Furbird

99 or 00 you're going to have to do the loom regardless. If you're not a member here or the other bird site that's UK based, then 99% chance it hasn't been done. Replacing the harness will NOT fix the issue. BTW, there's a positive connector too that rarely has issues but Furbird did and I had to fix it as well. Especially if the bike was left to the elements which this one was. Mileage shouldn't even be a consideration. You kill a bird, you've done something. They die because they get wadded up, not because of engine problems. Buy a used shock if need be. I'm at over 50k on mine and it's fine. And that's drag racing it for well over 1,000 passes. Never blown a fork seal either even with the front strapped down to control wheelies. Which means it's at max pressure already and then landing 15-20 times a night. About the only thing you'll do to these is the loom fix once, the cam chain tensioner once, steering head bearings once (tapered please and thank you), and depending on how hard you are on them, front wheel bearings. Outside of that it's standard maintenance (plugs, filters, brake pads, chains, tires).

OMG, if that is a direct quote as indicated, they definitely know nothing about our birds.

I would go nationwide and see what Uship comes back with for freight. If you found an east coast bike on a deal and had to pay freight you'd still be the same money out of pocket. Also, with as many of us as there are, somebody is likely to be within an acceptable distance to go check it out. BTW, don't know if you've price a paint job lately but they ain't cheap, and Chinese plastics do not fit like OEM. I have a set and I wouldn't recommend them to anybody.

John, it's a 99 bike so that is correct.

Facebook Marketplace is far worse. The only person that I've talked to from Craigslist ended up buying the item he wanted. Then bought another item the very next weekend after he got paid again. Out of literally hundreds of replies from Facebook, I've had 4 people actually schedule a meetup and all 4 bought the item instantly. Marketplace is now what Craigslist used to be, except Facebook never removes the ad, so you could be asking about a product that sold a year ago that the seller never took down.

I don't keep up with these things, but I imagine the wheels and exhaust probably sell for half of what he's asking for the whole thing.

If it's got circuit breakers, it's hinky. That used to be a thing back in car audio but then they realized that 12 volt circuit breakers never broke when they were supposed to. Fuse is much more reliable.

The more integrated it is, the more expensive it becomes. My 96 has a Pioneer radio, and the backup camera is a separate screen mounted down low. I also run a GPS whenever I'm on the road. All of that built into a radio would cost multiple times more than I've spent on the three systems separately. If you find a low cost radio that has a screen that's backup camera ready that's great, but I haven't been in the market for anything in a while so I can't help with that aspect.

That throttle sounds like a problem until you get used to it. But by the time you get used to it, it may be too late. Badass ride, just wish it wasn't in Louisville.

Get the double din. If you're going to start adding amps, subs, replacing door speakers, then you need to brand shop but it sounds like that's not a big deal to you. They do make harnesses that are pre-wired direct fit from your truck to whatever radio you buy, but it's usually limited to larger brands (Pioneer, Sony, Kenwood, etc.) It's not difficult if you don't get a pre-fab adapter, because if you get the wiring plug that fits your factory wiring and an aftermarket radio they are usually color-to-color matched as most companies are pretty standardized when it comes to that. Most double din radios come with the brackets to fit popular vehicles, which your truck definitely falls in that category. I personally would recommend Pioneer and Metra installation products, as I did 12 volt installs as a professional for 9 years. The only thing I have that doesn't have a Pioneer in it is my 2500hd and that's because the PO already replaced the radio with one with USB-in and bluetooth.

Good move. I ordered a set for my HD right after I bought the enclosed car hauler. In non-extended mode I can just barely see the sides to back it through the gate without having to get out and telescope them in. Extended I have plenty of rear view.

My KZ was so low it didn't even have a kickstand, you just leaned it slightly to the right and it sat on the header. The sucky part of that was the 3 closest tracks were all right turn exit roads so it made for some wide radius and very slow turn-offs on the big end. But we all had them so everybody was in the same boat. It's funny when a slingshot dragster has a tighter turning radius than a 7 foot long motorcycle.

Best Buy usually has a remote start car alarm on sale installed for $300 or so. Then your truck can be locked, unlocked, starts and warms up, and if you don't want the false alarm problems just tell them to not install the shock sensor so it only goes off if the door is opened. Cheapest option is a weatherproof switch like would be on a boat and you hide it in a fenderwell or possibly drill into the base of the door mirror and install it in that. I've seen that done before also.

Meanwhile in Alabama, we have KZ1000's riding around with Vance and Hines Sidewinders with no baffle. The Furbird (race bike) has a D&D full system with their exhaust from hell or whatever they called it which is a straight pipe. It is ungodly loud but at the track if you can't see me coming, you can damn sure hear me!

Dual slip-ons still saves a ton of weight (those stock mufflers are HEAVY) but a full system is so much lighter. Function before style, that's why we don't ride Harleys (well, most of us haven't gone to the dark side!) You can remove decals with heat, but I personally just catch an edge and pull them off manually. Residual glue can be cleaned up with WD40 and a terry cloth with no paint damage.

That bike says "The Flying Dutchman" on it, wonder if that's a member or former one, as that sounds familiar. As far as the stickers go, nothing an exacto knife and some time won't remove. Wheels could easily be painted back black. Why you want stock exhaust I have no clue, but you do you. That was the first thing I took off my 99 when I bought it new and put a full system on it. Changed the oil and the exhaust on the trailer after initial break-in.

Same on my 99. And I noticed it on the way to work one morning. I pulled the tank at work and we rigged the shit out of it to get it to hold until I got home. The crazy thing is the one on the drag bike, which has been pulled far, far more times and was cut to feed the wet nitrous system has never leaked.

If you have every dollar you've ever made, you haven't lived. I'm sure most of us can say "where'd all the money go" then start naming off fun times, fuck-ups, and all kinds of stories. I could be 10 times richer, but 1,000 times dumber. And lessons get more expensive as you get older so it's best to learn them whey they're cheap and you're young.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-Snowmobile-ATV-Outboard-Jet-Ski-Boat-Engine-Kill-Stop-Switch-Safety-Tether/362201903844?hash=item5454ea72e4:g:wycAAOSwm3paS0vU Easy peasy lemon squeezy

https://www.bmwmtkisco.com/used/Jeep/2017-Jeep-Wrangler-542cdfde0a0d0cc71a38a4b43c16d08f.htm That's not a lot of markup relatively speaking.

Stock (ish) bikes are usually exempted from most of the rules on a test and tune or street-only night. All of the tracks I've gone to are basically full leathers, gloves over the wrist, boots over the ankles, and a DOT full-face helmet that you must keep the visor down on. The only mod I had to have on my drag bird was a lanyard shut down switch. I used one from a jetski and wired it in tandem with the run/off switch on the handlebars. It attaches with a clip to the zipper on my left sleeve.

High end of trade-in value and a check in your hand instead of numbers on a trade-in sheet that they can manipulate. Sweet!

I'm guessing (hoping, praying) that somebody took the pick-up tubes out of those bottles before filling them. When inverted like that they need to have the tubes removed if you didn't know. The stock engine can handle at least 2.5 times that amount of nitrous, but good luck keeping the nose down.

You can probably smooth out the cuts on those ram air tubes as nobody will ever see it and they don't fit perfectly even from the factory. Headlight, cowl, front fender, check the forks, might need the stay might not, just have to check for straightness. Check on ebay or the for sale section to see if anybody has that stuff. Cowl shipping is a big friggin box so shipping will be high.

See box 9 for the 97-98 models in this link. 9 doesn't show up as applicable for the 99-up. https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/hon/506c1f98f870023420a2f4b7/upper-cowl