speedygeezer

I assume you're talking about fabric loops, right? Yes, these work fine, but I don't like using them when sharp metal edges are involved. Some of those things are prone to tearing due to abrasion and the associated heat produced, plus they are just one more thing you have to mess with. A steel hook is fool-proof.

http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/frames.cfm?m...amp;parent=5570

"The first thing I had to do was remove ten links from the 120 chain. The XX uses a 110 chain, but most new chains are 120 links and the customer is expected to remove the extra links." 110 link chains can be ordered - some shops just carry the 120 linkers to save on inventory.

I run a hook up and over each side of the lower steering stem, then hook the other ends to floor anchors that are located so that the straps don't touch any part of the bike after they are cinched down. Make sure the front wheel cannot rotate. I guess you could turn the wheel to one side, but that would put extra force on the fork tubes that they may not like. Cinch the straps (ratchet straps only here) down tightly enough so that the bike cannot bounce low enough so that the hooks can come loose from the floor anchors. Make sure the hooks on the steering stem don't interfere with brake lines, etc. No rear straps required.

"Keep in mind that in a right side impact, the lower fairing mount that is an extension of the oilpan is often broken off. If you can push in the lower fairing bolt, then its been broken." And, if you still have the mount, you can take it to a welding shop and have them weld it back on......and pocket the cost of the new oil pan. Or, if you're really cheap, JB Weld will work, too. :icon_hump:

Sprocket is on the way. :-)) Thanks, gents.

"PM me if interested." You have a pm.

Called them but no answer..must have left for the weekend already. Tks, Stan.

Last week I ordered a new chain and sprockets, called the shop today and learn everything came in except the front sprocket. Seems it is on back order, and no telling when it will get here. So, if anyone has such an item laying around that they would part with and could overnite it to me next Monday, that would be fantastic. When my new one comes in, I'll send it to you. Or, if anyone knows where I might otherwise buy one, that would work, too. Thanks. Joe

http://www.sport-touring.net/forums/index....ic,14916.0.html

I've got a bruised & battered one that's smooth up to about 85 mph. The center hub is tweaked a bit, and the rim was also bent in a couple places. Off my '00 Bird. Cheap.

"hmm - which Avons are is the Shinko grip as good as? Avon 45/46 combo - ran 3 sets of those, too. I found no difference in grip between those and the 009's. I did try a Pilot Road on the rear, but it slipped all over the place. A buddy had a similar experience with his, and it turned out that the build dates on our tires were 2 weeks apart. I think we just ran into a couple of bad tires because those were the only two times I've heard of Roads slipping in corners. But, I can't believe we're the only two people who had that problem..... "I'm not Rossi by a long shot, but love to lay the bike down on Dragon-like roads all day long.. I just don't want to lay it ALL the way down, LOL!" Me neither. Been there, screw that.

Also inspect inside the neck to make sure the race (for the lower bearing on the steering stem) hasn't been broken loose from the neck. Rust on welds is usually indication of broken or stressed welds as the paint becomes separated from the metal.

We've been using it for years -works like a charm. If a plastic spatula isn't included with the kit, go to an auto parts store and get one - tell them what you want it for. When applying over compound curves, just take it easy and slow, and don't try to put the whole piece on at once. Start at one corner and remove the backing as you go. If, by chance, you screw up, that same auto parts store probably has a whole roll of 3M material they'd be glad to sell you. Find a buddy who has an account at that store, have him buy it for you, and you'll save about 33%...... Happy spreading. Oops - forgot to add this. If you need to remove and of this stuff, a hair dryer helps a lot. Just don't heat one spot for very long or you'll warp the plastic.

"Nothin' wrong with it. It still got bumps. Put it back on. " It's in the "spare parts" bin, just in case we need it.

I just installed my 5th set of Shinko 009's - $179.90 delivered for the pair from Tire Express. (Includes $12 frt.) Front tire mileage is equal to Avon's but I get an extra 1500 miles out of the rear than I did with the Avons. Grip is as good as the Avons, even in the rain. Only issue with them is the front cups out no matter what air pressure I run. After 7500 miles it still has plenty of tread, but the buzzing in corners gets annoying. Best thing is their cost, or lack thereof.

Or, "Have I gotten my money's worth out of it?"

Couple of things: since you admittedly know little about engine mechanicals, it may help you in your journey to know a couple of terms. CCT = cam chain tensioner. This term is commonly (why, I have no idea) given to the "lifter", which is the gizmo that keeps pressure on the cam chain tensioner against which the cam chain rides. I mention this just in case you start exchanging terms with the shop mechanics and parts guys.....it helps to speak the same language. As has been said, the lifter is a common replacement item and does indeed produce a noticeable sound. However, this sound (and associated vibration felt in the hand grips and foot-pegs) is one that typically increases with time, not - as you said - all of a sudden. It is most noticeable between 4K and 5K rpm - outside those numbers, it normally is quiet and smooth, and does not produce a singular "tapping" sound. Usually it is said to sound like a bunch of marbles rattling around inside the engine. And there is no visible difference between a good lifter and a bad lifter. Now that the engine is apart in a dealer's shop, you are pretty much limited on your options. You can have them put it back together at additional cost, or take it home as is and have an experienced mechanical friend do the same thing. This way, he can re-assess the sound that it was making and go from there. You can also replace the lifter to see if that alters the sound, just to rule it out. Or in, as the case may be. It's very difficult to diagnose someone else's "sounds". I agree with what Chris and Joe said about the cam chain itself not being a likely candidate for replacement. The main thing to do is to get it out of that shop with no further repairs.

" Hello everyone. I just got my Blackbird a few weeks ago" Which means that you might want to get used to it before you make any changes to it. As others have said, this bike handles pretty good as is. True, the suspension is a bit stiff, but a steering damper is one thing it doesn't need. Try a Super Brace - it may solve your problem. Your previous bike(s) may also be influencing your impressions of the XX, as well as any riding instruction you have had. Or haven't had.

Exhaust tuning is a black art, and getting "it" right takes a lot of testing and re-designs. We have been working with a supplier in CA for several years, experimenting with different expansion chambers (as well as various engine parts) for our Suzuki LT 500 two-stroke atv's, and each time he sends us a new piece, the grin gets wider. (Well, not exactly EVERY time......) We have five quads that have identical mods to their engines, so we have the luxury of mixing and matching various parts on different quads. We don't have a dyno, but we test them via drag racing (on asphalt and on sand) and 400-500 foot hill climbs, and it is quite obvious which exhaust works best. And each of us rides all the quads so that we get a consensus on which one is best. Now, as to comparing our two-strokes to the Bird's four-stroke engine, these are obviously different animals, and figuring out how to control four cylinders is a lot more complicated than dealing with just one hole. I've not logged onto this fella's website, so I can't comment on his sales program. If he is making claims that he can't back up, that is definitely not cool. But, he's on the right track regarding their efforts to produce a system that will result in an increase in hp and torque - it CAN be done. Based on the design of our stuff, I'm not sure he can accomplish a similar result within a straight tube, but that's his problem. More power to him if he can. All I know is that we've seriously increased the output of our engines, and exhaust tuning is a big part of those gains.

If nothing else works, pry the weather flap back to expose the key, then build up a small mound on the end of the key with your wire feed welder and there ya go. You might want to unplug the ignition switch from the wire harness just as a precaution. Use the same method with broken off studs, except place a nut over the hole and weld the stud to the nut. :-)))

Changing the sprockets with each new chain is an old wive's tale, no doubt propagated by a chain manufacturer.....(Sorta like the 3000 mile oil change) The only reason to change anything is if it's worn beyond specifications. And there are no hard and fast rules (lots of opinions, just like this one) because everybody rides differently. If the sprocket teeth are still straight and have a flat spot on the top, that's a good, usable sprocket. If you've gotten that many miles out of your chain, it's obvious that you don't abuse it. As such, the sprockets will more than likely be just fine. It's when the teeth are curved over at the top that the sprocket needs replacing. Honda recommends 90 wt. oil as a chain lube. 'Tis cheap and works just fine. I carry a nasal spray bottle filled with it - a lot cheaper than anything else and doesn't take up much space.

Is the rotor itself bent or just the carrier? If it's the carrier, just bend it back and go for a ride. It will take some patience, but I've done it on three of them so far with good results.

http://www.alsacorp.com/products/salesacce...omplete_spk.htm

Ya know, if you hard-headed fuckers who insist on referring to this gizmo as a CCT would call it by it's correct name, there would be no confusion as to WTF this gizmo is. Nor would you have to always include in parenthesis what it really is...... Also, having changed out 11 of these things at last count, there is no need to remove the right side fairing. All that needs to be done is to remove the lower mounting screws, the two rear-most upper screws, and then wedge a piece of 2 X 2 between the edge and the frame for access. It's plastic - it's flexible. And when you button it up, don't forget to insert the post on the fairing into the black plastic panel that surrounds the gas tank. Carry on.