2equis

Full coverage and a match!!! Start fresh with another XX, sometimes you need to know when to cut your losses.

Texas Mile Looks like fun

:icon_needpics:

Ridenow.com used to be AZMotorsports.com .... they suck

+1 Make sure you install a relay circuit to power the horn, it's fairly easy to fry the horn circuit with aftermarket horns.

What tire pressure are you running? Are the edges scuffed in? What tire did you have before? Roads aren't track tires but they are fairly predictable.

No, not really. Post smack around here and you'll get it back with both barrels every time. ...welcome back.

And just where in that statement did I mention cutting up the airbox on a ramair Blackbird?? Oh wait... I didn't :icon_wall: Here's a link that may help you: http://www.readingcomprehensionconnection.com/ 20 posts in over 3 years... way to contribute!

Someone I know took a scrollsaw to the airbox lid of their VFR750, cut a 6" hole in the top and re-jetted. Said he gained about 8hp. I'd remove the airbox and put K&N pod filters in before I'd hack it up with a saw.

+1 on the Seafoam. Inspect the plugs and the airbox. If the bike was sitting for a while, there is a strong chance something may of taken up residency in your airbox, restricting your airflow.

Flushmounts...

Ohlins at kneedraggers.com

I thought this stuff only applied to 2 strokes

Like he said.... water. Ride in southern Arizona for a summer and then go back to SoCal. You'll be amazed how "cooling" a little perspective can be.

Remember.... extra "watts" = extra heat and your headlight assembly is made of plastic.

+1 on the dremel tool. You DON't want to install it w/o a chain tool. Throwing a chain on the XX can cost you big money (if it doesn't kill you) Either spring $90 for the tool or take it to the shop.

Why??? Any performance issues? I get about 6000 miles out of a pilot road rear. I'm thinking that a pilot road rear and a pilot power front will wear equally and I'll get some "extra sticky" in the front.

I need to replace my Pilot Road front. I was thinking of trying a Pilot Power. What kind of mileage is everyone getting out of them?

+1 ...and welcome XX Manual page 7 There is alot of fudge factor built into these numbers but upgraded suspension and possibly running your tires at a higher PSI than norm are things to look into.

The term "horsepower" was invented by James Watt to help market his improved steam engine. He had previously agreed to take royalties of one third of the savings in coal from the older Newcomen steam engines[5]. This royalty scheme did not work with customers who did not have existing steam engines but used horses instead. Watt determined that a horse could turn a mill wheel 144 times in an hour (or 2.4 times a minute). The wheel was 12 feet in radius, thus in a minute the horse travelled 2.4 × 2π × 12 feet. Watt judged that the horse could pull with a force of 180 pounds (just assuming that the measurements of mass were equivalent to measurements of force in pounds-force, which were not well-defined units at the time). So: This was rounded to an even 33,000 ft·lbf/min. Others recount that Watt determined that a pony could lift an average 220 pounds 100 feet (30 m) per minute over a four-hour working shift. Watt then judged a horse was 50% more powerful than a pony and thus arrived at the 33,000 ft·lbf/min figure. Engineering in History recounts that John Smeaton initially estimated that a horse could produce 22,916 foot-pounds per minute. John Desaguliers increased that to 27,500 foot-pounds per minute. "Watt found by experiment in 1782 that a 'brewery horse' was able to produce 32,400 foot-pounds per minute". James Watt and Matthew Boulton standardized that figure at 33,000 the next year. Put into perspective, a healthy human can produce about 1.2hp briefly and sustain about 0.1hp indefinitely, and trained athletes can manage up to about 0.3 horsepower for a period of several hours. Most observers familiar with horses and their capabilities estimate that Watt was either a bit optimistic or intended to underpromise and overdeliver; few horses can maintain that effort for long. Regardless, comparison to a horse proved to be an enduring marketing tool.

Is there a value for rear wheel friction or brake drag etc.?

Everything I've read always gave a chain final drive a 10% loss between crankshaft and RW hp and shafties a 20% loss.

All "sportbikes" are about as aerodynamic as a barn door. That being said, "faster" comes down to HP and gearing. From what I've seen on this board and with my own XX the average RWHP on an XX is about 138. The shaft HP on the Beemer is about 162. The 20% shaft drive penalty brings the Beemer down to about 130 RWHP. My guess is the XX has a slight edge over the Beemer in top speed. FWIW

1st - Have the bike dyno tested with a gas meter. Sounds like the fuel system was the last thing touched before you started to have problems. 2nd - Have the bike compression tested. Yeah I know, you need to remove the plugs for that bit if the source of the mystery oil is not obvious I would start there.

According to the Hurt report is was determined that 77% of motorcycle accident hazards come from in front of the rider, while only 3% approach from the rear. What's interesting here is that motorcycle pipes direct the vast majority of sound backwards where the least danger is, so for loud pipes to be truly effective safety measures they would need to be pointed forward where the greatest danger lies.