porterb123

Install a new set of plugs and go out and do a WFO run in the lower gears and hit the kill switch, pull in the clutch and close the throttle. Pull the plugs and read them. That'll tell you if its too lean. Since you gave it choke and it did not help, your probably right about lean. You should only have to go up 1 to 2 main sizes if you are running stock exhaust and air filter. It could be electrical as well. Do you have good wires and new end caps. Check the resistance across the caps...its been a long time but I think it's like 5K ohms. Try closing down the air gap on the pulsars a few thousanths. The Hondas of that period had weak electrical systems. I replaced my stock system for a Dyna 2000 and there was a big improvement. I also used Accell coils and cut to fit high performance plug wires. My 1100F had an 1123 Weisco kit and needed this setup. Worked perfectly.

This has been discussed mant times, but TiForce Akrapovic

You are correct about pressure waves / scavenging and reversion. I did not get into tuning effects of length. You are incorrect about there not being a friction loss over a given length..it may be minimal, but it is there.

Most aftermarket canisters are a straight through design with internal perforations. As long as the one you are removing has a similar internal diameter to the replacement. you will be fine. The only difference will be that the shorter system will have less friction loss than a longer one.

Thanks. I already had stainless lines, so the feel is the same. Good thing is these look better chromed and now there is fresh fluid in all 3 master cyclinders. Next I need to replace the fork oil. I may sell my Corbin after having my stock seat done by Sargent. Are you gonna be in shape for dove season???

Kiwi, They are Russell Pro System 1 hose and fittings. You need nothing other than a fine toothed hacksaw or cut off wheel and 2 standard wrenches..7/16 and I believe 3/8. http://www.russellperformance.com/motorcycle/b-pro1.shtml line size is 3 and the banjos are 10mm. Make sure to get a 10 pack of replacement ferrules. Using a cut off wheel, I messed up a couple of ends and had to recut a half inch off...if you get the line hot, the braided stainless will flare out and you cannot get the nut on.

Right switch ass. had the plastic locating nub messed up so I installed a screw that would located the switch. Also had to turn the inside of the bar to accept the factory weight insert to accept the ThottleMeister bar end Left side bar had to be turned on the inside to accept the ThrottleMeister. Gilles are set up for proprietary threaded bar end weights. The correct I.D. is .635" Had to add 2" longer throttle cables from Motion Pro...60.00 bucks. Have to remove half the damn bike to get them changed out I ordered bulk brake line from Russell with threaded fittings and made up my own longer lines. Cost about 125 bucks for everything. If anyone is up to it, its cheaper than cut to fit lines and look good This is the clutch side mc end Heres the front brake mc end.. I have delinked previously Here's a view showing how far back the bars are on the right side Left side view Finished and washed showing the longer cables I waited for almost a month for all of the stuff to come in. I started with the longest 70mm risers that Gilles offered for the XX. They were not far enough back for me, so I ordered a set of 100mm risers that were for a Suzi model...doesn't matter , the risers all fit the same base ie that is the reciver end that attaches to the fork tube clamp, are machined exactly the same. Now I need a long ride to see how much more comfortable they are. Around the block feels good, getting more like a standaerd bike seating position now.

If I am not mistaken, when the pilot screws are located on the upstream side of the carbs(closest to the seat) they control air and would lean out the mixture when you back them out. When they are located downstream of the carb, they control gas and richen when backing out.

Never mind Motion Pro has the stock cables PN 02-0451 Pull cable 02-0464 Push cable I can order those and add plus__ inches to the part number.

I am in the process of installing a set of Gilles VarioBars and will use the 100mm risers. Does anyone have an old set of throttle cables that I can send off as a template for making up a longer set to save down time. I'll pay for shipping. I will also list what was required to make this work. Thanks

I had a Yoshi system and a PC2 with a custom map. Got 34 mpg or so . Ran well. Pulled the PC2 and been running without the PC for over a year now. I notice no difference in power/ heat issues or throttle response and now get 38 to 40 mpg. I,m spending money on Gilles VarioBars....my older back cares more about comfort

I have never had mine off or heard of this type of problem. Do the tank and the flange that mounts below have flat matching surfaces? If so, have you checked each surface with a straight edge? I would suspect the outer flange if you have tried two tanks. Where the bolts go, are the areas around each bolt hole flat or are they warped from the bolts being tightened? There have to be surface irregularities between the two parts that is not being sealed by the gasket. Do some close checking

The adjuster nuts should be tightened...backed out counter clockwise, after the alignment is set and the axle torqued...The bolts themselves are not necessarily adjusted equal...it's the marks on the swingarm that are supposed to line up with the Axle bracket?? Backing the adjuster nuts out after everything is set will help keep the wheel alignment set. Especially during hard accelleration, the chain is trying to pull the wheel forward.

Go to the important Useful threads section of this Forum and you will find what you are seeking

Hobi has grease nipples when He's on the XX. Metal pull tab end goes into the ass end first.

It will fit fine. Just did mine about a month back

Only way to tell is to try it and see. BUT, you will have made the engine flow more air and change the ratio of fuel to air to the lean side. For best performance you will need to rejet. Pilot screws are for idle and low rpm running. Needles are more for the midrange rpms and cruising. Main jets are for the high enf and WFO. All three circuits overlap and affect each other. You may get closer just doing pilot screw settings and shimming the needles, but not just right. If you are going to pull the carbs to adjust the needles, its only a little more work to change the jets. Get a jet kit....others may chime in as to which brand is better for the XX. My experience is with older air cooled Hondas

Is there an O'Reilly's in your area? I buy them locally for my 2000 model for 6 bucks a piece

Thanks for responding,i understand the vent tube to air cleaner box but im worried i am getting "blow by" by the amount of air being put out from the filler plug. If you want to keep your engine alive, never pull the oil plug while the bike is running. If you are concerned about blowby ( you should not be ) do a leakdown test and then you'll know without destroying your engine.

I've used a full set of EBC rotors for an 1100F and had no trouble with them

On the way back from TEXXT last year, I noticed an the front end wobble on decelleration with my Givis, including the top box...not much stuff loaded. Removed the Givis and cannot get the front end to wobble anymore...that maybe it

Joe, if it truely comes down to you getting nowhere, PM me. My uncle is pretty high up in Snap On

Not much to make it completely go away, but did you clean off the pistons real well. The grung ring build up on the piston will drag on the seal

Just for reference, I just got in a ZVM2 nickle plated 110 link from White Buffallo for 128.75

I'll look tonight, but seems like you can remove the locking rings on top and unthread the preload adjuster and remove the spring over the top.