srideaux
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Everything posted by srideaux
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In my own experience, after about three hours out in the country your back and wrist may speak to you in a painful way, the Helibars may help this.
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I must agree, in 04 I parked the Bird and bought a Busa. just to see how the other side lived. I gave it a year and sold it. I found it heavy feeling in traffic, we never connected the way I did with the Bird, I am 5'10" with a 28" inseam, with less than $1000. in up grades, including lowering the bike I can get 10sec. 1/4 mile times ( I am heavy and Old) Thanks to a Power Commander, and about two hours on a Dynojet chassis Dyno. one tooth smaller on the primary, and a trick Exhaust.
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Yes , if only!!
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To be honest, I haven't even looked at a can of Brake Fluid in 5-7 years, I will read up on the Motul RBF 660.......not to old to learn.
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Paul do what works best for you, but in the beginning don't take anything apart you cannot put back.
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these are the only ones I could find
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Forgive me gentleman, I was only sharing my personal experience and preferences with the LBC and synthetic Brake fluid, I am now 14 years into it with no regrets. I defer to your Expert opinion.
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Randy I agree most people like the LBS, personally I do not, I just feel I have better control in hard braking situations, I have never seen LBS in MotoGT or Superbike there is a reason for that. Anyway I am glade I caused some conversation. Good luck to you all
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Redbird....exactly the opposite is true, just because you read it on the internet does not make it so. spend more time on research
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OE brake lines deteriorate internally and Dot 3 draws moisture which create corrosion/oxidation which will accumulate at the the lowest point. There becomes internal Bypass, the clutch rod not getting full travel, remember these calipers are Aluminum they will corrode. look at the crap that first comes out when you begin to bleed the clutch line. DOT 3 bad....draws moisture creates problems DoT 5 Good........synthetic, much higher resistance to heat, does not accumulate moisture.
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Spiegler worked for me, about 10 years ago, replaced all rubber lines , I am 65 ( old School ) never trusted the LBS so I disabled it, I feel like I have better control over the bike now and yes definitely do the clutch line. after a thorough flush I recommend DOT 5 fluid I use a commercial vacuum device operated by compressed air. Gravity bleeding takes to long, and can leave air pockets. After 50 years, the brakes are no place to scrimp. Best of Luck
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Riding a CBX in Houston Traffic in the early 80's was like being in front of an open Furnace. A true love hate relationship. None of these bikes are fun in traffic, Its just a fact of Life. That bike will not overheat, will you ?
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I as a former Service manager am in complete agreement with Super hawk996.
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jon haney; I believe is exactly right, look at this way, you now have a winter project for those cold wet days you really cant ride. I hope you know the condition of the "extra Motor" LOL or its going to be a labor intensive and expensive winter, let us know how it turnes out Good luck
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This is a racing thin wall stainless steel equal length tube Tri Y pipe made by Micron Limited in England, with an optional Street Muffler. the US distributer told me they are out of business and this was in the last batch sent to the US.
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Power Commander is not a true plug and play, on my 2001 Bird I added a new PC and a Tri Y exhaust ( unfortunately you cant get these anymore) new iridium plugs, and block off plates.on a Dinojet chassis Dynamometer It was possible to achieve 163 rear wheel horse power. dropping my primary sprocket down one tooth got me to 10sec. 1/4 mile times. My Busa buddies just hate it. The Power Commander is well worth the investment.
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Aunt Zero and The Krypt Keeper are exactly right, this is the proper procedure by the shop manual, you did not say how many miles your bird has, but if you are getting a "slack " problem every 200 miles there is something else amiss, I would be looking at sprocket ware, wheel bearings, did someone leave out a spacer / washer the last time the wheel was off ?
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I believe you are on the right track Best of luck
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Knowledge is Power, you cannot be to safe, How many times have the police responded to Auto / Bike collisions. where the first thing the drivers have said " I didn't see Him " This device could have made a difference.
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OK SuperHawk 996 I C U answered your own Question.
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God Bless Honda and there consistency with Electrics, since 1966 I have owned and operated over 40 Hondas the first being a 1966 CL77 (305 Scrambler) my last one a 01 CBR1100 Blackbird, Weather you are working on a 1976 Civic, 66 CL 77, or 2016 Accord that yellow wire with the red stripe goes to the Neutral Switch. Black is always ground. The Color coding is almost always the same. Honda has always tried to make there Schematics, and electrical connectors uniform and easy to understand and user friendly, its part of what makes them Famous for Reliability.
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God Bless Honda and there consistency with Electrics, since 1966 I have owned and operated over 40 Hondas the first being a 1966 CL77 (305 Scrambler) my last one a 01 CBR1100 Blackbird, Weather you are working on a 1976 Civic, 66 CL 77, or 2016 Accord that yellow wire with the red stripe goes to the Neutral Switch. Black is always ground. The Color coding is almost always the same. Honda has always tried to make there Schematics, and electrical connectors uniform and easy to understand and user friendly, its part of what makes them Famous for Reliability.
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Congratulations on a job well done, There is always a certain satisfaction in doing it yourself.
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Not knowing any thing about the history of this truck, like a previous owner attempting to remedy the same problem by running a flush threw it and not getting all the flush out of the system,( or neutralizing it properly) this can cause thermostat failure, and over time eat the impellers off the pump.with this in mind rest and other contaminants can and will stop up the heater core. Were it my truck, I would replace the water pump with a new one, I have seen rebuilds that the impellers have come loose on the shaft not allowing proper circulation of coolant . replacing the thermostat is a no brainer. fill the system with water only, if the temp comes up and there is still little or no heat from the heater, next place is the heater (temp) control valves, are they operating properly, ? Last and certainly not least, the heater core is stopped up. they are not expensive to buy, and there are many sources for them. but the bitch is changing one out. Good luck, will be interested in what you find.
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Not knowing any thing about the history of this truck, like a previous owner attempting to remedy the same problem by running a flush threw it and not getting all the flush out of the system,( or neutralizing it properly) this can cause thermostat failure, and over time eat the impellers off the pump.with this in mind rest and other contaminants can and will stop up the heater core. Were it my truck, I would replace the water pump with a new one, I have seen rebuilds that the impellers have come loose on the shaft not allowing proper circulation of coolant . replacing the thermostat is a no brainer. fill the system with water only, if the temp comes up and there is still little or no heat from the heater, next place is the heater (temp) control valves, are they operating properly, ? Last and certainly not least, the heater core is stopped up. they are not expensive to buy, and there are many sources for them. but the bitch is changing one out. Good luck, will be interested in what you find.
