partsman

Yes,pads can seize on guide pins,but usually the pistons will be sticking as well. Smack the calipers with a rubber mallet.No shit.This works to temporarily free the brakes until you squeeze them again.Or kicking has also worked for me too. Pull the pins and grease them,re-install and see what happens.If the brakes still bind,off to the nearest dealer or bike service shop or mechanically inclined buddy. I used to pick up bikes for service at the dealership I first worked at years ago.Kicked a lot of calipers.

Have any of you guys tried Plastex? It is awesome stuff,comes as a powder,add drops of resin to it and bam new plastic.Have used it many times,fixed cracks in the pool filter too,bonded a fairing tab back in place,made a few fairing tabs on another piece.Bonds all plastic and fiberglass,it really works.

It is a 14mm and I took a dremel to a socket.

Never seen NPG up here but I've used Liquid Performance (orange stuff)and both of my bikes run noticeably cooler.Engine is another good one,the two are pretty much equal and you will run cooler with them. I onced used water and water wetter for a season or two in my 600,ran identical to regular coolant.My 600 actually takes longer to warm up with LP,hey sometimes its cooler up here in the mornings.

I'd have a look under the tank to make sure all vaccuum lines are still connected.I can't remember how it's all laid out (winters are long in Canada) but since you changed the air filter maybe one came off.Check your plugs while your at it.

Iridiums - Pre-2001: NGK CR9EHIX-9. 2001-2002: NGK IMR9A-9H. 2003: NGK IMR9C-9H. All the above will do the same job,the latter 2 microscopically better as they are laser iridiums with a slightly finer electrode than the regular iridiums.They will all last a long,long time and are the exact same size and heat range.

I made one with a dremel and a cheap socket.

5000 rpm?They don't come to life until 7000,or maybe my excitement level is higher than yours. In all seriousness go down 1 tooth on the frt sprocket,it really won't do much for 0-5000 rpm but it just makes the bike so much more fun. And if your still running the steel tankership exhaust get rid of that too.Each muffler weighs 13 lbs,my whole system weighs 9.Better than ttrying to take weight off yourself!

I put the Wix 33032 in there last year,yes it was a liitle thicker but manged to stay in place just fine.Think i paid $5 for it and I was selling Honda parts then,thought dealer cost was too much. FYI you can use the Yamaha oil filters,same thing,cost 1/3 less.In Canada Honda MFJ filters are $17.95,Yamaha 5GH-13440-20 are $11.95.The 3FV-13440-00 and 5GH-13440-00 are spot on replacements for the discontinued MM9 Honda filter.The Kawasaki ones are the same too but can't remember the numbers,16097-1064,66,70?

Try Liquid Performance coolant,the orange stuff,both my bikes run cooler with it and no seal problems after 2 years.Little sticker on it says "#1 rated dyno coolant" didn't buy it for that but it does work.

The main reason you get more mileage out of the M3 is that they start out with .5mm more tread depth.And whatever reason Metzeler wants to claim.They are also a leeetle heavier for you drag racers.