is nearly identical to the one for the grounds, which is back behind the battery box. IIRC, the ground one is brown, the power one is green. Both are taped up into the harness.

Don't know what year bike you are working on, but if it's the ground connector corroded you're going to be pissed. And if it's the positive connector like all my 99's have (identical to the ground one but all hot wires, located on the clutch side frame rail by the valve cover) you're going to be even MORE pissed as you have to pull the tank AGAIN.