speedygeezer

tks, Josh - but linky no worky.............

I have a customer who wants one, preferably in the $3500-4000 range. Might go higher if it's loaded. Also ok if someone knows of a wrecked one that is rebuildable. TIA.

Find an old piece of plastic with a crack in it - similar to the one you're dealing with if possible. Get your heat gun and heat the area round the crack about 2" back from each edge. Once bendable, practice moving the edges where you want them. You can reheat the plastic as many times as you want. Use a smooth wooden stick or a bondo spatula to maneuver the plastic and use a backing plate when smoothing out the area. The only problem with this method is that you'll probably wind up with wavy plastic with a crack in the middle of it. IOW, there ain't no easy fix for this one, Joe. Sorry.

Sold. 'Tis going to Grand Junction, CO.

My bike with Porter's titanium 16K miles plastic on it - only two nicks on it - NICE! Decent tires, new chain and sprockets, new oil, K&N air filter, '03 windscreen or Givi - your choice, custom leather seat on stock pan, Hyper-pro springs front & rear, just about to turn 43K miles, still smooth as silk. Needs nothing. It had 3500 miles on it when I bought it May 04 from the original owner. I crashed the bike three years ago - went off-roading, bent one fork tube and broke the other, put a small curve in the radiator and broke up some plastic. I replaced the forks, steering stem and front wheel, fixed everything else and put another 26K miles on it. Only reason for selling is I bought Porter's bike that was loaded with farkles. Mine is stock except for the springs and seat. $4200. It goes on ebay next Tue. I can help with delivery. If interested, PM me for photos. tks.

If I keep reading this thread does that mean my tires are cupped? :icon_think:

FWIW, the one I installed has the Hyperpro logo upside down......

Ya lost me on that one, Stan........mebbe you can 'splain it to me in ES.

"Hey,,, Joe,,where you going with that gun,,," What gun?

I guess I'd first make sure there is good flow from the gas tank, then re-check the needle to make sure it's not hanging up and that the float is set properly and isn't leaking. If it's getting good flow there, then the blockage is elsewhere and you'll just have to chase it down. Make sure the vent is not plugged. Also check that the throttle cable is not binding and that the slide/butterfly is opening and closing smoothly and completely. Never seen one of those quads so I'm kinda in the dark on this one, but a carb is a carb. Has the quad been sitting for a while? Bad gas? No mouse nest inside the exhaust? Air filter plugged? Good spark plug, wire and good spark? If it has a stator does it test ok? Pick-up coil ok? Before you removed the carb was the only complaint the stalling problem? Would it rev up properly? Did you test ride it to see how it ran? Good luck. Hi Stan. :-))

Thanks, Gents. Hopefully, it will bring enough to help finance a trip to Houston. C'mon, Porter - dump in a few bids for me, ok? :icon_whistle: Thanks, Gents. Hopefully, it will bring enough to help finance a trip to Houston. C'mon, Porter - dump in a few bids for me, ok? :icon_whistle:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...bayphotohosting

My OE battery - 2000 Bird - went tits-up last year. I figured it was a natural death. Next bought a cheapie at O'Reilley's. It died two months later, got it warrantied and that one also lasted but two months. Then bought a new YUASA, decided to reinstall my Bell RX 65 due to my recent citation, and went for a ride. Right away, the RX 65 flashes HI VOLTAGE. Eureka! We have a battery-killer on the left side of the Bird. Replace the RR and everything is back to normal. And here I was, blaming O'Reilley for selling me junk batteries.......... Lesson to be learned? When your battery goes dead, check the RR first. The end.

Did the previous battery go bad or did you replace it for some other reason? How old was it? Did the bike sit for long periods between rides? Did you have a trickle charger on the old battery? Were there any symptoms that caused you to replace the old battery?

Shinko 009. $154 for a pair. Delivered.

Or, you can put a couple of 12mm nuts on a bolt and break it loose that way.....

Place bike on centerstand, loosen all fasteners, lift front of bike far enough to slide a cement block under the header, place a 5/8" piece of plywood on the block to take care of the gap between it and the pan and you're good to go. Works for me.....and I've got one of those jacks, but I prefer the cement block due to its compact size.

"The swing arm pivot bolt has a funny locker." I've got one I can send to you. As for the inner socket, I just used a bolt with a 14mm nut screwed onto it and tack-welded it. That one isn't torqued very much - 11 lb-ft - and the main force is on the locknut - 47 lb-ft. Then tighten the pivot nut on the left side of the bike to 69 lb-ft. There is a specific installation procedure for this operation - if you don't have it, let me know and I'll send that along with the tool. PN 07908-4690003.

And you guys thought I had a problem. Are you insinuating that you don't?

Could be that English is not his native tongue.......yes? No? :icon_think:

Ok, here 'tis. :-) http://www.superbikeplanet.com/2008/Feb/080213k.htm

http://www.superbikeplanet.com/2003-Feb/030211b.htm Also, Honda Polish is now back in circulation according to Superbike Planet. Seems Honda had a supplier issue, got another one, and supplies should be back to normal.

We fix 'em all the time.

I'm on my 5th (or 6th) set of 009's. Only complaint is that the front tire cups out long (7500 miles) before the center of the tire is half-worn. It then becomes annoying because it won't stay balanced properly for any length of time. I used to run Avons, but the 009 produces 25% better mileage, not to mention a substantially reduced cost. I'm happy.

I've got this one and really like it. http://www.hightechspeed.com/products/UFOL...100XX/index.asp