porterb123

Justin, you beat me to it Jay you are one hairy shit

Remove the nut at the top of the rod and you'll have more room to run the U bracket up.

Actually John has his own web site with most of the same cool stuff if I remember correctly. Sure, Do you have those links 'cause I can't fine mine on my old HD from this one. John's site that is. I'd love to help keep him in business but even shipping that minor stuff over here isn't cheap. It was less that $20 for two bags of those from JC Whitney shipping and all. I don't think I'll get those rates from England. Now some of the other trick stuff I was looking fo Actually I think mine is too. I was going by what length it could handle not by how thick the stock was that could spin. That being said I think it's only a 6" too. I thought you had a mill/lathe setup? If not then cool 'cause we got the same basic thing then. I need tools/tooling (?) to go with mine. I saw a lot of the stuff on ebay. I don't know what will fit it though. Dameon Call me and swing by. I'll show you what you'll need 281 831-4148

Hey bud, it has been a while. I checked out Johns site & he doesn't carry them on there. Not much else for that matter. Seems like a great guy. I hope he sees an oppurtunity in the possible demise of Blackbirdspares to bring some of that merchandise to this shore. I'd get a few things that's for sure. Last I spoke to him though he seemed more excited about his new skate wheels than anything else at the time. Heck if I had 35k pounds lying around and the invetory was stateside I'd be interested in keeping it going. If only to have some of the best stuff on mine. I sure hope someone over there takes it over & keeps it going. I picked up a 12" Craftsman metal lathe @ Trader Village a couple weeks ago. Now I need you to come over and show me what to do with it. I don't have a clue other than make some neat little bits for the bikes and so on. I know I can do anything I put my mind to with it, just don't have a clue where to start. Dameon Seems like there is not enough time anymore since we bought the co. I work with. But, I can show you a few things. My lathe is only a 6". Let me know when you want to hook up.

Was up Dameon, haven't heard from you in a while John on this board had some of the fairing push type fasteners for sale. Johns Bike Bits. Post a list of what you want. Someone will point you in the right direction.

You do know that the XX has a hydraulic clutch and as such uses a line with banjo fittings :icon_duh: NBL

One more opinion. I start with the 1 3/8 slack and the sit on the bike. If the chain has no slack when I'm sitting on it, I loosen it till it has a little give. My thoughts are I don't want excess pressure on the countershaft sprocket and its associated seal and bearing

Thanks Northman. I'm gonna order

Joe, how close does the 18tooth 45 tooth sprocket set up get you to speedo dead on actual mph. I need to order a new chain and sprocket, before the Ozark trip. Is White Buffalo still the place to go. Right now I'm running a 44t rear and 17t front.Speedo is still 3mph optomistic at 70 according to my GPS I'm not worried about a lack of accelleration with this setup...Birds fast enough for me

I had as my previous bike an 83 1100F with a Weisco big bore kit. had some problems with the starter clutch slipping...lock tighting the 3 bolts helps....but the starter clutch is the weak link. I was very involved on the F forum years back and had all of the info on the GSX clutch build. I'm pretty sure it was the 1100 air cooled models. Turning down of the hub and case hardening was involved. Have you talked to Martin Hansen and Brian who actually built and sold these modified starter clutch setups. Brian who I believe bought Howies F built a few of these. I have an old 1100F clutch setup in my garage...has a small crack in it. I was going to build one myself...have a lathe and can case harden. If you have any questions, let me know....I was an F nut

Royal Purple....google it to find out more. I use 10W40 in my bike and car...smooth shifting. Cheap and good often do not go together

Send 'em to me. I'll make them fit and give you all required info. to do so after you procure your other set.

@ Barton-no it is a decided flat spot and not a "cutting the fuck out" so I think that part is ok. @ Porter-I will give what you suggested a look see and once I get the kit will plan a run down to Houston if the offer is open. Thank you kinley Offer is open....come on down...even have a spare room for overnight....been a looooong time since we had cumpny....if you know what I mean Dayam it Porter no broke back mountain lovin!!!!!!! fucko Oh well....have it your way. Offer still stands....your safe, my wife will be there

@ Barton-no it is a decided flat spot and not a "cutting the fuck out" so I think that part is ok. @ Porter-I will give what you suggested a look see and once I get the kit will plan a run down to Houston if the offer is open. Thank you kinley Offer is open....come on down...even have a spare room for overnight....been a looooong time since we had cumpny....if you know what I mean

Yes it seems to have a very decided "flat spot' ~ 5K till about ~65Kish. Hence also adding to my suspicions of it not having a jet kit in it. Kinley With stock carb setup and adding a full aftermarket exhaust, your bike would run lean and as such could use a jet kit. Could the previous owner have backed out the idle mixture screws to help with the lean condition?? If so, it is not unusal at all to have a heavey gas smell at idle. To check for lean or fat at 5k to 7.5k give the bike a little choke while riding at that rpm...if it speeds up and runs better, it is running lean....if it runs worse, then its fat. A jet kit is not hard to install. My bird is FI, but I have alot of experience with 80s honda CV type carbs. Ride down to Houston and we'll set you up

The only thing I'd be worried about would be the lubricating properties of water and water wetter alone without the glycol. and its effect on the water pump.

Just a side note, JB Weld tends to get soft and rather runny under high heat and could melt sitting up there on top of the engine! Go with Jeremy's block off plates and be done with it. Money well spent on well engineered, high quality product. Plus one . J is a great guy to deal with and the product is top notch. I used this kit because I like simplification and ease of maintenance...same reason I delinked the brakes

J. I did a hand drawing with dimensions of the TSR bracket and had it tranfered to AutoCad. I have that .dwg file here. I was going to get with Rickrad to make the bracket and offer a kit, but we never did . I maybe a few thousands off here or there as I measured with a dial caliper but it should be close. You interested in trying it out? I also have the line lengths around here somewhere

Thanks for the pics. Just for a little further explanation... The center caliper bore is not as deep as the side ones. If you look into the bores on either side, you cann see the hole(passage) where the fluid enters the side bores...these 2 holes are in line and the passage runs under the center bore. I just lined up the side passages and drilled a hole in the center bore to connect to the passage underneath. I had to special order the socket head bolts and cut them shorter, to use as plugs for the now not needed banjo connection point on the caliper...using left over washers from the delink.

Exact same setup with the following exceptions Lines made locally with Ti colored jackets 2 line rear setup.

I used the TSR bracket for the front slave mc. Used 2 lines from the front mc with 1 line direct to each front caliper. Drill 2 holes at the bottom of each center piston bore to recieve fluid from the outer pistons so as not to have to use a jumper line...its a simple to do mod. For the rear, I just used 2 lines. I had pics at one time

Thanks J. Printed this out for reference. Thanks to all I'm assuming this- means I should just go with the F4i lever? IMO, yes. Honda's levers for the 954 and F4i are different. From your above post, so are CTS/Pazzo. CRGs are the same for 954/F4i. (Edit: Used to be. I have a printout at work, of the CRG site where both the 954 and F4i share the same part number. This morning, checking the CRG site, they do not share a part number.) Ergo, for those of us with CB400SF master cylinders: OEM: CBR600F4i brake lever CBR1100XX clutch lever Pazzo: F4i brake lever XX clutch lever CRG: AN551 brake lever AN651B clutch lever J.

I have the 5/8 bore mc on mine after the delink, but if I remember correctly, had to order the lever with it, meaning the levers are not the same. It came from Howies source at TRS. I have wondered about which lever would fit if I break this one. Anyone know for sure??

Todd is correct. The spacer is solid alum, about 3/4 in. wide and about 3/8 in thick from memory. It fell out when I installed my frame sliders. Put a dab of weatherstrip adhesive on the frame side when you fab and install it...then it stays in place but can still be removed.

Shims do not wear much, they are under a bucket. The bucket rides against the cam lobe. Even with my old 1100F with the shims on top did not wear much if any. A tight valve will allow gases in the chamber to push back through the intake or exhaust at a time that they are not supposed to. Gas cutting of the valve or seats is the result....not much danger of valves and pistons colliding