mikeG

The electrexusa website has a good troubleshooting diagram for charging systems. Should be able to pinpoint the issue. Buy a Honda OEM RR though. People have trouble with aftermarket MikeGwww.electrexusa.com

If you take shocks off and test them by hand, the resistance to rebound is what counts. Shocks are made to compress relatively easily then damp the spring rebound quickly. If you want to go premium, go Bilstein--usually around $50-60 each for trucks. These are the best, no comparison to domestic shocks. MikeG

I'm guessing that the reason for getting the fuel in the morning is that it has settled out all night, but most pumps have filters, so I'm not sure about that either. The best FI cleaner is Techron(Chevron)--everything else is just snake oil. BG44K also good but much harder to find. My friend had a bike that he left all winter with no stabilizer and would hardly run in the spring. Ran a bottle of Techron through and good as new. MikeG

Been using the 5W40 Rotella Syth for couple years in bikes and cars--no complaints so far. Seems to work as well as Mobil 1. Walmart has the Rotella for about $13/gal--a steal! MikeG

Just like mine except I have the dual CF models. Wonder which ones are louder. Mine are pretty throaty. MikeG

Yeah, that's what I do too. I don't obsess over getting bubbles out of teh Mityvac. After doing the mityvac, just do a couple of squeeze hold cycles to make sure there are no bubbles. If the levers are firm, you are probably OK. MikeG

On many cars(VW's for example) the service manual recommends opening the bleed valve when pushing caliper pistons in. That way you get rid of the dirty fluid rather than pshing it back up into the system. Especialy important for ABS brakes. mikeg

I have the Yosh's and they are about as loud as I'd want them. The dula exhausts are louder than singles. MikeG

Same here. Might be some in the salvage yards now but not last year. Also might want to try the VFR list. VFR guys may upgrade to helibars etc. MikeG

Do the VFR bars. I had both and ended up with the VFR bars. You can simulate the Genmars by just loosening up the bars an lifting them about a 1/2". Genmars only go up about 3/4". VFR bars go up about 3/4 or 1" and back about 1 ". Then you can lift those a little too! MikeG

http://www.lockhartphillipsusa.com/pages/p...-sub3.asp?id=97 I have a set of these that I tried on the XX. If you lower the pegs, you should cut off the kickstand arm or it will interfere with shifting. Pushing them back does not work well unless you also search out a longer shift lever. They would work well for raising pegs but I did not try them in that mode. I have the knurled silver finish ones if someone wants them--how does $40 sound? New=$60 and these have minimal use. MikeG

Bosch 3323 or 3300--Autozone $5, Mobil 1 110-$10 MikeG

Used to have a VFR and had the RR fail. The VFR list guys had lots of trouble with Electrex RR's. For a while they would not even sell the RR for the VFR. Buy one of the new OEM RR's. Much heavier duty now. MikeG

He used a multicolor foam that looks like a thick version of the stuff they put under premium carpet, especially in wet/damp areas. Fairly firm. He said it was standard foam used for cars/bikes etc. I asked about closed cell foam, but he only recommended that for floatable cushions for boats--said the foam doesn't hold up with pressure. He then put a sheet of thin--maybe 1/4" thick foam over that, then a plastic membrane to keep out water then marine grade vinyl. Looks a bit overstuffed but that's what I asked for. Rode the bike about 2 hrs since(on vacation for a week) and much more comfortable than the stock or Sargent seat. Who knows? MikeG

Check this out Got a Sargent seat with the bike but it was built for someone with short legs. I'm 6' tall with 32-33 inseam. Was going to send it back to Sargent for redo but tried a local upholsterer(Kelly's-Natick Ma) and he did a great job for me. Built up the drivers area by 3/4" and leveled to tank, widened the front. Moved transition forward about 1.5" to give the passenger more room. Leveled the passenger seat and flattened it for confort. Made new marine grade upholstery. Let me try it after doing foam but before upholstery. Price $135--Can you believe it? Driver area now comfortable all the way up to the tank. Extra height gives more legroom. Lots of room to move around and change positions. Looks a little bulkier than the standard seat but does the job. MikeG

I have the VFR bars and have them raised about 3/8"--work great. I have the Genmars that came with the bike but not worth putting on under the bars--just cosmetic. MikeG

Just a stock seat with aftermarket upholstery. Have 2 seats. Just had my Sargent seat recontoured for more comfort but no pictures yet. Wheels were pretty easy, just masked off the tires carefully, then a few coats of paint remover, stripping pad, steel wool, mother's metal polish. Easy to clean also. MikeG

The spokes and inner part of the rim ae rough casting finish. The outside of the rim is semi polished. What I did was strip the outer rim and steel wool it to nice finish, then buff off the gloss on the paint on the spokes and painted it silver. Looks real nice IMHO. Check it out.

http://www.convertibars.com/index.cfm this looks pretty interesting and well designed--I'll stick with my VFR bars but this might be worth a look MikeG

You still have to cut the tabs to correct the angle for the new bars. The CBR bars are in front of the fork tube, the VFR bars are in line. Cutting the tabs has nothing to do with giving you more length. You don't need longer lines, but if you want to change them, don't go more than 2". MikeG

wrong spark plug wires connected to wrong plugs, or wrong wires conneced to wrong coils? That would make it backfire like crazy but not start. Ohterwise take out the advancer and see if it works. MikeG

you smart folks probably noticed already, but the issue with the part numbers appears to be the difference between 0(zero) and O(the letter O). The last 3 characters are D-zero-zero. MikeG Have the bars on my XX and they work great!

VFR bars lifted about 1/4" and rotated back make for a comfortable yet still sporty position. I had the adjustable pegs but took them off. I have a Sargent seat but it was made for teh prev owner so the front is too low and narrow. Once I get that fixed, it'll be perfect. MikeG

I have a set of those LP adjustable pegs like Joe had in his referenced post. Hav had them on and off the bike several times, and they are off right now. Problem is when you adjust them full down, they interfere with the sidestand, even after cutting off the side branch. I then pushed them back and down a little, which was pretty comfortable but very hard to shift because the peg was too far away from the shift lever. Might try them again if I can find a shift lever that is longer. Anybody know of one? Like someone said, these were probably designed for being mounted in the "up" position, and would then work fine. I may do the remove the rubber thing, and I am also going to get my Sargent seat built up about an inch. MikeG

I also had the 57's until last week, when I picked up a screw in the rear tire. Tires had 9000 miles so not worth patching at $35. I put 020's front and rear, and really like them after a short 30 mile ride. Had them on a VFR last year and liked them there also. The dealer warned me against putting different tires, especially a new rear and an old front. The tires harden as they age, so you will end up with a higher traction tire on the rear, which is not good for emergency handling. If they are original tires on a 98, they are probably worse than mine was. If the front tire is newer, I would go for a new 57 rear. MikeG